Good Ford fluid service recommendationsions

nick20s

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Does anyone here know this guy and his recommendations for Mustangs? He seems to be a great knowledgeable Ford technician.

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1004ron

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He's good and I agree with his recommendations, but there's very little in that video that pertains to the Mustang.
 

1004ron

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https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2015-v6-auto-diy-transmission-oil-filter-change.115392/

Here's my schedule.

50K miles - Transmission oil drain and fill, with new filter - new spark plugs

5K miles - Full synth oil and filter

15 to 20K miles - Engine air filter

Rear differential - unlike the AWD, this diff doesn't have clutches so oil should be good for life, but will change it for a top grade at 100K miles

Brake fluid - will change at 5 years

Coolant - will change at 5 years

Power steering is electric - no maintenance.

Cabin air filter - annually
 

VooDooDaddy

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THIS^^^^^
 

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Muff Muff

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Mileage/time schedules are ok for fluids you can't check, but for those you can, nothing beats visual inspection. If it hasn't been 3-5 years yet, but your brake fluid is visibly dark, change it. If it hasn't been 5k miles, but your oil is black, change it. It's exponentially easier and cheaper to change fluids than components.

First post in a long time, feels good to be back. I must say, I have the new Supra to thank for rekindling my interest in my car!
 

VooDooDaddy

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If it hasn't been 5k miles, but your oil is black, change it.
The color of engine oil has nothing to do with it's quality. A recent oil change using new oil with only a few hundred miles and 3-4 heat cycles will turn dark very fast, but it will still be very, very good oil.

I have sent oil samples of my used Mobil 1 5w-40 to BlackStone labs where the oil was as black as coal with only 4K miles on it, and the lab stated that my oil change interval could be easily be stretched out to 7.5K - 8K miles based on their analysis.
 

Muff Muff

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The color of engine oil has nothing to do with it's quality. A recent oil change using new oil with only a few hundred miles and 3-4 heat cycles will turn dark very fast, but it will still be very, very good oil.

I have sent oil samples of my used Mobil 1 5w-40 to BlackStone labs where the oil was as black as coal with only 4K miles on it, and the lab stated that my oil change interval could be easily be stretched out to 7.5K - 8K miles based on their analysis.
The color of your sample vs the color of the sample after just a paper chromatography test can vary greatly, that's why you always go by the color on the paper towel after you wipe the dipstick.

Not trying to start an argument, but changing fluids is never a bad idea. If you're unsure of where you are in your interval, just change it anyway.

I'm actually curious as to what they tested your oil for. I work in an environmental laboratory, so I have somewhat of an idea of what you'd want/not want to see in an oil sample for this application. Is there any way you could post your results?
 

tokuzumi

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In any vehicle that has an oil life meter, I go by that. In my experience this is about a 5500-6000 mi interval. Local transmission shop recommends a flush every 30k miles.
 

boB

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The color of your sample vs the color of the sample after just a paper chromatography test can vary greatly, that's why you always go by the color on the paper towel after you wipe the dipstick.

Not trying to start an argument, but changing fluids is never a bad idea. If you're unsure of where you are in your interval, just change it anyway.

I'm actually curious as to what they tested your oil for. I work in an environmental laboratory, so I have somewhat of an idea of what you'd want/not want to see in an oil sample for this application. Is there any way you could post your results?
On large machinery, where an oil change can cost $1000+ and take an expensive machine out of service for awhile, the owners often use oil analysis. When it is 10 quarts, a $6 filter, and down time has little to no cost, I agree: change it if there is any question. Oil analysis can tell us if the air filter is working properly, changing oil won't reveal that (but a new air filter is probably less $$ than analysis).
 

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I'm actually curious as to what they tested your oil for. I work in an environmental laboratory, so I have somewhat of an idea of what you'd want/not want to see in an oil sample for this application. Is there any way you could post your results?
If you just want to see what they test for, you can find a sample report on Blackstone's website. They test for physical properties of the oil, about a dozen elements (contaminants, wear products), and optionally they will test for the remaining active additives (TBN).
 

Grimmer

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In any vehicle that has an oil life meter, I go by that. In my experience this is about a 5500-6000 mi interval.
+1. When new, I called the Ford Customer service to ask about break-in and first oil change since the manual didn't say much. She pretty much said that the factory doesn't use a special break in fill and that I should change the oil when the car tells me to. It was on target for a very long interval and I couldn't bring myself to push that far on the first change so I changed it early.

