Going through O2 sensors....

80FoxCoupe

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Upstream driver side (bank 2) has failed four times this year. I do have O2 extensions on driver side only. Could this be the reason? I run pump 93 exclusively with octanium every now and again. Doesn't seem to be any relationship between failures and octanium. Anyone using extensions with no failures? What brand extensions? Mine are the one supplied with ARH headers.

 
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80FoxCoupe

80FoxCoupe

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Am I the only one going through O2 sensors?
 
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I believe my issue is with the extension as I only run an extension on driver side.
 

engineermike

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I vaguely remember dustin whipple one time posting that the o2 extensions are all non-oem sourced (aka reverse-engineered) and don’t always work right. I think this led to an engine failure. Seems like the recommendation was to cut and splice (solder and shrinkwrap, NOT butt connectors) the stock wires.
 


ugstang17

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^^^ This would be accurate. The connections can and have been known to cause problems. Also if OP is purchasing cheap replacements this could add to that issue. I agree that the octane booster is NOT a factor because it would be effecting both sides at some point by now if it were a factor. One way to know for sure would be to move the bank one sensor to bank 2 and install the new sensor in bank 1. If bank 2 fails again you have proven your theory to be valid and fool proof. Better to solder and heat shrink (if one knows how to properly solder) longer wires in than to use the extensions.

Never go cheap/substitute on any type of sensor be it O2, cam sensor, crank trigger sensor, etc. Cheap is as cheap does in these cases. Too often I have seen a cheaper replacement create intermittent or premature failure that ends up leading the troubleshooter on a rat chase only to come back to realize the problem came back because of inferior components. Cheap sensors that barely or don't meet OEM design specs can fail under warmed up temp conditions and then begin working again when they cool off. If one is lucky they just simply fail very premature permanently.
 
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80FoxCoupe

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^^^ This would be accurate. The connections can and have been known to cause problems. Also if OP is purchasing cheap replacements this could add to that issue. I agree that the octane booster is NOT a factor because it would be effecting both sides at some point by now if it were a factor. One way to know for sure would be to move the bank one sensor to bank 2 and install the new sensor in bank 1. If bank 2 fails again you have proven your theory to be valid and fool proof. Better to solder and heat shrink (if one knows how to properly solder) longer wires in than to use the extensions.

Never go cheap/substitute on any type of sensor be it O2, cam sensor, crank trigger sensor, etc. Cheap is as cheap does in these cases. Too often I have seen a cheaper replacement create intermittent or premature failure that ends up leading the troubleshooter on a rat chase only to come back to realize the problem came back because of inferior components. Cheap sensors that barely or don't meet OEM design specs can fail under warmed up temp conditions and then begin working again when they cool off. If one is lucky they just simply fail very premature permanently.
I have always ran motorcraft units. The other day, I did exactly as u described. Driver failed. Took good pass side unit and installed it on driver side. Took new unit and put in pass side.
 
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80FoxCoupe

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Any info on f150 O2? I hear the wiring is longer???
 

ugstang17

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I have always ran motorcraft units. The other day, I did exactly as u described. Driver failed. Took good pass side unit and installed it on driver side. Took new unit and put in pass side.
Then sounds like you are right on the money. You may wish to holler at BA Motorsport and see if he agrees with soldering an extension in would be a good resolve or if there is a superior extension that may be less likely to cause problems so you don't have to compromise the factory harness. Are you getting a lean/rich code a failed code or a failed heater code or what out of curiosity?
 
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80FoxCoupe

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On startup bank 2 will go to 1.99 then 0.00, again only bank 2 driver upstream. Totally random when it happens. Once it's dead, it's dead. Another 60bux.....
 
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80FoxCoupe

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That's an idea.
I think if it were me I would extend it on the sensor side of the plug. That way you can do it on a bench and also not hack up the engine harness.
What about f150 sensor??
 

ugstang17

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That's an idea.

What about f150 sensor??
That would have to work. Coyote v Coyote. If the hraness is longer that sure beats the crap out of soldering and sure beats the crap out of an extension.
 

Grim12

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I'm going through them too. First it was the passenger side upstream one.
Replaced that, then the driver's side upstream went out.
Replaced that, then the passenger side went out again.
All within a couple of days.

Can a tank of bad gas cause this? At 7k miles and all was fine til now.
 

 
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