GT 5.0 oil leak

[S140]

First things first, although your car may have been registered in 2018, it is actually a "17" in Mustang talk. An '18 has a completely different engine, known as the Gen 3. Your engine is a Gen 2.

OK, back on topic.. you may be able to diagnose this yourself? I'm not sure how mechanically minded you are, so I'll simplify how I explain this.. On top of each cylinder bank there is a large flat black plastic cover. These are the cam covers. With the engine cool or cold, run your finger around the edge of each cover. The joint where the bolt onto the engine should be dry.

If you find any wet areas, particularly around the rear this MAY be your problem.

If your dealer changed the sump gasket because he thought that was where the oil was coming from, it would have been apparent as there would have been oil down the sides of the sump and around the joint?

If he is now going to remove the starter to look for oil on the "flywheel", (Your car doesn't have a flywheel BTW, it has a drive plate, or flex plate) this may tell him nothing, as more often than not the oil doesn't get onto the flywheel if the rear seal is gone.

Another point to check, is the oil leaking from the cooler and blowing back onto the bellhousing?

One other point.. is this engine oil or transmission oil?

Hi - not very mechanically minded but thanks for the above, car is still with the dealer. They initially replaced the sump gasket as the oil was dripping along the rear half of the pan.
Update today that they have removed the starter and there is a trace of oil by the crank seal, they have cleaned it and will run it tomorrow and remove starter and check again to see if there are any further traces. I assume it will be the crank seal but they are trying their best to avoid having to replace it!

ford customer care now involved which has helped move them on.

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[S140]

That's the rear main. If your dealer is unable to ID it they are morons.

So update from the dealer - it is the rear main seal so transmission being removed tomorrow onwards….thank you all for your advice (they hadnt mentioned the rear seal until i did after your suggestion!)

 

[WildHorse]

So update from the dealer - it is the rear main seal so transmission being removed tomorrow onwards….thank you all for your advice (they hadnt mentioned the rear seal until i did after your suggestion!)

Glad to help in moving along the process.

 

[S140]

Hi all - so the rear main was replaced and that leak seems to have stopped, however started to notice a very small amount oil (wet) coming from the front of the engine, right behind the belt. Not so much so to drip on the drive way…will book it back in at the dealer but any ideas what it may so i can discuss it when i drop it off? Thanks

Thanks.

 

[V8_MOTOR]

I think if I recall, some of the bolts need to have RTV on them. They seemed to have put a fair amount on the oil sump but must have not put it on the bolts which require it.

If not, then the timing cover seal is likely on its way out. Unlikely to be the crank seal.

 

[S140]

I think if I recall, some of the bolts need to have RTV on them. They seemed to have put a fair amount on the oil sump but must have not put it on the bolts which require it.

If not, then the timing cover seal is likely on its way out. Unlikely to be the crank seal.

Thank you for the info

 

[Gloucesternige]

Hi all - so the rear main was replaced and that leak seems to have stopped, however started to notice a very small amount oil (wet) coming from the front of the engine, right behind the belt. Not so much so to drip on the drive way…will book it back in at the dealer but any ideas what it may so i can discuss it when i drop it off? Thanks

Thanks.

A common mistake made by lesser experienced parts changers that go by the name of technicians is that they put a bead of silicone around the edge of the sump and then oil leaks out past the bolt heads. The sealant must be put around each bolt hole and a line between each circle. then, as V8 Motor mentioned, any bolts which screw into open threaded holes, rather than blind holes, should have thread seal on them.
I have a You Tube channel, "nigels Land Rover channel" where I have done a bolt by bolt rebuild of the Ford engine fitted to it.. you could learn a lot from that.

 

[S140]

A common mistake made by lesser experienced parts changers that go by the name of technicians is that they put a bead of silicone around the edge of the sump and then oil leaks out past the bolt heads. The sealant must be put around each bolt hole and a line between each circle. then, as V8 Motor mentioned, any bolts which screw into open threaded holes, rather than blind holes, should have thread seal on them.
I have a You Tube channel, "nigels Land Rover channel" where I have done a bolt by bolt rebuild of the Ford engine fitted to it.. you could learn a lot from that.

Thank you not being very mechanical minded i would have thought the ford dealership would know what they were doing. Clearly not! Ive rebooked it in so see what they say. Thanks again

 

[V8_MOTOR]

Thank you not being very mechanical minded i would have thought the ford dealership would know what they were doing. Clearly not! Ive rebooked it in so see what they say. Thanks again

Don't let them fob you off if they try. They are going to have to remove the time cover again to do things right. A good few hours required.

 

[S140]

Don't let them fob you off if they try. They are going to have to remove the time cover again to do things right. A good few hours required.

Nice one thanks for the advice. Time to get ford customer care involved again.

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