GEN 5 whipple 60-130 dragy ?

[HKusp]

Both will get you where you want to be now. Pushing 800 on D1x or the Whipple will be fuel system additions but both are capable there as well. The issue is the type of boost you want. The Whipple, while not as torquey down low as a TVS, still builds boost in the lower RPM range sooner than the D1x. The D1x will have that much talked about linear boost, the more you rev the more boost you will see. Many people like it because it is more controllable on the street. I like the torque and boost to come on lower in the RPM range. I think its more fun for a daily driven car, but it really comes down to the purpose of your car, track or street, and your own preferences.

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[1Mean22]

Why can’t you have the best of both worlds? Out of the box the Whipple will make the 600 you want now, but can go up to well over 1,000 when you’re ready.

I’m not sure in I’ll run into heat soak problems because I do tend to push my n/a car a lot on the streets, I also do like top end compared to a low end torque/HP. I am willing to go to whipple, I’m new into the car scene so I haven’t heard a lot of whipple in my town. There’s mainly twin turbo s550

what setup do you have?

 

[1Mean22]

Both will get you where you want to be now. Pushing 800 on D1x or the Whipple will be fuel system additions but both are capable there as well. The issue is the type of boost you want. The Whipple, while not as torquey down low as a TVS, still builds boost in the lower RPM range sooner than the D1x. The D1x will have that much talked about linear boost, the more you rev the more boost you will see. Many people like it because it is more controllable on the street. I like the torque and boost to come on lower in the RPM range. I think its more fun for a daily driven car, but it really comes down to the purpose of your car, track or street, and your own preferences.

I won’t be hitting track anytime soon most likely be a drag strip but I daily this car. I just heard that with whipple you have to keep an eye out for temps or you’re goin to run into problems and I kinda take my n/a to the extreme at times so I don’t know if it’ll be a good choice for me! I like top end more but low end I could deal with a whipple! I’d rather roll race then dig, what’s really faster at the end of the day? Whipple or procharger.

I even was considering going for a hellion twin turbos but I don’t know how high maintenance they really are it just seems more convenient to be able to change how much power I can use with a click of a button. If you have any knowledge for on twin turbos that’d be amazing to know! I really don’t care how the power gets delivered. I just want to be super fast sounds stupid but it’s the truth. Being able to go against corvettes and gtr etc would be a goal.

 

[HKusp]

Twin turbos are more complex. Hellion makes a really nice kit and the power potential is higher for them for sure. That being said, you are going to easily be able to push the limits of the stock bottom end and if it's your daily, you are going to be on borrowed time much north of 700rwhp on pump 93. Running e85 will help with detonation issues, but the fact remains that the stock bottom end usually won't live long running around 750-800+. There are guys doing it, but it is a matter of WHEN theyre going to experience something catastrophic, not IF. If you're cool with having to have a built short block put in at some point in that not-so-distant future have at it. The nice thing about a TT set-up like the Hellion kits are they can be turned up to insane power once you have the components down. You can do what you want to do with any of the 3 power adders you mentioned and there are others as well. Edelbrock and VMP can get you there.

As for the heat soak issue with the Whipples, they have a larger heat exchanger option as well as a dual fan set-up you can get that will mitigate a lot of the issue. If you want to run back to back to back runs without a few minutes cool down in between, you may have an issue but running around daily-ing the car with the occasional WOT romp, you shouldn't have too much of an issue. The issue with any of these on the street is always going to be traction. North of 600rwhp that is where money is spent, weight transfer and getting the power down to the ground.

 

[Angrey]

If you're going to make low to medium power, the whole menu is on the list (i.e 600-850 hp). Once you start making "bigger" power, the torque control and traction of a whipple car is going to be more problematic. So unless you're going to run a drag wheel/tire setup, I would recommend turbos for higher power. You can make higher power with the whipple, but it's MUCH more difficult to control. With turbos, they're more expensive and more complicated, but you have plenty of aftermarket offerings that will allow you to manage the amount of boost by gear, rpm, etc. Once you get above say 750 ft-lbs of torque, traction becomes the biggest factor.

You can manage that with a smaller wheel and grippier drag slick or full on drag radial, but if you want to stay with a larger diameter wheel, traction suffers and you'll need to be able to choke/hold back the power and torque until the higher gears/speeds otherwise it'll just be on roller skates.

