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Getting CarPlay to work?

RTFM

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I also recommend to use the overly expensive Apple cables for testing your setup. They are made to the Apple specs.

Once that is confirmed to work, you can test with other cable vendors. But not before.
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GilmourD

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I also recommend to use the overly expensive Apple cables for testing your setup. They are made to the Apple specs.

Once that is confirmed to work, you can test with other cable vendors. But not before.
That's probably mentioned in the troubleshooting section when you RTFM, right @RTFM? 🤣
 
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Rbp_280z

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I have Sync 3, Software Version:3.0

I’m using a cable that works in another vehicle that has CarPlay.

A point of clarity, here:
I'm the "senior tech guy" here in the thread but I'm also not the OP. Also, the only "3" mentioned is the generation of Sync, not the firmware version number. That's why I asked what version and build he's running, the current being 3.4 build 23188, as posted by CyanLabs on August 4th, 2023.​

Despite the usual cry of "IT'S BRAND NEW!!! HOW IS IT BROKEN!?" defects in brand new products are unfortunately unavoidable and represent 1% to 3% of all products manufactured, regardless of industry. It happens and it's much more likely that you'll get a defective product than win the lottery.

Length by itself shouldn't affect things all to badly unless it's absurdly long. The USB 2.0 maximum recommended length is 16 feet (5 meters), which I do feel is absurdly long for usability reasons, but should function, but signal drive (versus DC resistance per foot) and latency shouldn't be an issue.

Now, QUALITY is a different thing. A cable made to spec should work just fine at maximum length. It doesn't cost much to make a cable to spec, which is why you can actually find decent cables on the counter at some 7-11 stores. But that doesn't mean that ALL cables are made to spec by people that actually give a flying pig. Under-spec'd conductor diameter or strand density can affect how many ohms per foot the cable presents to the system. Incorrectly spec'd insulation can introduce capacitance at a value that isn't accounted for by the spec. Or just a cable that can't keep itself together and has intermittent connectivity issues, which is just a problem altogether, Sync or not. Lord knows I've run across enough poorly terminated Cat5 and Cat6 cables that are passing PoE just fine but one of the data pairs is fakakta.

Non-nav is more difficult to update due to only having 8 gigs of flash storage versus the nav APIM which has 32 gigs. Realistically, though, load up the maps and let the thing write logs to the storage long enough and it'll be too full to write out the updates.

My new-to-me GT/CS has Nav but was out of space and just REFUSED to update until I forced a format and fresh install using CyanLabs Syn3 (no 'c' in that) Updater. I haven't dug into it too deeply but I'm curious if there's a way I would be able to access the file system in the APIM and browse through it with a laptop.

If there's one thing I've learned in all my years as a tech is to never assume if they haven't explicitly told you exactly what they did. The number of clients that I've had swear up and down that they reboot daily to find a Windows uptime that shows three or four digits for DAYS is... Well, probably counted at three or four digits. LOL
 

GilmourD

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NightmareMoon

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I have Sync 3, Software Version:3.0

I’m using a cable that works in another vehicle that has CarPlay.
Again, which port are you plugging into and did you go into the options in Sync and turn on the toggle for carplay?
 
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Rbp_280z

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Again, which port are you plugging into and did you go into the options in Sync and turn on the toggle for carplay?
I’m plugging into the center console port and I tried the port next to the start button. Where would I find the toggle for CarPlay?
 

markayash

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May not help but have had mine ( 2021 ) not connect and had to shut phone off ( iphone 12 ) and back on to get it to connect. Doesn't happen often but always when I am late and need my GPS.
 

NightmareMoon

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I’m plugging into the center console port and I tried the port next to the start button. Where would I find the toggle for CarPlay?
Good the console should be right place (not the port next to the start button)

The setting is in one of the sync menus. Its not hidden, but it probably defaults to ‘off’.

Thats probably your issue. Iirc Siri might also need to be enabled on your phone?
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