Front LCA Bearing?

[rcb020]

I hear a lot about the benefits of replacing the stock bushing in the rear lower control arm. Is anyone currently doing the same in the front, and what are the benefits of doing so?

Cortex currently offers a kit that replaces both front and rear LCA bushings:
http://cortexracing.com/product/monoball-kit-2015-s550-mustang-front-and-rear/

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[wildcatgoal]

The benefits are that there will be no flex or bind in the front control arm, which will ensure the alignment doesn't change on account of the bushing flexing. Better steering feel, stronger, etc. I hear rumblings that Steeda is working on a solution, and that I am waiting for. I would think BMR is, too. If you don't have a rear LCA bearing already, that Cortex front and rear kit is a good deal, worth getting if you need it now, I'd say. Cortex's bearings would be my choice if I wasn't so happy with Steeda's support and, therefore, a self-admitted and proud Steeda fanboy!

That said, it's not a MUST HAVE unless you road course the car. It really isn't. I do suspect it would add some NVH - hard bumps would add more shock to the chassis, but wouldn't be too bad.

The rear LCA bearing, I think that's a must have for anyone, especially if your like most Mustang owners and like to drag nights and want to stop wheel hop or feel the car is wishy-washy in the rear. I wish more people would do the rear LCA bearing mod FIRST... before anything else. I wish I did. I like Steeda's offering - excellent product, I'm a fan of the metal they chose to use, beautiful piece, great price. And you can pair what Steeda comes out with later. You can get the BMR bearing, too, if you prefer. Good product. But... please do get someone's rear LCA bearing. It's a pain in the rear end to install, but... so worth it.

 

[MtnBiker]

If you have a GT Performance Pack car you have a bearing on the front (the inner rear control arm) already. You'd only need the one for the front control arm to take the suspension to 11

 

[boardkat]

i just picked up the front/rear LCA monoball setup from cortex earlier this week.

first off - pressing those bushings out are a BITCH! i already knew that going in, but now i REALLY know. uggh....

haven't seen anybody post a step-by-step, but filip @ cortex gave me a good set of instructions on the fly to follow (he's hoping to have some up on the site in the near future). since both are slip-fit, you need to use some retaining compound for them to fully seat after about a 24 hour cure. rears were straight forward, but you need to use some elbow grease to get all the paint off the bore on the front LCA. keep at it with a wire brush until you get it all out, use some fine grit sandpaper to finish off, and then hit it with some brakleen. also, ensure you know how to get that snap ring on (and that you have a tool with enough range, these are BIG housings/rings), since the loctite sets pretty quickly (and you don't want to be fumbling with it after it's fully cured).

i'll have feedback in the near future, after i've got everything back on the car and out for my first competition on the new setup next weekend.

 

[buggy whip]

i just picked up the front/rear LCA monoball setup from cortex earlier this week.

first off - pressing those bushings out are a BITCH! i already knew that going in, but now i REALLY know. uggh....

haven't seen anybody post a step-by-step, but filip @ cortex gave me a good set of instructions on the fly to follow (he's hoping to have some up on the site in the near future). since both are slip-fit, you need to use some retaining compound for them to fully seat after about a 24 hour cure. rears were straight forward, but you need to use some elbow grease to get all the paint off the bore on the front LCA. keep at it with a wire brush until you get it all out, use some fine grit sandpaper to finish off, and then hit it with some brakleen. also, ensure you know how to get that snap ring on (and that you have a tool with enough range, these are BIG housings/rings), since the loctite sets pretty quickly (and you don't want to be fumbling with it after it's fully cured).

i'll have feedback in the near future, after i've got everything back on the car and out for my first competition on the new setup next weekend.

What's your feedback on the Cortex bearings ?

 

[boardkat]

What's your feedback on the Cortex bearings ?

tough to isolate any one component (i literally took ALL the rubber out, all at once, among other things). also, i haven't had a chance to truly baseline them in competition (cold and wet today, decided to skip the event), but on the street thus far in synergy with everything else, they've exceeded my expectations. minimal NVH increase with more precise turn-in, and predictable movement both in and out of corners on-throttle (vs. "snappy" response due to suspension binding previously).

 

[West TX GT]

If you have a GT Performance Pack car you have a bearing on the front (the inner rear control arm) already. You'd only need the one for the front control arm to take the suspension to 11

This is not correct. The performance packs have the same garbage bushing as every other mustang. This should be a mod on every mustang.

 

[MtnBiker]

This is not correct. The performance packs have the same garbage bushing as every other mustang. This should be a mod on every mustang.

Copied from Ford Racing website:

"The Rearward Performance Pack Front Control Arms are forged steel and contain a spherical bearing mount versus the tubular weldment and rubber bushing found on base Mustangs"

 

[BmacIL]

Copied from Ford Racing website:

"The Rearward Performance Pack Front Control Arms are forged steel and contain a spherical bearing mount versus the tubular weldment and rubber bushing found on base Mustangs"

This. The rear of the two front control arms has a bushing on the non-PP cars vs. bearing for PP. It has dust boots on it, so it looks a bit like a bushing, but it is a bearing.

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