 

[Racinjason65]

I’m not sure in I’ll run into heat soak problems because I do tend to push my n/a car a lot on the streets, I also do like top end compared to a low end torque/HP. I am willing to go to whipple, I’m new into the car scene so I haven’t heard a lot of whipple in my town. There’s mainly twin turbo s550

what setup do you have?

I have 2 S550’s with Whipple’s. A 2020 GT with a stage 2 Whipple, catted ARH Headers and Magnaflow cat back and a custom tune. On pump gas and a dyno that doesn’t put out unrealistic numbers it put down 732/588 and made power to 7,900 RPM (the Whipple tune peaked at 7,000) my 2018 GT350 has a Whipple Stage 2, 150mm throttle body, CJ cold air intake, ID1050x injectors, PNR Ice tank, ARH Catless headers and Corsa exhaust. same dyno as my GT, the GT350 only put down 435 stock, with these mods it made 757 on pump gas and 910 on e85 and a 3.625 pulley and made power to 8,500 With a proper tune, Whipple isn’t giving anything up on the top end. I also just put a Whipple on my 21 F150 and tow a 10k trailer with it. I go between SoCal, Lake Havasu Arizona and Las Vegas and haven’t had any heat soak issues on any of the Whipple’s And now I have the GT apart again for fjelly system, trans, rear and motor upgrades that should end up with 1,100-1,200 at the wheels with the 3.0 Whipple, not too many other FI kits can do that as they come out of the box.

 

[1Mean22]

If you're going to make low to medium power, the whole menu is on the list (i.e 600-850 hp). Once you start making "bigger" power, the torque control and traction of a whipple car is going to be more problematic. So unless you're going to run a drag wheel/tire setup, I would recommend turbos for higher power. You can make higher power with the whipple, but it's MUCH more difficult to control. With turbos, they're more expensive and more complicated, but you have plenty of aftermarket offerings that will allow you to manage the amount of boost by gear, rpm, etc. Once you get above say 750 ft-lbs of torque, traction becomes the biggest factor.

You can manage that with a smaller wheel and grippier drag slick or full on drag radial, but if you want to stay with a larger diameter wheel, traction suffers and you'll need to be able to choke/hold back the power and torque until the higher gears/speeds otherwise it'll just be on roller skates.

Most likely I’d be running a drag pack and some sort of suspension work just not sure what yet! Thank you for the information!

 

[1Mean22]

Twin turbos are more complex. Hellion makes a really nice kit and the power potential is higher for them for sure. That being said, you are going to easily be able to push the limits of the stock bottom end and if it's your daily, you are going to be on borrowed time much north of 700rwhp on pump 93. Running e85 will help with detonation issues, but the fact remains that the stock bottom end usually won't live long running around 750-800+. There are guys doing it, but it is a matter of WHEN theyre going to experience something catastrophic, not IF. If you're cool with having to have a built short block put in at some point in that not-so-distant future have at it. The nice thing about a TT set-up like the Hellion kits are they can be turned up to insane power once you have the components down. You can do what you want to do with any of the 3 power adders you mentioned and there are others as well. Edelbrock and VMP can get you there.

As for the heat soak issue with the Whipples, they have a larger heat exchanger option as well as a dual fan set-up you can get that will mitigate a lot of the issue. If you want to run back to back to back runs without a few minutes cool down in between, you may have an issue but running around daily-ing the car with the occasional WOT romp, you shouldn't have too much of an issue. The issue with any of these on the street is always going to be traction. North of 600rwhp that is where money is spent, weight transfer and getting the power down to the ground.

I really don’t want to switch transmission I don’t know how much a 10r80 could hold up for but I plan on getting a circle d converter, opg, and crank shaft sprocket I don’t know if that’s enough to hold up too 800whp let me know!
Why did you go with a whipple and not procharger or TT?

