GT is gone and I couldnt be happier

[Quackfoo]

I had that problem with a car once, turned out to be the differential. The gears broke in weird and would resonate between 60-80 mph causing vibration. The only fix was replacing the gears. The tech thought it wasn't shimmed properly. (I'm referring to the original posters problem btw)

Good luck with the challenger, good looking car. I was planning on the Charger Scat Pack myself but I've decided to go another route next year.

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[mustang1]

It's a manual for the record.

so if the car is making a vibration from 2800-3000 rpms, what happens if you push the clutch in, and the engine RPM drops to 700 or whatever ? Or you are stationary, and rev the engine to 2800-3000 rpms?

 

[DJinAC]

Congrats on your new ride and good luck with it. Post some pics when you can.

 

[Genxer]

He did say from 80-100. There are plenty of reasons why that should be appropriate for warranty work.

As one example, the owner's manual instructs drivers to increase tire pressure when driving over 100.. so heck yeah. These cars absolutely should be stable at those speeds.

 

[Commbubba19]

I know it will never happen but really dealerships should invest in a rolling road / dyno to troubleshoot issues like this.

Good luck with the Challenger.

 

[xDUMPWEEDx]

Wht would I buy another Mustang after that ?

Yes. GT350 or '18 GT PP2.

Have fun with your Dodge

 

[Cobra Jet]

I’ve participated in that linked driveline thread and to those of us who have had to deal with it - on non-modified cars - it’s totally f’n aggravating to say the least.

My vehicle has been at the shop more times than I care to list here, however here’s all that’s been done to it - short of the MASSIVE amount of Ford Service Center labor hours AND data logging by the local Ford FSE AND the Ford Engineering Team who’s also been involved.

Road Force Balancing of wheels (numerous times)
Original driveshaft replaced
Original trans flange replaced
Original rear pinion replaced
Original Trans mount replaced
Numerous HOURS logged on vibration analysis machine
Original complete 3.55 rear diff replaced this June 2017
2nd driveshaft replaced this Aug/Oct (yes, car was at Ford Service for 2 mos for extensive field testing etc)
2nd driveshaft balanced (both front and rear)
Shims added to trans mount per Ford engineering direction
BOTH Ford SSM’s have been applied to my vehicle as well...

I have a freaking STACK of Ford Service work orders that is over 1” thick relating just to this problem.

I even put over $1k out of my own damn pocket for a brand new set of BFG tires and alignment in January 2017 thinking after all of the hard parts being replaced that the issue had to be tire related but was not - so my Pirellis were replaced at only 17k miles on them ... and the driveline vibe was STILL persistent. It’s NOT f’n tire related and it’s not a “normal characteristic of the vehicle” as Ford Service Centers are trying to push off on the consumer.

It’s BS and it’s an inherent problem across the platform from 2015 to the 2017 models - no joke about it.

Where does mine stand today?

Yea, so after 2 months in the shop, the vibe is back... and I’m in discussion with my Ford Rep for a possible replacement/buy back.

This is THE WORST new car purchase I’ve ever had, period. And this is coming from a true Mustang Enthusiast where I have owned (19) Mustangs to date - including this “vibrator” and my 94 Cobra. This 2016 has been in the shop more times than my entire 15yr ownership of my 94 Cobra!

The “Shaker” emblem/designation on the interior center stack is not in reference to the stereo system - is what the owner experiences while driving an S550 between 50-70mph...

 

[shelbywannabe]

I’ve participated in that linked driveline thread and to those of us who have had to deal with it - on non-modified cars - it’s totally f’n aggravating to say the least.

My vehicle has been at the shop more times than I care to list here, however here’s all that’s been done to it - short of the MASSIVE amount of Ford Service Center labor hours AND data logging by the local Ford FSE AND the Ford Engineering Team who’s also been involved.

Road Force Balancing of wheels (numerous times)
Original driveshaft replaced
Original trans flange replaced
Original rear pinion replaced
Original Trans mount replaced
Numerous HOURS logged on vibration analysis machine
Original 3.55 rear diff replaced this June 2017
2nd driveshaft replaced this Aug/Oct (yes, car was at Ford Service for 2 mos for extensive field testing etc)
2nd driveshaft balanced (both front and rear)
Shims added to trans mount per Ford engineering direction
BOTH Ford SSM’s have been applied to my vehicle as well...

I have a freaking STACK of Ford Service work orders that is over 1” thick relating just to this problem.

I even put over $1k out of my own damn pocket for a brand new set of BFG tires and alignment in January 2017 thinking it had to be tired related - so my Pirellis were replaced at only 17k miles on them ... and the driveline vibe was STILL persistent. It’s NOT f’n tire related and it’s not a “normal characteristic of the vehicle” as Ford Service Centers are trying to push off on the consumer.

It’s BS and it’s an inherent problem across the platform from 2015 to the 2017 models - no joke about it.

Where does mine stud today?

Yea, so after 2 months in the shop, the vibe is back... and I’m in discussion with my Ford Rep for a possible replacement/buy back.

This is THE WORST new car purchase I’ve ever had, period. And this is coming from a true Mustang Enthusiast where I have owned (19) Mustangs to date - including this “vibrator” and my 94 Cobra. This 2016 has been in the shop more times than my entire ownership of my 94 Cobra!

