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Getting the GT350R dialed in for Sebring

luc

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Sorry but the right way, especially for the track, to add negative camber is NOT to use what you call “service bolts”
But rather camber plates
The service bolts that replace the strut to spindle bolts are weaker than the original because they need to have a smaller od in order to modify the camber
Bad idea on a track car
 

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Sorry but the right way, especially for the track, to add negative camber is NOT to use what you call “service bolts”
But rather camber plates
The service bolts that replace the strut to spindle bolts are weaker than the original because they need to have a smaller od in order to modify the camber
Bad idea on a track car
This isn't entirely true. It'll depend on the grade of bolt, the amount of stress bolt sees, and a myriad of other factors.

While a good set of camber plates is ideal for many reasons, the BMR camber bolts are very strong and a great option. I've yet to see one fail and most of the heavy duty track 350s I know use them because no camber plate on the market reaches the required amount of camber.
 
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Sorry but the right way, especially for the track, to add negative camber is NOT to use what you call “service bolts”
But rather camber plates
The service bolts that replace the strut to spindle bolts are weaker than the original because they need to have a smaller od in order to modify the camber
Bad idea on a track car
I’m not sure I agree with this either as the shop ran the Ford Mustang GT4 to many podium finishes and helped with some of the development on the car with Ford Performance as well as running IMSA teams to podium finishes. They know what they are doing and trust them 100%.
Camber plates are on the list and we did a couple custom tid bits with the bolts and were able to achieve -2 in the front. The suspension geometry is very interesting in the front of these cars when it comes to how camber works and why the cars need so much front camber to not blow through the outside edge of the tire. It’s amazing that Ford didn’t allow for any front adjustment from factory.
 

luc

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Not trying to start an argument but anyone that track/race cars will tell you the same thing, camber bolts are ok on the street with street tires but they don’t belong on a track, especially if using track tires
I bet you that what they did to add extra camber, more than the bolts allowed, was to slightly grind 1 of the strut holes
Btw, the gt350r and, I believe the gt350 with handling package, came stock, for the last few years, with camber plates
 

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Not trying to start an argument but anyone that track/race cars will tell you the same thing, camber bolts are ok on the street with street tires but they don’t belong on a track, especially if using track tires
I bet you that what they did to add extra camber, more than the bolts allowed, was to slightly grind 1 of the strut holes
Btw, the gt350r and, I believe the gt350 with handling package, came stock, for the last few years, with camber plates
I didn’t think you were. Just a discussion. The strut bolts in these cars are abnormally strong.
19+ came with camber plates as an option. Mine is an 18.
And no they didn’t grind the strut holes. That is a no no and would weaken things. These guys only do things right and don’t half ass anything.
 
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I love when people bring "long time beliefs" to war against actual proof and try to act like they're the same thing.

I'm sure on some cars the bolts can pose an issue, but it sounds like hundreds of miles of track testing have proved that not to be an issue with the S550 chassis.
 

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Which club are you running with, SCCA? They usually put on a good event, last time though they were rolling around on golf carts yelling about masks even when sitting solo.

I plan to run with PDG in March. 6 sessions and less restrictive passing.
 

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Setting aside the issues of camber bolts vs plates, what I saw on the video doesn't fill me with confidence that the car's set up right for the track. The R setup that I use is -2.2 degrees front and -1.6 degrees rear, with zero toe front and 0.3 degrees total toe-in rear. Essentially, they're the 2019 Owner's Supplement settings. The other thing, that I've experienced myself, is that the rear camber/toe setting will shift a bit after you drive the car - you won't know for sure if they're right unless you re-check after a test drive.
 

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I haven't run Sebring specifically, so can't say I've measured tire temps there but do agree that -1.7-2.0 camber is definitely on the light side. If you street drive a good bit, it's a decent compromise. But for track oriented use, I wouldn't go any less than -2.2. And the car is happiest north of -3.2 everywhere I've tested it. I also found a bit of toe IN up front helps turn in

/end of unsolicited feedback :)
 

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Which club are you running with, SCCA? They usually put on a good event, last time though they were rolling around on golf carts yelling about masks even when sitting solo.

I plan to run with PDG in March. 6 sessions and less restrictive passing.
Running with PBOC at Winterfest. Crazy event! I just got the list of cars signed up and there is a Hurricane Performante and Aventador running in my group. Going to be crazy!
 
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Setting aside the issues of camber bolts vs plates, what I saw on the video doesn't fill me with confidence that the car's set up right for the track. The R setup that I use is -2.2 degrees front and -1.6 degrees rear, with zero toe front and 0.3 degrees total toe-in rear. Essentially, they're the 2019 Owner's Supplement settings. The other thing, that I've experienced myself, is that the rear camber/toe setting will shift a bit after you drive the car - you won't know for sure if they're right unless you re-check after a test drive.
We couldn’t go anymore with out Camber bolts or plates. They wanted to go much much more but don’t have the adjustment ability so the Ford Performance recommended specs is what we were shooting for. Wanted to get a good baseline on the car before the big modding starts
 
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I haven't run Sebring specifically, so can't say I've measured tire temps there but do agree that -1.7-2.0 camber is definitely on the light side. If you street drive a good bit, it's a decent compromise. But for track oriented use, I wouldn't go any less than -2.2. And the car is happiest north of -3.2 everywhere I've tested it. I also found a bit of toe IN up front helps turn in

/end of unsolicited feedback :)
Haha feedback from people that actually heavy track the car is great feedback. With our limited adjustability I told him I wanted something that will be good on track and good on street without eating tires as I will most likely only track the GT350R 3-4 times a year and will mostly share an M3 track car with my dad for the most part
 

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How much were you able to get in the rear with everything stock?
 
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How much were you able to get in the rear with everything stock?
You can actually get quite a bit out of the rear with OEM set up. We settled at the Ford Performance recommendation because of the fronts
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