Going Ported Cobra Jet manifold on my 2018 Mustang GT A10

[Ricker]

The 120mm insert is supposed to smooth out the airflow for a better idle.

What RPM is your idle set at?

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[Sammy123]

It's been fluctuating so much lately that I'm not entirely sure what it's supposed to be "normal".

In neutral, or when parked, it does stabilize to just over 1000rpms, and after some time it will lower to just below while remaining stable (not fluctuating).


One thing I didn't ask before. How is your connection between the tube itself and the lid? On mine, neither will go inside the other, so I have to make the ends "kiss" at the edges and clamp down the silicon coupler. This is true for both the airbox side and throttle body side, neither will side into either, the silicone coupler is what holds them together. The way I do it is:

Slide the coupler onto the throttle body.
Slide the tube into the coupler, and push until it touches the throttle body end.
Clamp silicone coupler

Slide coupler onto the airbox
Slide the tube into the coupler, push the tube into the coupler until it meets the airbox inlet end.
Clamp the silicone coupler.

I suspect there might be a gap inside one of the couplers or both where the tube doesn't exactly match the other end, would that make a difference?

 

[HeavyHittersMaryland]

Sounds like tuning Sammy. I hate remote tuning! Depending on who the tuner is they can fuck your car up real fast with all the trial and error logs.

 

[Troy Carter]

That is the correct fitment for this and all others with this style connection. Just be sure it's close without a big internal offset which there shouldn't be with how these install. I've never seen one where the hard parts overlap. The engine moves and shakes some and you need that rubber connection to absorb that movement.

 

[HeavyHittersMaryland]

As long as it’s sealed and you have no vacuum leaks it doesn’t matter. The maf sensor should read correctly. Also remember the maf sensor Has to be installed correctly, it will slide in either way but won’t read correctly.

 

[Sammy123]

OK I so I took the Steeda CAI completely apart and re-installed it one by one, making sure everything fit snug.

I noticed any improvement in idle under load. I let it idle under load for 5 minutes and it did not die once, though occasionally it did seem to "hunt" a bit, but settled down. So far so good. Hope it stays this way.

 

[HeavyHittersMaryland]

Your maf sensor is in the right way I see in your picture. Just use your hand to check for vacuum leaks around each fitting. Is that second maf hole in your intake tube blocked off?

 

[Sammy123]

The second maf hole was perfectly blocked off, didn't have to do anything.

OK so since taking apart and putting back the steed cj CAI, car no longer dies at idle under load (like at a stoplight). Idle is also much more stable. I don't know what happened, or what I did to correct it. Maybe it's the car fucking with me for putting on all these mods with less than 3k miles on the odometer.

 

[HeavyHittersMaryland]

Who is tuning your car?

 

[HeavyHittersMaryland]

Tell palm beach tune it right Or you want your money back, car idles rough and dies a lot. Make sure you tell them every single thing that is done to your car and every spec for them to tune it right. I wouldn’t want to drive A brand new car not acting right until the final revisions are done. 3k is good your car will get used to those mods rather then stock set up.

 

[Ricker]

Sammy said it was all worked out when he reinstalled the CAI.

I think his issue was either the reducer insert was not installed correctly or there was a air/vacuum leak at one of the fittings or PCV fitting.

 

[HeavyHittersMaryland]

Ricker works at pbd

 

[Sammy123]

I was able to get the idle issues worked out. I'm not sure how or why it happened. It's been many days of frequent driving, it doesn't idle erratically at a stoplight anymore and eventually die, which is a good thing because that would suck being in traffic lol.


I also went back to the dyno today. Car made 502 hp with the steeda cj intake. However I did see/feel a momentary buck during the pull. Not sure what it was, the dyno operator thinks it was traction control trying to kick in. I did pull fuse 62 though. Also it's not something I feel on the street, just on this dyno today. I checked the logs and saw no knock, no knock retard, not sure what that was about. Not something that happens on the street.

 

[Ricker]

502RWHP is a great number.

There is a connector that is beside the airbox that disconnects all the nannies.

This should be disconnected for dyno runs and is to be used with caution on the drag strip as your ABS, traction control and stability control will be disabled.

 

[msweet]

Yup,

Using the blue filter with MAF mounted in the filter box. I also drilled the hole for the PCV valve. Did you do the same?

In this pic it looks like the silicone coupler is overlapping the MAF location in the tube, not sealing fully. May be the angle of the pic too but the blocking plate doesn't look quite flush? Could it have been a vac leak there maybe

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