From 370z to Mustang GT

[Bulldog9]

I know these cars have that stigma of "crowd killer"....that's only because Mustangs are a lot of power for not a lot of money, which attracts a lot of idiots unfortunately. These cars are no harder to drive than a Camry. Those that crash leaving shows, I'm sure are taking TC off to do a burnout and lose control or because the internet says taking TC off makes you go faster. If you have any amount of mature common sense, you will be completely fine.

I've seen all the videos on these guys trying to impress then PRESSING the crowds. I think some of it is clearly driver inexperience (and lack of judgement) but I also have read that much of the problem with the FOX Body and following cars was the rear differential that wasn't consistent the way a true posi rear or open diff would be. I think Ford addressed this with the IRS and rear differential in the S550 models. I'd be surprised to see these continue in this model line, but Darwin/Murphy will always find a way.

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[WD Pro]

The s550 rear end / diff didn’t fix the issue - there’s still plenty YouTube footage to dispel that theory ...

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[Elp_jc]

I used to autocross, and loss of traction is loss of speed, so I am hardwired to not ever overpower the tires.

Smart guy . And in case you do that, having a steady right foot (good throttle control), helps you to regain it quickly. Suddenly surpassing the tires' limits is what gets you in trouble, nannies or not. And yes, you also need to actually know how to control a car out of control, and have the reflexes and experience to do it quickly, before it's too late. Trying to learn with a croud nearby is definitely not the right place.

 

[jrsimon27]

Hey dont worry if you have tc on either in normal mode or sports plus you can drive it hard nothing will happen

 

[3rdRGR]

Very well said! Thank you for the response. The g/z as you said are both very “cool” cars. Quick and nimble and can take a corner easily. I’m very happy to be getting into a GT and having that muscle far feel. I just hope I don’t drive it like the z or I’ll end up into a ditch.

The traction control intervenes pretty quickly. You've been driving a RWD car for as long as you've had the Z. You'll be fine.

 

[Bulldog9]

As a Ford/Mustang NEWBY, I'm interested in learning not only about the Traction Control, but their 'stability' control which I think is likely more of an issue in situations while, moving, in turns, etc. TC is generally for traction in a straight line, but stability control is what gets involved when the vehicle is negotiating turns, or the back end kicks out, or front/rear loses traction and 'intended direction' in turns etc.

In reading about the Bullitt's control systems, it seems that the TC/SC settings are adjusted by drive mode, but am unclear if shutting the system off disables the stability control. It obviously does NOT disable the ABS, but how does the TC switch effect stability control.

NOT a good example, but is relative. In my Tundra TRD PRO, there is a TC switch that allows you to switch modes from normal full TC/SC, which cuts power and applies brakes as needed, to shutting TC off, which eliminates the cut in power, but uses the rear brakes to simulate a rear limited slip, and another setting to completely disable the stability control. Switching to 4H changes things, disables TC engine cut off, uses the ELSD, and uses some sort of advanced programming, and another setting to shut off the whole system. 4L just runs with all 4 wheels locked with no electronic nannies. It is all controlled by one button that you press, hold, press twice, etc to select what you want.

Understanding the system is important. I've played a bit with the Bullitt's switch, but have been unable to do more than just get the 'TCOFF" light. Are there various levels the driver can control, or is it just TC on and off, and the rest of the stability control is tied to drive mode? Just doesn't seem like there is good clear info on the Ford Stability control systems. I think they call it 'advance track'?

Here is one article, but leaves me with questions still for the Mustang, Bullitt which Ford says has different programming. https://www.sherwoodford.ca/blog/how-does-the-ford-advancetrac-electronic-stability-control-work/

Here is a video for 2010 Models that illustrates what I am talking about:

And this video that has some info.

I'm thinking that once I get it figured out, I will type up a 'cheat sheet' and print it out on a label to put on the visor for quick reference, as each car has it's own system, and I cant remember it lol, same for resetting the oil change warning.

 

[XeninWorX]

I came from a 2006 Civic Si and now I drive a 2014 S197 V6 MT82. Completely different cars but both absolutely fun to drive. Still got a lot to learn about Mustangs.

 

[illtal]

Title says it all. With that being said, I loved being able to just “get on it” in the Z and it rode like it was on rails. Obviously the GT has much more HP and a different beast. I want to be able to get on it, but keep reading about them getting squirmy and losing control. I’m sure most is user error but I want to have fun in it. Can y’all give me some pointers?

My advice, TC on, drive it it in standard mode, for a week, then sport mode, then Drag Mode, Track mode disables TC. For me there was no reason to drive a mid 400 HP car around the street with no TC.

As most have said, it's tame, it does squirm around on hard exits, but that's because of the IRS needing to have the cradle locked out. Many companies make these kits, and it takes the slight squirm out at the expense of more NVH. Even from the factory, a non-pp car is way out of most peoples league when it comes to making it handle. My experience coming from several other RWD cars is this one can be driven many ways, (track wise) but I also changed my suspension to a coil-over kit around 5k miles.

I am now supercharged and lemme tell you, I hardly ever feel like for street driving to change the mode out of normal. I think the perfect word for these cars is respect. Respect the throttle because it can get you in trouble in a number of ways.

