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Ford Reacquired Vehicle Experience - 2016 Mustang GT

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#5pointohmy
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Hello fellow Mustang enthusiasts!

Now that I'm (almost) completely done with my experience having a vehicle reacquired through the Ford Reacquired Vehicles team, I wanted to share a bit of my experience in case anyone else ever needs to go through it and is looking for some advice.

My short back story is this; I purchased my 2016 Mustang GT Premium PP (with options) in July of 2016, it was the last one like it in the state of California. It was a fantastic deal for a fantastic car for the first 3,000 miles or so. Big red flag should've popped up at 3,600 miles when my first service visit entailed not only the usual Ford quality problems (sun visor separating, poorly manufactured plastic trim, squealing brakes...) but someone, somewhere forgot to install the bolts to hold down the rear of my driver's seat tracks. As I went along it was about every 4-6 months that I would bring the car in for diagnosis and repair for significant issues. Service items ranging from the squealing brakes to the transmission getting stuck into a gear or not going into another one, shifter kick when changing gears, wheel bearing failures, an axle nut that backed off, SYNC3 issues, the infamous Coyote intake manifold issue, tar drippings on the top of my dash from when the windshield was removed and replaced during production, and many, many other mechanical and quality control issues...

3 years and about 5 months later, I contacted Ford's customer service and requested the vehicle be repurchased as a lemon. Honestly, I was surprised when it was approved. In CA, the vehicle did not explicitly meet the criteria to be considered a lemon and I figured it would have been a situation where Ford would offer me a very long extended warranty. Implicitly is another story entirely.

But this post is not about the lemon law itself or what was wrong with the car. It's specifically to talk about my experience going through the reacquired vehicle process and offer some advice for those who are going through it as well.

From my first call, approximately in the middle of November of 2019, to the final and complete surrender of the vehicle in late January, it was about 3 months to complete. The process is not over yet but the final check for the reconciliation of my Ford Credit loan balance should be in my mailbox this week.

Just like purchasing a vehicle, you can negotiate your settlement. I also recommend to take the cash offer instead of the replacement vehicle as the replacement cost is calculated as MSRP to MSRP. No incentives, no price reductions. If Ford has a $15,000 rebate on the car you want to get, you won't get it if you take the replacement offer. I highly recommend taking the cash offer and then using that check to negotiate on a new vehicle, as I am attempting on a new Explorer ST.

Some items that I could not find the answers to during my search;
1) You can negotiate everything. Ford was kind enough to reimburse me for the $1,200 set of tires I desperately needed to put on the car in November.
2) Make sure you keep your service records. At first, I was offered a mileage offset of around 19,500 miles. My first occurrence for the items Ford was reacquiring my vehicle for was at 3,600 miles. This difference equates to thousands of dollars.
3) Ford will include everything you paid for AT THE TIME OF PURCHASE. If it's on your bill of sale and final receipt, it will be reimbursed to you at the time of surrender.
4) Sometimes the dealership loses your closing packet.....this adds about 2-3 weeks onto your total process.
5) Read the documents you're signing. I only made sure the check was the correct amount to the correct person but I wound up signing a mileage statement and power of attorney for someone's 2014 Focus. My mistake, I should've read it completely. This added about a week onto the process.
6) Don't worry about your loan, the accounts will be reconciled once you surrender the vehicle. I paid forward about 3 months on my loan after I signed the settlement offer. Just make sure you keep up on your payments.
7) Ford, being so kind, will send you a private offer once the settlement offer is signed. This is good for a dollar value (it is generous, all things considered) towards the purchase of a new Ford vehicle, depending on model. I don't know if these change periodically so I won't state what mine was here. You can also contact your representative for a reissuance of the coupon should it expire before you purchase a vehicle.

There were some items I could not physically take off my vehicle. For example, the window tint and black badges I put on went along with the car. I did not ask for the reimbursement but I was told many times that Ford will under no circumstances reimburse modifications to the vehicle. So I never asked and I'm not sorry for not asking.

Today, I am still waiting for a check for the difference between my original settlement offer and the actual account reconciliation values from when I surrendered the vehicle. I paid about 3 months forward to feel what life was like without a car payment for a little while.