 

[1Mean22]

I have 2 S550’s with Whipple’s. A 2020 GT with a stage 2 Whipple, catted ARH Headers and Magnaflow cat back and a custom tune. On pump gas and a dyno that doesn’t put out unrealistic numbers it put down 732/588 and made power to 7,900 RPM (the Whipple tune peaked at 7,000) my 2018 GT350 has a Whipple Stage 2, 150mm throttle body, CJ cold air intake, ID1050x injectors, PNR Ice tank, ARH Catless headers and Corsa exhaust. same dyno as my GT, the GT350 only put down 435 stock, with these mods it made 757 on pump gas and 910 on e85 and a 3.625 pulley and made power to 8,500 With a proper tune, Whipple isn’t giving anything up on the top end. I also just put a Whipple on my 21 F150 and tow a 10k trailer with it. I go between SoCal, Lake Havasu Arizona and Las Vegas and haven’t had any heat soak issues on any of the Whipple’s And now I have the GT apart again for fjelly system, trans, rear and motor upgrades that should end up with 1,100-1,200 at the wheels with the 3.0 Whipple, not too many other FI kits can do that as they come out of the box.

That’s amazing number to hear, why did you choose whipple over TT and PC?

 

[Racinjason65]

That’s amazing number to hear, why did you choose whipple over TT and PC?

My GT was originally supposed to be a DD, so I wanted to just bolt so,etching on and forget about it, without having to worry about boost leaks etc. Whipple maintains stock manners And basically stock reliability and low maintenance (100k mile oil changes). Now that I’m going more extreme with that car, turbos we’re a consideration for power management reasons, but I still plan on it primarily being a street car, so the difference between 1,200 and 1,400 at the wheels isn’t really that significan.t. If I on the Shelby I originally wanted a centrifugal to match the power band of the car and wanted a Paxton 2200. I liked the idea of the progressive power minimal I’d any heat soak but for whatever reason the 2200 was hard to find at the time and Vortech was going to be the option, but the Vortech was a smaller head unit that was basically maxed out right out of the box and only had about 700 rwhp potentia, so I’d have to upgrade the head unit, then that was physically larger and required a different bracket, then it needed an upgraded intercooler and at that point it wasn’t really cheaper than the Whipple, but I’d be giving up low to mid range power and no advantage gained on the top end. So I decided to get a Whipple instead. i like the Low end that the Whipple’s provide and being to drive the cars around at low RPM ( they do get pretty loud with headers and exhaust) and still have decent acceleration without having to get the RPM’s up high if I don’t want to. In general I do like Procharger, but in the S550 I don’t like how they mount on the driver side and are set forward and require their drive belt to be on an additional pulley hanging off the end of the crank. (which I think that additional load could contribute to some of the crank snout failures) I think a crank support (additional $900) is basically mandatory for a Procharger on an S550, also the 01 head unit that comes with the kit would need to be upgraded if you ever go to a built motor and the intercooler would need to be upgraded as well. So by the time you have a PC kit that can support over 1k at the wheels, the PC isn’t any cheaper than Whipple, and still gives up low and midrange.

 

[1Mean22]

My GT was originally supposed to be a DD, so I wanted to just bolt so,etching on and forget about it, without having to worry about boost leaks etc. Whipple maintains stock manners And basically stock reliability and low maintenance (100k mile oil changes). Now that I’m going more extreme with that car, turbos we’re a consideration for power management reasons, but I still plan on it primarily being a street car, so the difference between 1,200 and 1,400 at the wheels isn’t really that significan.t. If I on the Shelby I originally wanted a centrifugal to match the power band of the car and wanted a Paxton 2200. I liked the idea of the progressive power minimal I’d any heat soak but for whatever reason the 2200 was hard to find at the time and Vortech was going to be the option, but the Vortech was a smaller head unit that was basically maxed out right out of the box and only had about 700 rwhp potentia, so I’d have to upgrade the head unit, then that was physically larger and required a different bracket, then it needed an upgraded intercooler and at that point it wasn’t really cheaper than the Whipple, but I’d be giving up low to mid range power and no advantage gained on the top end. So I decided to get a Whipple instead. i like the Low end that the Whipple’s provide and being to drive the cars around at low RPM ( they do get pretty loud with headers and exhaust) and still have decent acceleration without having to get the RPM’s up high if I don’t want to. In general I do like Procharger, but in the S550 I don’t like how they mount on the driver side and are set forward and require their drive belt to be on an additional pulley hanging off the end of the crank. (which I think that additional load could contribute to some of the crank snout failures) I think a crank support (additional $900) is basically mandatory for a Procharger on an S550, also the 01 head unit that comes with the kit would need to be upgraded if you ever go to a built motor and the intercooler would need to be upgraded as well. So by the time you have a PC kit that can support over 1k at the wheels, the PC isn’t any cheaper than Whipple, and still gives up low and midrange.

