And how exactly do you know that? I agree factory oil shouldn't be changed too early, but like Dfeeds said, many engines come with full synthetic oils from the factory (reportedly including the GT350), so it shouldn't really matter IMO. I changed mine at 1,128 miles on the Bullitt, and right at 4K miles, it hasn't consumed any, and I don't have a catch can (but replaced the PCV valve early on).
It's not caused by not pre-filling the oil filter. If it was that simple, Ford would have put a SSM out about that, or would have mentioned it in their typewriter tick SSM 7718.
Only 1/2 quart in 5000 miles is very low oil consumption. I think the only vehicle I've ever owned that had that low or less consumption was a Toyota Tacoma 4.0L V6. My 2015 GT uses around 1 qt/5000 miles, and I'm AOK with that.
If the PTWA coating is only 0.004-0.008" thick, then even if that material's thermal expansion coefficient is much higher than the aluminum block, it still won't change much due to how thin it is. On the Gen3 Coyote, It's the thermal expansion of the aluminum block that will dictate cylinder size change as the engine warms up.
Hello; Fair enough. I made the comment and was careful to indicate it was just a guess. I did not know then, nor do I know now the cause of the noise.
Yeah I'm definitely not complaining. My point was that the amount could be dependent on use. I think some people don't realize that every internal combustion engine, whether perceptible or not, will use oil. Fuel dilution and moisture build up can give the impression that the oil level hasn't changed at all.
And doesn't the aluminum block have a higher thermal expansion coefficient than the hypereutectic pistons?
A dry oil filter may cause some initial start-up noise, but it's certainly not going to make the engine make noises for thousands of miles after the initial start-up.
Just take the high road and ignore stupid behavior like that. It's not worth getting into arguments with people that fly off the handle over general comments not directly meant for them.
It could be viscosity dependent. Whatever is causing the noise (excessive or too tight of clearances once warmed up, for example) may benefit from a lower viscosity than the oil starts with. Oil shears with use due to several factors. So, even if it's the exact same viscosity and brand, the oil going in will be a bit more viscous than the oil going out. I had the bbq tick all summer when I ran 5w30. This summer I used 5w20 and had the tick in the beginning but a couple thousand miles in it's gone. It never went away with the 5w30.
I asked how the hell do you know it's at 80%. Or whatever percentage
.When changing the oil, it's best to both pre-fill oil filter as much as possible (it can't be fully filled on GTs, due to the angle it sits), and drain oil fully, but not leave it overnight, in order to start the engine while still at least warm, so oil doesn't fully drain to the pan. I let it drain like an hour, at which point it's just dripping slowly. And with 10 quarts of new oil, zero issues even if you just let it sit for half an hour.
Hello; Same for my Sentra. Filter goes on horizontal. I fill it a little at a time until the lining stops soaking up the new oil. I then hold it horizontal and see if any drains out. I figure this is an improvement over a completely dry filter start up.
“How the hell do I know” ?I asked how the hell do you know it's at 80%. Or whatever percentage