In total, it was not a bad process. The second representative I dealt with was very good and communicated very well. It made the overall experience easy and felt like it was transparent. From my experience, I don't think I will ever sell a car as fast as I surrendered that Mustang. It was about 4 signatures and I was handed a check. Took all of 5 minutes. Had I read the paperwork, it would have been 10 minutes.

That being said, I will miss that car as it was a hoot and a hollar and a half. If you are curious, I asked multiple people within the reacquisition team, 3 separate dealers, and Ford customer service where the cars go. I'll be honest, I wanted to find it and purchase it. It's a project to keep running but it was my project. The best answer I got was that the vehicle would be shipped to another dealer nearby to have the service department attempt repairs. If the vehicle could be completely repaired, it would be sold at auction. I could not get an answer as to where this auction is because everyone stated they did not know where it was. Some answers were local, some answers were somewhere in the US. The other options for vehicle disposition were to junk it (crush it) or to send it to Ford in MI where the engineering team would dissect it to figure out what the root cause was.

I figure that my car has already been to the auction and sold as a "manufacturer repurchased vehicle" since it had no issues at the time of surrender...except a faulty tire pressure sensor that went while I was driving it to the dealer to surrender it.

Not sure if I missed something or not but I just wanted to share my experience and offer for anyone who has a vehicle which was as poorly built as mine to reply with any questions.

Oh, and for those interested, I'm probably not going to buy another Mustang. At least not just GT.

My new car short list (as of this posting): Bronco, Escape Hybrid Titanium (they're damn good deals), Explorer ST/Plati, Outback 3.6R, Volvo S60/XC60 T6 or T8 only. Maybe an Audi S4/S6 Prestige but the dealer which has the S4 I keep trying to buy is being extremely difficult. I'm not in a rush though. Might get a used GT350 in the future too.
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Cobra Jet

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I’ve posted a lot of tech and facts regarding the Ford Buy Back processed (RAV). You can find a lot by searching my user ID and “RAV”, “Lemon”, “Lemon Law” and “Buy Back”.

The mileage offset is a “usage penalty”. It’s not applicable in every State. Each State has its own Lemon Law and provisions, penalties and processes. The mileage use penalty is based on a formula and is only applicable to the mileage accrued when the first instance of warranty repair was reported (which resulted in the Buy Back). So you’re lucky you were either told, found out or researched this aspect of your Buy Back, because yes that penalty can cost the consumer quite a bit of money. Again, this penalty is not applicable in every State.

True, Ford does not and will not reimburse for ANY aftermarket equipment installed. The owner can remove the parts on their own or pay to have them removed. If the parts are removed, the owner must replace with stock parts (or equivalent), otherwise the owner will have to pay Ford retail cost for any part that is found to be missing (or damaged) upon review of the collateral.

Buy Back Vehicle Replacement vs Refund:
Subjective. I took the Vehicle Replacement. It is MSRP to MSRP as you stated. It’s not a bad thing at all, because it’s MSRP...the highest value you could possibly get without having to “negotiate” anything. For instance as a mere example, if your original MSRP was $58k and you purchased the car at an OTD price of say $50k.... sure you made out on the initial purchase. But when it comes to RAV Vehicle Replacement, you’re now able to get another car that is equal to your original MSRP. That means you can pick out a brand new $58k vehicle - and you’re basically ahead on the deal. True, with a Vehicle Replacement no discounts apply at all (no incentives, no Ford A-X plans, no dealer discounts, no Ford Cash, etc). But again, that doesn’t matter because you’re now able to essentially get MORE car for the $$$ since you’re getting a replacement at MSRP.

Look at it this way:
$58k original MSRP
$20k left on originating loan (where you paid only $50k)
New Replacement MSRP $58k
The $20k gets rolled into a new loan.
Essentially the Owner ends up with a brand new $58k vehicle for $20k... and in some instances that owner most likely could not have afforded a true $58k loan initially.

Now the above MSRP example is very simplistic as again, Lemon Laws are different in every State. There are misc. fees, possible taxes, etc that also get wound up into a Vehicle Replacement. I’m not going into those details here, BUT have done so in the many threads I’ve posted on this site regarding the RAV Buy Back process.

Also to note:
Ford does NOT deviate from State Lemon laws; Ford adheres to those laws to the T. If a State imposes certain usage penalties or certain title fees, taxes, doc fees that are due, etc., it’s NOT Ford imposing those fees or penalties on the Consumer, it’s the Consumer’s State that is enacting those fees/penalties.