Well said. People that have no idea what the fuck they are talking about are always the first to chime in.
This is an absolute major problem with these cars and I also have had several Mustangs but I am done.
Not to mention my insurance went down $500 a year. Of its had known that I would have bought the Charger instead of the Mustang.
Good luck to you. Fill us in on the thread of what becomes of your case. You put up with the bull crap longer than I did.

 

[UAmach1]

I’ve participated in that linked driveline thread and to those of us who have had to deal with it - on non-modified cars - it’s totally f’n aggravating to say the least.

My vehicle has been at the shop more times than I care to list here, however here’s all that’s been done to it - short of the MASSIVE amount of Ford Service Center labor hours AND data logging by the local Ford FSE AND the Ford Engineering Team who’s also been involved.

Road Force Balancing of wheels (numerous times)
Original driveshaft replaced
Original trans flange replaced
Original rear pinion replaced
Original Trans mount replaced
Numerous HOURS logged on vibration analysis machine
Original 3.55 rear diff replaced this June 2017
2nd driveshaft replaced this Aug/Oct (yes, car was at Ford Service for 2 mos for extensive field testing etc)
2nd driveshaft balanced (both front and rear)
Shims added to trans mount per Ford engineering direction
BOTH Ford SSM’s have been applied to my vehicle as well...

I have a freaking STACK of Ford Service work orders that is over 1” thick relating just to this problem.

I even put over $1k out of my own damn pocket for a brand new set of BFG tires and alignment in January 2017 thinking it had to be tired related - so my Pirellis were replaced at only 17k miles on them ... and the driveline vibe was STILL persistent. It’s NOT f’n tire related and it’s not a “normal characteristic of the vehicle” as Ford Service Centers are trying to push off on the consumer.

It’s BS and it’s an inherent problem across the platform from 2015 to the 2017 models - no joke about it.

Where does mine stud today?

Yea, so after 2 months in the shop, the vibe is back... and I’m in discussion with my Ford Rep for a possible replacement/buy back.

This is THE WORST new car purchase I’ve ever had, period. And this is coming from a true Mustang Enthusiast where I have owned (19) Mustangs to date - including this “vibrator” and my 94 Cobra. This 2016 has been in the shop more times than my entire ownership of my 94 Cobra!

Is this on EB, v6 and GT's?

Stupid question but did they try different rims? A friend had a similar issue on a Camaro and it turned out to be something with how the wheels interacted with the wind at that MPH. He changed out the wheels on his SS to I think it was v6 wheels in his case, and the vibration went away. He had done similar in trying multiple tires and having them mounted/balanced multiple times and by different shops.

 

[shelbywannabe]

Is this on EB, v6 and GT's?

Stupid question but did they try different rims? A friend had a similar issue on a Camaro and it turned out to be something with how the wheels interacted with the wind at that MPH. He changed out the wheels on his SS to I think it was v6 wheels in his case, and the vibration went away. He had done similar in trying multiple tires and having them mounted/balanced multiple times and by different shops.

I had 4 different sets of rims on my car. Makes no difference
I had an ecoboost before the GT and didn't have this issue so I can say if others are affected. I know it's more prominent with manual transmissions

 

[Kong76]

so if the car is making a vibration from 2800-3000 rpms, what happens if you push the clutch in, and the engine RPM drops to 700 or whatever ? Or you are stationary, and rev the engine to 2800-3000 rpms?

If I push the clutch in around that rpm I feel a high pitched buzz in the pedal for about a second and it goes away as the rpms drop off along with the vibration in the car. Reving the car up to 3000 rpms in neutral produces the same kinda high pitch buzz sensation through pedals and floorboard as soon as I reach 2800. Now If i push the clutch in while taking it up to 3000 all is fine until that 2800-3000 range and the high freq buzz is felt again and there on up past 3500. Basically the vibration in the pedal does not go away all the way up the band from 2800 and gets more pronounced. This has been documented with the dealership. Normal characterisitcs for this platform.


This may be another sub issue with my clutch vs a driveshaft vibration. Hell I could have both. I do know at 80mph in sixth it mellows out.

 

[mustang1]

I had 4 different sets of rims on my car. Makes no difference
I had an ecoboost before the GT and didn't have this issue so I can say if others are affected. I know it's more prominent with manual transmissions

if you are driving 50 to 70 mph and there is vibration, and you clutch in, vibration is same or different ?

 

[shelbywannabe]

My vibration was different when I had my foot on the gas pedal versus when the car was coasting. It intensified when I let off the gas. But it was always there from 50 to 70 miles an hour usually worse around 60 to 65

 

[Nomadic]

OP's issue isn't truly isolated. There are several posts on here regarding the vibration issues. I don't blame him for dumping the car. I hope whomever test drives it on the used lot notices it before buying (or passing) on it.

Let's face it, he got a bigger car but with A LOT more low end grunt than the Mustang does. I've test driven his exact car a couple times. It's a torque monster. I'm sure he'll be quite happy.

 

[mustang1]

If I push the clutch in around that rpm I feel a high pitched buzz in the pedal for about a second and it goes away as the rpms drop off along with the vibration in the car. Reving the car up to 3000 rpms in neutral produces the same kinda high pitch buzz sensation through pedals and floorboard as soon as I reach 2800. Now If i push the clutch in while taking it up to 3000 all is fine until that 2800-3000 range and the high freq buzz is felt again and there on up past 3500. Basically the vibration does not go away all the way up the band from 2800 and gets more pronounced. This has been documented with the dealership. Normal characterisitcs for this platform.

can this be an issue with the clutch / flywheel assembly ?

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