Grinding When Letting Off Clutch

[geep81]

I went for a drive today for lunch... and I have to admit that I'm starting to get a bit bummed about all of this. Any shift over about 5k RPMs is just no fun... I either have to hold it forever and slow down or hear this noise.

The rev hang is a bit of a buzzkill. It does get better once the car warms up.

The Ford Performance kit for 18-20 GTs solved this issue for me FYI, it adjusted the rev hang among other things and it just feels right now. If you're looking for a fix in the future.

I drove for 2 years with the rev hang from the factory, you do adjust to it.

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[geep81]

Has anyone else experienced this? I've searched and found a couple of other similar threads - but haven't really seen any resolution (and it's not clear if they had the same issue).

I'm "lucky" enough to have gotten to order a '19 and '20 GT both stick. Both from brand new never did anything like this. I think you should keep pressing your dealer to fix the issue rather than make you suffer.

 

[friedmud]

I'm "lucky" enough to have gotten to order a '19 and '20 GT both stick. Both from brand new never did anything like this. I think you should keep pressing your dealer to fix the issue rather than make you suffer.

Thanks for both of your comments. I do think I'll get the Ford Performance kit eventually. Many people have recommended it for reducing rev-hang. It invalidates the 5-year warranty, right? But you get to keep the 3-year? Trying to decide if that's worth it.

Yeah - I really want to go test drive another one so I can see if it does it at all. If it doesn't, then I'm going to press hard for this to get fixed.

 

[friedmud]

I meant and should have said too fast for how much you're sending it. If it's full send, and shifting at redline, of course you can blast through the gears. When you do a second gear pull and then shift to third staying off the gas, if you let out the clutch too fast while RPMs are high, it makes the described sounds/vibrations till they nominalize. I did this a few times when I first got the car and have since learned how to avoid it. Maybe something is broken or maybe not. I believe 98% of the MT-82 issues are people not bothering to learn how to drive it. It operates differently than any other manual transmission I've driven over the years.

Interesting - so you think that this may be happening because I'm currently "babying" it? That would be fascinating.

I'm planning on an oil change soon - after which I plan to open it up a little more. Will be interesting to see what happens then.

 

[CorvZ061]

My money is on the dual mass flywheel. I had a LT1 vette several years ago that would make a similar kind of noise occasionally on a high rpm shift. it would also do it starting off in first launching the car at the strip.

 

[geep81]

Thanks for both of your comments. I do think I'll get the Ford Performance kit eventually. Many people have recommended it for reducing rev-hang. It invalidates the 5-year warranty, right? But you get to keep the 3-year? Trying to decide if that's worth it.

Yeah - I really want to go test drive another one so I can see if it does it at all. If it doesn't, then I'm going to press hard for this to get fixed.

i didn’t read anything in what I bought saying you lose the 5 year. Only that you keep the 3 year if you have the right people install it.

 

[ice445]

i didn’t read anything in what I bought saying you lose the 5 year. Only that you keep the 3 year if you have the right people install it.

It does invalidate the 5 year on powertrain components related to the tune.

 

[friedmud]

It does invalidate the 5 year on powertrain components related to the tune.

Thanks for the clarification ice.

I’m probably not worried about the 5 year… but keeping the 3 year is important.

Definitely want to get to the bottom of the current issue before doing anything though!

 

[ice445]

Thanks for the clarification ice.

I’m probably not worried about the 5 year… but keeping the 3 year is important.

Definitely want to get to the bottom of the current issue before doing anything though!

Not the easy answer you'd probably prefer, but the trans has to come out and the clutch needs to be pulled to see what's going on

 

[geep81]

It does invalidate the 5 year on powertrain components related to the tune.

Is there somewhere I can read more about that? I would expect them to not service the air box/throttle body and the like since that was changed, but things like engine components/etc?

I read everything I could find and just didn't see that stated anywhere so I am just curious!

 

[Andrew@Lethal]

MT82s are notorious for having problems. Bring it back to your dealer for warranty and have them fix it. The most common solution is to get a Stage 1, 2, or 3 Calimer built transmission.

 

[CorvZ061]

MT82s are notorious for having problems. Bring it back to your dealer for warranty and have them fix it. The most common solution is to get a Stage 1, 2, or 3 Calimer built transmission.

Why would he need a built trans for a clutch issue? The video shows the trans in gear with no noise, no pop outs. Noise presents itself when releasing the clutch. Indicative of a DMF failure.

 

[Sivi70980]

Interesting - so you think that this may be happening because I'm currently "babying" it? That would be fascinating.

I'm planning on an oil change soon - after which I plan to open it up a little more. Will be interesting to see what happens then.

I broke mine in per the manual and have all the ticks and rattles and engine sounds people complain about. Car runs perfectly fine and I'm not worried about those sounds anymore. If I could do it again, I wouldn't stress the babying it at all. But it's completely up to you on how you proceed.

The scenario I'm trying to explain is the light turning green and you drive off safe and sane. You hold it in second gear and maybe gas it a little to appease your ears and you're now at the speed limit. You shift into 3rd but don't want to go any faster so you're light on the throttle. The RPMs are higher than they need to be for the next gear and takes an extra second to fall but you engage the clutch anyway. You can hear and feel the vibrations in the clutch pedal as it nominalizes your engine speed with your gear speed.

If you shift with the intent on maintaining similar acceleration, the sound shouldn't be there. I did, however try different way to make the sound in my car last night and by engaging the clutch too quickly even under "normal" shifting, I can get it to make the sound if only briefly.

I am no mechanic and I really hope nothing is wrong with your car. These are just my experiences. I stand firm on spending more time driving it and learning what it likes.

 

[friedmud]

I broke mine in per the manual and have all the ticks and rattles and engine sounds people complain about. Car runs perfectly fine and I'm not worried about those sounds anymore. If I could do it again, I wouldn't stress the babying it at all. But it's completely up to you on how you proceed.

The scenario I'm trying to explain is the light turning green and you drive off safe and sane. You hold it in second gear and maybe gas it a little to appease your ears and you're now at the speed limit. You shift into 3rd but don't want to go any faster so you're light on the throttle. The RPMs are higher than they need to be for the next gear and takes an extra second to fall but you engage the clutch anyway. You can hear and feel the vibrations in the clutch pedal as it nominalizes your engine speed with your gear speed.

If you shift with the intent on maintaining similar acceleration, the sound shouldn't be there. I did, however try different way to make the sound in my car last night and by engaging the clutch too quickly even under "normal" shifting, I can get it to make the sound if only briefly.

I am no mechanic and I really hope nothing is wrong with your car. These are just my experiences. I stand firm on spending more time driving it and learning what it likes.

I hear you - I will definitely post back once I can drive it a bit harder (snow on the ground for the next week - so no chance of even getting to drive it).

 

[ice445]

Is there somewhere I can read more about that? I would expect them to not service the air box/throttle body and the like since that was changed, but things like engine components/etc?

I read everything I could find and just didn't see that stated anywhere so I am just curious!

Thats just how it's been explained to me on here. It conserves the rest of your 3/36 including power train, from when the in service date began. But after that, anything the tune modifies is on you.

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