My oil change clock so far has been on target for a change every year. For example, I checked the oil life remaining and it was at 15%. In the next month I only drove to work and back a few times and ran some errands here and there. These were not short or harsh trips. About 250 miles worth and it had dropped to 7%... One more month after that would have put me right to 1 year from the last change.

1 month is about 8% of 1 year, hence the drop from 15% to 7%. However 250 miles is only about 2.5% of the max number of miles I've seen the clock run between changes.

When new I was driving it more often, as one would imagine. The first oil change was early (about 50% remaining) but it was on target for a 10,000 mile interval. Every change since then I have not driven it enough to reach 10,000 miles in less than 1 year, but the clock has always called for a change at 1 year (same time as when I change to the winter tires). Although I don't run it to 0%, so I suspect it will creep forward a bit over the coming years.

Incidentally, the owners manual calls for a change at least every 10,000 miles or every 1 year. I'm convinced the clock is programed to enforce this. Since I don't run harsh miles it is going the maximum each time. For illustration purposes, let's say the clock gives you 36,500 points (chosen for easy math)... Each day the clock will subtract 100 points regardless of driving. If you make some short trips, pull hard a lot (think trailer or race track), or drive more than the estimated daily allowance it will subtract some extra points. When you get near 0 points remaining it is time to change the oil. That way it automatically enforces the 10,000 miles and the 1 year 'policy' and can also account for harsh driving conditions.
 
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1004ron

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In any vehicle that has an oil life meter, I go by that. In my experience this is about a 5500-6000 mi interval. Local transmission shop recommends a flush every 30k miles.
One concern I have using the "intelligent Oil Life Meter" is the fact that it's configured based on the manufacturers quest to publish the lowest annual operating and maintenance figures in the highly competitive market, so obviously its taking it close to the limits of most lubricants.

My Ford Edge meter would have me doing oil changes at around 10K miles (I drive conservatively) - oil changes on it are done with +- 50% on the indicator.

At the time I switched my vehicles to full synthetic it cost a significant amount more than the dino oil, but these days synth is relatively cheap and I don't see much dino oil on the shelves in my area.
The synth oil and filters are cheap enough for me to do my oil changes at around 5K miles, which it long before one expects any degradation of the oil, and this makes it pointless for me to get lab samples.
 

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Also, since the change interval is so long, don't forget to check the oil level at least when it passes 50% oil life remaining. My car consumes about 1.5 quarts over 10,000 miles. I usually add 0.75 to 1 quart around half way through to keep the oil level in the cross hatched area of the dipstick.
 

Grimmer

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... so obviously its taking it close to the limits of most lubricants...
I was also concerned about the long interval, so I have tested every oil change except the first one. The second one I tested at multiple mileage intervals to see and establish a baseline and to approach the service limit without going over.

Every analysis has shown plenty of remaining additives and has come with the recommendation that I could easily stretch the change interval longer, even the ones at 8,000 miles. I suspect that part of the reason they can go for such a long interval is the 8 quart capacity, since it brings lots of additives to the mix.

Ford may be pushing for a competitive maintenance schedule but based on what I've read/learned and my experience with the analysis of my own oil (which I guarantee was less extensive than Ford's), I'd say they have compensated/accounted for the long interval.

... to do my oil changes at around 5K miles, which it long before one expects any degradation of the oil, and this makes it pointless for me to get lab samples.
You are absolutely correct. Changing at 5,000 miles is well within the safety zone and you probably don't need oil analysis with regard to remaining service life of the oil.

I think it comes down to individual peace of mind. I was nervous about the recommended long intervals until it "proved" it to myself. Now I'm OK with the 1 year interval (so long as I remember to top off in the middle).

Oil changes are cheap, peace of mind is priceless. Everyone has to decide what they are comfortable with for themselves and their own car.

One additional note about the oil analysis... Blackstone tests for more than just the oil's condition/remaining service life (in fact the remaining TBN is an optional test, which I now skip). Their base analysis also tests for contaminants like the products of engine wear, coolant, fuel, silicone (indicative of mechanical issues, failing gaskets, poor combustion, air filter failure), etc. I test once per year (which just happens to be every oil change for me). Do I need to? Probably not, but $30 per year is cheap peace of mind and as an added bonus I get documented evidence of impending engine trouble should I ever need to argue for warranty repair.
 
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