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ArrestmeRed

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I'm replacing the stock sway bars with Steeda's front and rear sway bars that are adjustable.
I'm replacing the stock sway bars with Steeda's front and rear sway bars that are adjustable.
I think you misunderstood. What I'm talking about is the sway bar end links that connect the sway bar to the front strut and rear control arm. Whiteline makes a good set. Front and rear are sold individually.

Front:
https://whitelineperformance.com/products/klc179-link-kit
Rear:
https://whitelineperformance.com/products/klc198-link-kit
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gone_n_60

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Biggsy

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I second the end links for two reasons…
1. The OEM ones up front bend under hard use.
2. You are able to adjust the lengths to remove preload from the sway bar.

I stick have my stocks on the rear as those are not susceptible to bending.
 

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Great list, sir! That should stiffen up the car quite nicely.

If it's not too late, I would recommend the Steeda strut tower cutting tool so you can get all the front camber you will ever need. I think it's $70

I'm currently maxed out on front camber at -2.8 and I'm feeling the car wants a bit more. After I cut my strut tower holes, I'll be looking to do -3 front and -2 rear.
Do you really think -0.2 degrese will make a difference enough to make it worth it to cut the strut towers. My camber without cutting is -3.2 because with the Ohlins the top of the strut pass bellow the opening. Though my tire temps suggest that -3.2 is to much front camber for my track with 305 front tires and the wear pattern of the tires suggest the same. I would lower the camber if I can but I can't because I'm not able to clear the fender otherwise and I do like my fenders you know.
 

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Do you really think -0.2 degrese will make a difference enough to make it worth it to cut the strut towers. My camber without cutting is -3.2 because with the Ohlins the top of the strut pass bellow the opening. Though my tire temps suggest that -3.2 is to much front camber for my track with 305 front tires and the wear pattern of the tires suggest the same. I would lower the camber if I can but I can't because I'm not able to clear the fender otherwise and I do like my fenders you know.
Will it make a difference? I don't know. The inconsistent driver behind the wheel plays a larger role in this.
Is it worth it? Sure, why not. It's cheap to do, has no downside, and I'd rather have the ability to run -4 camber if I wanted to than be physically limited to -2.8
 

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gone_n_60

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Hmmm should I rename this thread, Camber Fight - to cut or not to cut!?
:giggle:
 

WItoTX

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Hmmm should I rename this thread, Camber Fight - to cut or not to cut!?
:giggle:
No because you should just cut it. All the cool kids are doing it. The Steeda tool is a very clean cut too, most folks would never notice it's cut if you smooth the rough edge and paint the bare metal.

Also, since you have a magneride car, do not get the Steeda adjustable end links. The grease zerk hits the mag ride wire. I learned the hard way.

And yes, you can just remove the zerk. Or get the whiteline and not worry about it.
 

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Will it make a difference? I don't know. The inconsistent driver behind the wheel plays a larger role in this.
Is it worth it? Sure, why not. It's cheap to do, has no downside, and I'd rather have the ability to run -4 camber if I wanted to than be physically limited to -2.8
My point is that is not about a want but actual pyromether / infra red temp monitor kind of thing. Idea of camber is to maximise contact patch in corners and in the process improve grip. Not always more is better you know.
 

Ewheels

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My point is that is not about a want but actual pyromether / infra red temp monitor kind of thing. Idea of camber is to maximise contact patch in corners and in the process improve grip. Not always more is better you know.
Completely agree.
My point is that the factory camber for *most* people is not enough and need more, hence why products like these even exist at all.

I'll leave it at that. I'm not getting sucked into yet another one of these back and forth argumentative pissing matches on this forum. Do what makes sense for you and your car. Have a nice day everyone.
 

TeeLew

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Do you really think -0.2 degrese will make a difference enough to make it worth it to cut the strut towers. My camber without cutting is -3.2 because with the Ohlins the top of the strut pass bellow the opening. Though my tire temps suggest that -3.2 is to much front camber for my track with 305 front tires and the wear pattern of the tires suggest the same. I would lower the camber if I can but I can't because I'm not able to clear the fender otherwise and I do like my fenders you know.
Throw out some temp/pressure/wear numbers. I'm curious what you're seeing and what it might tell us.
 

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gone_n_60

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No because you should just cut it. All the cool kids are doing it. The Steeda tool is a very clean cut too, most folks would never notice it's cut if you smooth the rough edge and paint the bare metal.

Also, since you have a magneride car, do not get the Steeda adjustable end links. The grease zerk hits the mag ride wire. I learned the hard way.

And yes, you can just remove the zerk. Or get the whiteline and not worry about it.
oh well in that case, hand over the cutter. Where do you get the paint tho?

On the end links etc. wtf is zerk? whiteline? I know about white lines on a mirror, avoid! Just glad a resisted the upsell.
 
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gone_n_60

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Completely agree.
My point is that the factory camber for *most* people is not enough and need more, hence why products like these even exist at all.

I'll leave it at that. I'm not getting sucked into yet another one of these back and forth argumentative pissing matches on this forum. Do what makes sense for you and your car. Have a nice day everyone.
About points.... What did the triangle say to the Circle? You're pointless!
I appreciate your thoughtful observations and comments fwiw. I'm still in Mustang track grade school and advice from the college Juniors and Seniors is welcome.
 

WItoTX

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oh well in that case, hand over the cutter. Where do you get the paint tho?

On the end links etc. wtf is zerk? whiteline? I know about white lines on a mirror, avoid! Just glad a resisted the upsell.
I have an oxford white car, so internet. I would imagine that Orange is a bit harder to find haha...but find your paint code, and Google it. Paint code I think is on the door somewhere. Again, i think you can google how to find paint code.

Grease zerk? It's where you pump in the grease to the joint. It's the knob in this photo.

1677522215009.png
 

VictorH

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Are you sure you only got 0.2 degrees more with the opening of the strut top? I got an extra 0.5 degrees and I'm otherwise all stock except for camber plates. Picture, of driver's side, of 1 line short of max. adjustment (by the pointer you can't see in this image), works out to -3.4 degrees.

1677526848158.png
 

bnightstar

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Throw out some temp/pressure/wear numbers. I'm curious what you're seeing and what it might tell us.
My local track is very flat CCW track which mean that the FR tire is the one that is used the most. With -3.2 camber on 305/30/19 tires. I was seeing inside temperatures way more than the middle or outside (don't have the actual temps handy). Which pointed that a bit less camber will be ideal. However this is the lowest number possible to get the 305 under the front fender on the Mustang I spend like an hour trying to make it with less camber than that it's not possible. So yeah probably on stickier tires you may need more but I'm guessing the need for more camber will be offset by the way stiffer springs that you will have to run anyway. Ether way is just my observation on my car and track with my very limited driving. Regarding wear patterns I can't say much as I only have around 20 laps on this tires so they look almost new.
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