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Found this metal on my oil plug. What is this?

PoCoBob

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I hate getting warranty work done. You know the techs main concern is how fast can he get the job finished. I bet the dealer charged Ford for new bolts although they never used them.

But now that you're into it this deep you can upgrade the needed parts so the engine can safely hit those rpm's you like to take it up to. :)
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Andy13186

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Found some more cool stuff in my oil pan, sucks because they found this after doing the cylinder head work and cam caps and have it all back together... Got some piston skirt in there and a ton of clips. They said they could just clean the pan and put it back together if I want since the compression test was fine. Or I could get a shortblock and have them redo all the work. Pretty stressful. 2 piston skirts were missing chunks.

IMG_1395.JPG



Not entirely sure what to do.
 
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DougS550

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Found some more cool stuff in my oil pan, sucks because they found this after doing the cylinder head work and cam camps and have it all back together... Got some piston skirt in there and a ton of clips. They said they could just clean the pan and put it back together if I want since the compression test was fine. Or I could get a shortblock and have them redo all the work. Pretty stressful. 2 piston skirts were missing chunks.

IMG_1395.JPG



Not entirely sure what to do.
So the shop said they could just clean the debris, put the pan back on and send you on your way? Thats some of the craziest shit I have heard. Even a backyard Junior Samples wouldn't go that far. Wozer!!
 
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Andy13186

Andy13186

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IT seems crazy but, the car was actually running fine with all this that happened, no noises or power loss or anything. Broken cam cap bolts and cam cap loose in the cylinder heads, slightly bent cam with cam scoring, 2 broken piston skirts, like 8-9 rocker arm retaining clips missing. Compression test was fine. Pretty crazy. Shop said they haven't seen anything like this before. Its been there for months now. May get an aluminator or RPG shortblock but sucks if I have to pay labor the same work twice and add like another month to not having a car. Would suck worse to have it totally fail though without doing a shortblock and then having to do even more shite, and well, possibly die in a high speed crash from oiling the tires.
 
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Short block.

Broken piston skirts are no bueno.
 

Coosawjack

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Recon all this was caused from constantly revving over 8K or whatever you were doing??

If so, perhaps a rev limiter might be a prudent move when you get your new motor??
 

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Eh... at this stage, just run it full bore until the remainder of the pistons ventilate the sides of the block... it will make wonderful sounds. What have ya got to lose if the shop was willing to just button it up and send you along? Will they then warranty their work after you return with block shards?

But REALLY?!?

I can't even rationalize how if a shop found that much debris in the pan, it's just "ok" ....
 

sk47

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Hello; Aside from having chunks of metal in the oil, there is the question of balance. High revving engines depend on the moving parts (rotating/moving mass) being balanced. Builders will go to great lengths to match parts by weight. You will have some pistons much lighter than others at the very least. On top of that there are reasons piston have skirts.
I am old school about these things. I cannot picture not going deep into the block just to check. I get trying to do just enough, but this tale of yours is almost the equal of a guy I did work for years ago. He had a Porsche 911 which had sat for years. I finally got the engine running and found the brake pedal going to the floor. Discovered the master cylinder had leaked out. When i filled & tried to bench bleed found one chamber would not seal. Only had front brakes. He was willing to drive it that way. I balked and refused to work on any more of his cars if he did not let me fix the brakes properly. I wanted a new mastercylinder. He balked so we compromised. I got a correct size cylinder hone and a rebuild kit. Turned out alright a bit to my surprise. Brake job held up for years. I even talked him into new stainless braded brake lines to the calipers citing the money saved.

Did the shop had the heads off to do the work? I just cannot imagine doing head work without first looking in the oil pan. I do not see less than a complete rebuild if by some miracle the cylinders are not scored. Every journal and bearing needs to be looked over. If the crank and other bearing surfaces are OK by a second miracle you still likely have bits of metal in the passages. Guess that could be cleaned. Then all the surfaces checked for true. Maybe line bored.
Unless this is some sort of quest, a new short block likely the less expensive way to go in the end.

Good luck.


Found some more cool stuff in my oil pan, sucks because they found this after doing the cylinder head work and cam caps and have it all back together... Got some piston skirt in there and a ton of clips. They said they could just clean the pan and put it back together if I want since the compression test was fine. Or I could get a shortblock and have them redo all the work. Pretty stressful. 2 piston skirts were missing chunks.

IMG_1395.JPG



Not entirely sure what to do.

IT seems crazy but, the car was actually running fine with all this that happened, no noises or power loss or anything. Broken cam cap bolts and cam cap loose in the cylinder heads, slightly bent cam with cam scoring, 2 broken piston skirts, like 8-9 rocker arm retaining clips missing. Compression test was fine. Pretty crazy. Shop said they haven't seen anything like this before. Its been there for months now. May get an aluminator or RPG shortblock but sucks if I have to pay labor the same work twice and add like another month to not having a car. Would suck worse to have it totally fail though without doing a shortblock and then having to do even more shite, and well, possibly die in a high speed crash from oiling the tires.
 

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DougS550

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IT seems crazy but, the car was actually running fine with all this that happened, no noises or power loss or anything. Broken cam cap bolts and cam cap loose in the cylinder heads, slightly bent cam with cam scoring, 2 broken piston skirts, like 8-9 rocker arm retaining clips missing. Compression test was fine. Pretty crazy. Shop said they haven't seen anything like this before. Its been there for months now. May get an aluminator or RPG shortblock but sucks if I have to pay labor the same work twice and add like another month to not having a car. Would suck worse to have it totally fail though without doing a shortblock and then having to do even more shite, and well, possibly die in a high speed crash from oiling the tires.
Well, if you personally bore scoped your cylinders, pistons, valves, inspected the rods, piston underside and crank journals with your pan off, and your oil sample analysis was good , and you know their aren't any more parts floating around your engine, which could grenade your engine, then, wow that still is a tough call. But, if it's a track car and you can afford a complete engine?, maybe go untill it blows or not blows, who really knows.
 

PoCoBob

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I don't see where you have any choice, you need to at least fix the broken pistons before they send a rod through the block.

But the bigger question is who decided a stock bottom end and valve assembly could withstand 8500 rpm? If it was you then you have no recourse. If someone sold you something and said their tune/setup will work fine with your car/mods I'd be talking to a lawyer right about now. That engine is in the process of self destructing and somebody should be accountable for that happening.
 

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Eh... at this stage, just run it full bore until the remainder of the pistons ventilate the sides of the block... it will make wonderful sounds. What have ya got to lose if the shop was willing to just button it up and send you along? Will they then warranty their work after you return with block shards?

But REALLY?!?

I can't even rationalize how if a shop found that much debris in the pan, it's just "ok" ....
lol i thought so too but... its now a year later and my 66 c10 is still broke, shop did top end rebuild...wiped the cam...and their response was to give me labor back and that the engine was fine... "its just a little metal" like how the fiuck can u even say that w/straight face... just waiting on court date..
 

Paul McWhiskey

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Root cause is still the 8500 RPM hits. The whole thing would most likely not have occurred if a lighter right foot and lower red line like 7500 were used. Not knocking the OP, just my $0.02.
 

DougS550

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Root cause is still the 8500 RPM hits. The whole thing would most likely not have occurred if a lighter right foot and lower red line like 7500 were used. Not knocking the OP, just my $0.02.
For me, why Rev your engine so high. For me, I would either increase HP or change gearing to reach my goals. No engine is bullet proof, and to over rev it, yikes. But, I only give my own personal opinion, op can always do as he wants. Just saying.
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