————
As far as where the RAV vehicles go, this is what happens.

The vehicle is flagged by VIN as a Lemon and that label will follow the car through its life. This labeling affects resale values, will show on any vehicle VIN report and could also affect Insurance quotes. The VIN if searched in Ford OASIS will show it’s a Lemon and was a Buy Back.

If a Ford Buy Back occurs in a State where a vehicle and its title are branded a Lemon, some States will not allow the resale of a Lemon by law.

Ford’s way around this is to use a closed auction process - pick up the vehicle, move it to a State where it can be resold, repair it and throw it on a Ford Dealer lot. After a Lemon is initially taken back, is when it goes to auction, but must be bought by a buyer from a different State IF it cannot be sold in a State that prohibits the sale or resale of a Lemon’d vehicle.

For those that don’t know, Ford also gives the Dealership who is facilitating the initial Lemon transaction money for taking the collateral back.

Ford is not loosing money on RAV Buy Backs.
0155D9E4-1793-460B-82AE-EDB02C1A758A.jpeg

———

Be sure to post your Lemon’d VIN here too:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...or-are-filing-lemon-law-for-their-s550.59015/

———

I do have a question, which I don’t understand in your post:
Why did you pay 3-mos ahead on a loan that was under a RAV Buy Back and AFTER the settlement offer?
 
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Sera550

Sera550

#5pointohmy
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I looked at it this way:

My car's MSRP: $44,495
Comparable 2020 GT: $51,295

I didn't want to pay the extra ~$6,800 on just a Mustang. There's a lot of very, very nice vehicles one can buy for $51k and change. I also had my fun with a mainstream version of the car and if I am to own another Mustang, it will be a Shelby.

This is the same issue I'm having with buying an Explorer ST, there are A LOT of true luxury vehicles that I could own for the ~$62kOTD price of an Explorer. So we'll see. I almost bought an 11 month old, 4700 mile CPO Volvo XC60 T6 R-Design P* with all of the options. Couldn't get past the fact a $47k used ($65k new) car has cloth seats. The search continues...
 

BmacIL

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Good to hear they took care of you so well. That's unexpected.

Just an FYI for future vehicles: performance brakes have a tendency to squeal some when used like a Corolla. Greasing the pad backing plate (as is recommended) and driving like you mean it takes care of that.
 

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My buy back experience was different back in2015 we got my wife a 2015 Edge SEL well the first batch of brand new Edge's had water leaks. It needed a replacement carpet but the carpets were on national back order one day I had stopped to get a couple of the wife's things out of the car and saw black mold in the floorboard so I talked to my guy at the dealer. Well he's part owner of the dealership and he started the ball rolling to get Ford to replace the car. It took about three months all total from taking it in for the water leak to getting a replacement car. Ford allowed us extra money on the buy back toward another car which the wife picked out another Edge SEL but this time it had all the bells and whistles the first car didn't have. It took a little while for everything to happen but the only bad part of the experience was having a loaner car the first loaner was a Chrysler 200 four cylinder with the 9 spd trans it was a big POS. The second loaner was a Cherokee not as big a POS as the 200 but still junk.
 
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Sera550

Sera550

#5pointohmy
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Good to hear they took care of you so well. That's unexpected.

Just an FYI for future vehicles: performance brakes have a tendency to squeal some when used like a Corolla. Greasing the pad backing plate (as is recommended) and driving like you mean it takes care of that.
Yes, performance brakes do squeal when you use them as a daily driver. But mine squealed no matter how you drove, how hot or cold they were, whether the pads were greased, if you drove it like you stole it or like a reasonable driver...this was a day 1 issue that nobody attempted to repair. My issue was much more severe and obnoxious than your “average” brake squeal. That’s not including the roughly 40 pages of other warranty complaints and repairs within the first 3 years.

...but the only bad part of the experience was having a loaner car the first loaner was a Chrysler 200 four cylinder with the 9 spd trans it was a big POS. The second loaner was a Cherokee not as big a POS as the 200 but still junk.
I was afraid of this as I thought my car was going to leave me stranded as time went on and repairs got more complex and lengthy. Luckily, it held together well enough to not leave me stranded but it got close once.
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