 

[TomOz]

In reading about the Bullitt's control systems, it seems that the TC/SC settings are adjusted by drive mode, but am unclear if shutting the system off disables the stability control. It obviously does NOT disable the ABS, but how does the TC switch effect stability control.

The different drive modes change the level of AdvanceTrac that is used. None of them will turn it off completely.

Now you can turn off Traction Control by toggling the button in front of the gear lever once.

If you hold it for more than 5 seconds, it turns off both Traction Control and Electronic Stability Control.

Be careful doing this, as the car can bite.

 

[Bulldog9]

The different drive modes change the level of AdvanceTrac that is used. None of them will turn it off completely.

Now you can turn off Traction Control by toggling the button in front of the gear lever once.

If you hold it for more than 5 seconds, it turns off both Traction Control and Electronic Stability Control.

Be careful doing this, as the car can bite.

Yep, I get it. I just like to know how things work. Pilot Sports are too expensive to wantonly shred ;-) I may have some fun lighting them up at the end of their natural life, but otherwise, rarely look to spin my tires.

I've been super impressed with the Steeda IRS brace, has really tightened up the rear of the car, give great hookup and helps keep the power put to the road with less drama and spin. They work much like the old school traction bars I used to run in High School.

 

[2morrow]

Keep TC on at all times lol. Or just go to a big empty lot where there's literally nothing you could possibly hit and get used to the car. Congrats on your purchase!

Pretty good advice.

I would also suggest doing an auto-x or a track night and learn the limits of traction/tires/your car/you in a controlled environment. I work for the SCCA and highly recommend that to all drivers that are looking to really drive their cars.

From there many get the bug and move onto more high-end performance organizers or schools.

Good luck, be safe and have fun!

 

[Elp_jc]

If you hold it for more than 5 seconds, it turns off both Traction Control and Electronic Stability Control.

That reportedly is not the case except on Shelbys... but it'd be nice to hear if that's really the case on GT PP1 cars. I'd also like to have precise data on each level of intervention: normal mode, sport mode, track mode, and ESC 'off'. Not sure if ESC OFF is not completely off, or if off, but still monitoring the car, and it turns back on when it senses it's out of control (but how much?). I think it's the latter, but hopefully somebody who has messed with it can chime in .

 

[jwt]

I will second the cold tires comment, I can feel* the rear move around exiting my street as I change from 1st to 2nd, that's less than 100 yards from my house in a residential area with neighbors I like so not getting it on in way whatsoever, just if you go a bit deep on the throttle after changing to 2nd at 2000 to 2500 rpm you can feel it. That's how bad pilot sport 4s are when under 10 degrees c ambient and cold.

Once warmed up they are sticky as hell. Ultimately 400+ hp rear wheel drive needs to be driven with respect, a front wheel drive will spin up the tires mid bend and understeer or wash out and if your TC or throttle control catches it the wheels grip and off you go**. Rear wheel will have you sideways. If you are expecting it and driving for it not a problem.

* TC/SC or torsen diff, I haven't figured out which one it is yet
**unless you have seriously overcooked it and then it's definitely a driver error not car or tires issue.

 

[jwt]

That reportedly is not the case except on Shelbys... but it'd be nice to hear if that's really the case on GT PP1 cars. I'd also like to have precise data on each level of intervention: normal mode, sport mode, track mode, and ESC 'off'. Not sure if ESC OFF is not completely off, or if off, but still monitoring the car, and it turns back on when it senses it's out of control (but how much?). I think it's the latter, but hopefully somebody who has messed with it can chime in .

I thought the only way to truly disable everything was to disconnect the plug in the fender like you would for a dyno?

 

[illtal]

I will second the cold tires comment, I can feel* the rear move around exiting my street as I change from 1st to 2nd, that's less than 100 yards from my house in a residential area with neighbors I like so not getting it on in way whatsoever, just if you go a bit deep on the throttle after changing to 2nd at 2000 to 2500 rpm you can feel it. That's how bad pilot sport 4s are when under 10 degrees c ambient and cold.

Once warmed up they are sticky as hell. Ultimately 400+ hp rear wheel drive needs to be driven with respect, a front wheel drive will spin up the tires mid bend and understeer or wash out and if your TC or throttle control catches it the wheels grip and off you go**. Rear wheel will have you sideways. If you are expecting it and driving for it not a problem.

* TC/SC or torsen diff, I haven't figured out which one it is yet
**unless you have seriously overcooked it and then it's definitely a driver error not car or tires issue.

Remember uhp tires are max summer tires, only supposed to be flexed at temps over 40 f. I always revert back to my all season stockers after mid fall.

Torsen diffs have a unique way of mitigating wheelspin, by transferring 100% of available torque from the slipping side to the gripping side. It likely happens too fast to feel unless you're already sideways

I'm sure they chose the torsen because it feels like an open diff under most circumstances, and there is no low chatter or resisting turn by driving both wheels forward when trying to park or something.

The sport package z had a viscous lsd, same feel at low speed lock up at the moment two wheels spin at different speeds. Needs frequent maintenance... Ew

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