Forged One Piece Wheel and Wide Tire Selection people are using Currently Recommendations

[DougS550]

Hi. First let me say first, Thank you for your Help.
I am looking to replace my OEM wheels with One Piece Forged 19" or 20" Wheels and also use wider rear tires like 325?.
I have seen past post on wheels and tires but I am wanting members thoughts and Recommendation as of today, on what company they went with for One Piece Forged Wider Wheels.
- Do you recommend staying with the 19" wheels or going up to 20" wheels and tires?
- What weight reduction did you get from the wheels?
- What do you think of the quality, are they lasting without pitting, fading etc?
- What width and offset of wheel fit you car the best?
- What wider tires did you go with? is their a width that I should stay below?
- Did you experience any Alignment issues or tracking stability issues going with these wider wheels and tires?
You Can email me if you want it private. [email protected]

Thank you all for your help
Doug

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[2morrow]

Hey OP, A couple answers. I am in the market for a set of forged wheels but have gone through 4 sets of various wheels (most are/were flow formed/flow forged/rotary forged/whatever the cool kids/companies want to call them these days. I currently have a set of 19" track wheels and 20" street wheels.

- Do you recommend staying with the 19" wheels or going up to 20" wheels and tires?
Depends what your going for and your rotor diameter. 19's for track work for sure. I like 20's for my street set up. If you have a massive set of say...GT550 rotors you'll have to go 20".

- What weight reduction did you get from the wheels?
You can expect a decent amount of weight reduction but again, depends on what you started with and what you're going to. Obviously a 20x12 wheel will weigh more than a 19x10. All relative.

- What do you think of the quality, are they lasting without pitting, fading etc?
I have not had any issues with finish on any of my wheels but again, depends on usage. I track the $hit outta my car and you have to expect damage in that environment. If you live in Chicago or even Sonoma county the potholes will kill any wheel. I also remove my wheels when detailing my car to remove all brake dust deposits.

- What width and offset of wheel fit you car the best?
I'm currently running a square 19x11 +52 offset. I run a 305 with -3.25* camber but It can accomodate a 315. I will probably do the same in a forged offering.

- What wider tires did you go with? is there a width that I should stay below?
I run a square 305 SC2 this season. Previous to that a RE-71R. I might dabble in the AR-1 or possibly a Hoosier R7 next. I (personally) wouldn't go wider on my car but have seen wider on others.

- Did you experience any Alignment issues or tracking stability issues going with these wider wheels and tires?
This is dependent on alignment. Much like timing is the key to unlock the potential of motor mods, Alignment unlocks the potential of suspension mods. Extreme alignment will track or tramline like a MF'er. if you go with a hot wheel/tire/alignment set up I would recommend finding a good performance shop and avoid places like Les Schwab, big O and other spots that hire techs right out of UTI. Make sure your alignment tech can grow some facial hair and has at least a few grays in it lol.

In closing:
Lastly, The one thing about a strong forged wheel is that if you do motorsports events (I understand if you don't) the strength of the wheel can break a suspension component rather than bend a wheel in the case of an impact. Something's got to give and I'd rather it be a wheel than a suspension piece. A few of my racer friends actually prefer a Flow-formed wheel over a forged because of 1. Cost and 2. Ease and timing of replacement in the case of an impact on-track. Another aspect of this is that a decent Forged wheel starts at 3K a set and can easily go into the 7K range for serious wheels (Forgeline, HRE, etc).

For example, my last outing at Sonoma I ran a 1:54.0 on a bent wheel. IDGAF and still sent it because my wheel sponsor got me a replacement rapidly and for cheap. A forged wheel replacement would take 4-8 weeks depending on the manufacturer and who knows the cost.

If you just drive on the streets and have a pedestrian alignment then most of those talking points don't matter. But then again you won't get the advantage of what a forged wheel can offer too.

I wish you the best of luck with your decision and let us know what you end up going with.

-Todd

 

[DougS550]

Hey OP, A couple answers. I am in the market for a set of forged wheels but have gone through 4 sets of various wheels (most are/were flow formed/flow forged/rotary forged/whatever the cool kids/companies want to call them these days. I currently have a set of 19" track wheels and 20" street wheels.

- Do you recommend staying with the 19" wheels or going up to 20" wheels and tires?
Depends what your going for and your rotor diameter. 19's for track work for sure. I like 20's for my street set up. If you have a massive set of say...GT550 rotors you'll have to go 20".

- What weight reduction did you get from the wheels?
You can expect a decent amount of weight reduction but again, depends on what you started with and what you're going to. Obviously a 20x12 wheel will weigh more than a 19x10. All relative.

- What do you think of the quality, are they lasting without pitting, fading etc?
I have not had any issues with finish on any of my wheels but again, depends on usage. I track the $hit outta my car and you have to expect damage in that environment. If you live in Chicago or even Sonoma county the potholes will kill any wheel. I also remove my wheels when detailing my car to remove all brake dust deposits.

- What width and offset of wheel fit you car the best?
I'm currently running a square 19x11 +52 offset. I run a 305 with -3.25* camber but It can accomodate a 315. I will probably do the same in a forged offering.

- What wider tires did you go with? is there a width that I should stay below?
I run a square 305 SC2 this season. Previous to that a RE-71R. I might dabble in the AR-1 or possibly a Hoosier R7 next. I (personally) wouldn't go wider on my car but have seen wider on others.

- Did you experience any Alignment issues or tracking stability issues going with these wider wheels and tires?
This is dependent on alignment. Much like timing is the key to unlock the potential of motor mods, Alignment unlocks the potential of suspension mods. Extreme alignment will track or tramline like a MF'er. if you go with a hot wheel/tire/alignment set up I would recommend finding a good performance shop and avoid places like Les Schwab, big O and other spots that hire techs right out of UTI. Make sure your alignment tech can grow some facial hair and has at least a few grays in it lol.

In closing:
Lastly, The one thing about a strong forged wheel is that if you do motorsports events (I understand if you don't) the strength of the wheel can break a suspension component rather than bend a wheel in the case of an impact. Something's got to give and I'd rather it be a wheel than a suspension piece. A few of my racer friends actually prefer a Flow-formed wheel over a forged because of 1. Cost and 2. Ease and timing of replacement in the case of an impact on-track. Another aspect of this is that a decent Forged wheel starts at 3K a set and can easily go into the 7K range for serious wheels (Forgeline, HRE, etc).

For example, my last outing at Sonoma I ran a 1:54.0 on a bent wheel. IDGAF and still sent it because my wheel sponsor got me a replacement rapidly and for cheap. A forged wheel replacement would take 4-8 weeks depending on the manufacturer and who knows the cost.

If you just drive on the streets and have a pedestrian alignment then most of those talking points don't matter. But then again you won't get the advantage of what a forged wheel can offer too.

I wish you the best of luck with your decision and let us know what you end up going with.

-Todd

Thanks Todd for the information. I don't plan on hitting the track with my car except maybe a Test and Tune night at the drag strip to race my buddies in Hellcats. I am looking for wheels which are not on every other Mustang or Hellcat etc on the road. I want them tailored to my car. I am looking at the Performance One Piece Forged T6061 wheels for they are a lot cheaper than Forgeline or HRE. I dont mind shops making a decent proffet from its customers, its just so many shops are just plan greedy, Sad.
Thanks and again, thanks
Doug

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