The more I talk to you guys the more I really want to do whipple it’s just sounds more simple! Have you went head to head with a PC or TT? How does that go?

 

[Racinjason65]

The more I talk to you guys the more I really want to do whipple it’s just sounds more simple! Have you went head to head with a PC or TT? How does that go?

So far I just play with my cars on the street, I have a drag pack for the GT, but no tires, and drag tires for the Shelby, but no wheels for them. I’ve picked on some Hellcats and some ZL1’s and Corvettes on the street but traction is a problem in the first 3 gears

 

[1Mean22]

So far I just play with my cars on the street, I have a drag pack for the GT, but no tires, and drag tires for the Shelby, but no wheels for them. I’ve picked on some Hellcats and some ZL1’s and Corvettes on the street but traction is a problem in the first 3 gears

With the gt can you run 732 reliably without any internals? Or you need internals if so what are they?

 

[Racinjason65]

With the gt can you run 732 reliably without any internals? Or you need internals if so what are they?

750 isnt Too hard on the motor, I think the pistons/rings are the first possible point of failure @ 850 or so, but you need a fuel system and e85 to get there. Pump gas will be your first limitation in the 700-750 range which doesn’t require going into the motor. But if I was going to run it hard or with forced induction long term, I’d do the oil pump gears and crank sprocket (like I did in my GT350) but this motor will end up NA again in another project car

 

[HKusp]

I had my mind pretty much made up from the get-go that I was going to go with a PD blower over TT or a Centri car having come over from a modular 5.4 with a PD blower. My GT500 was a very fun car to drive on the street and it had a ton of low end torque. The one thing the Coyote is lacking is the low end grunt I was very used to. Where it shines is the ability to rev 1000rpm higher than a 4v 5.4 liter, so I knew I wanted to improve the low end for my style of driving.

I was looking at Roush originally but they are the worst PD for the S550 due to the heat soak issue. Even with all the cooling improvements they have made, they are the worst for heat soak. I had issues with that ver issue on the GT500, 5.4 platform that was very frustrating until I got it worked out with a bigger, triple pass, heat exchanger, dual fans and larger volume heat exchanger pump. So a Roush was out. Next I was leaning heavily towards a VMP Odin kit because they have the best low end torque and I had upgraded my stock Eaton to a VMP Gen2R on my GT500 and was very pleased with the quality, customer service, and performance of their stuff. My car is a DD and reaching out much further than 750rwhp is not a goal for me until this car is paid off and I am in another car or truck to daily. The TVS platforms like Roush, Edelbrock, and VMP are all going to really be reving hard and making a lot of heat trying to get north of 850, where-as, the twin screw of the Whipple is more efficient and thus cooler running than the TVS units and capable of much more boost with less heat in the upper limits. That being said, I was angling on getting the Odin kit when I saw a guy selling an 18+ Whipple kit, brand new, for a really really good deal in the midst of all the supply chain shortages where guys were waiting 16-20 weeks after purchasing for delivery of their kits. Whipple has a really good reputation for quality, the price was too hard to turn down so I made the deal. The ability to make four digit power "easier" than the TVS based units is a bonus if I ever feel like it's something I want to do.

I am in the middle of the installation of it, as I type this so, it obviously is fresh in my mind and I will say this, the Whipple install is NOT, at all, what I would characterize as easy. The kit is very complex and detailed. There are a TON of parts supplied, and the directions have many revisions but still don't always match the parts you end up holding in your hand. They say a competent shop should be able to do the installation in 15-20 hours. I am probably 36 hours in, and MAY be somewhere near finished in ANOTHER 15-20 hours. I have had help for only about 10 of those hours so far and there are a lot of times where a 2nd pair of hands and eyes would be of tremendous help. I have assembled and pulled apart to redo things countless times at this point, but once I am finished, I think if I were to do another one within a few months, it would get done in half the time just due to familiarity.

The centrifugal kits are supposedly much easier to install according to everyone who has done them, so keep that in mind. A twin turbo kit is even more complex than this Whipple install and depending on whose kit you get, you could have to fab up a ton of stuff or have a shop do it for you. The Hellion kits are very complete, but again, fairly complex. The thing that didn't appeal to me about houng centri or twin turbo for me was the lag. Both platforms have lag issues for a manual car, which mine is. The 10speed auto, not so much. So that made those 2 choices much less desirable for me.

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