Ford Performance Tune for 2018+ GT

[Dfeeds]

I've seen some say it does and some says it does not. The way I interpret it is after the 3/36 is over that's it. No more warranty period.

And it's a good thing your interpretation is wrong. As has been said, about a hundred times over in this thread, once your 3/36 is over you default to your 5/60 power train warranty.

That warranty does not cover the new intake or throttle body but unless some failure directly ties to the tune (which it won't unless you like beating on it with 87 octane) you're fine.


I'll say it again, this tune DOES NOT void your 5/60 warranty. It just replaces the 3/36 with a different 3/36.

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[Dfeeds]

Sorry if this was asked and I'm sure it was but did anyone confirm if this voids the powertrain warranty after the 3/36 is over?

Please see my above post. It does not void your 5/60 powertrain warranty.

 

[spaz mk will]

I would guess that you’re right, but I’d also guess it’s more than Knock avoidance with all the crappy gas the first global Mustang is likely to see. I think their TC “on” strategy on the stock tune holds back quite a bit to avoid excessive wheelspin at low rpm, maybe especially for base model owners who have the 235 m+s tires. It was that way with my car. I suspect FP lets the car cut loose a little more at low rpm. It was also that way in my otherwise identical car with PP3, the tires would light up more easily.

my point about the torque is the torque curve is similar between the 15-17 stock tune and with PP3 installed, until high rpm. But I personally noticed different behavior at low rpm, and Im guessing it’s more than just knock avoidance on crappy gas. I don’t have a log on my stock tune to see if that’s true (probably mostly by artificially cutting throttle a bit, sorry, and everything else like timing following suit). I’ll bet the 18+ tune sees a similar strategy compared to stock which is why it feels stronger at low rpm. But I’m only speculating, I could be totally wrong.

You’re right about the torque management in low gears being a thing. I notice it separately from TC. I’m not positive it’s actually better with the FRPP tune. 1st still feels like it’s holding something back, because sometimes I’ll short shift into 2nd while being aggressive on throttle and I swear I feel more torque in 2nd at the same RPMs. Almost like a surge in power once I’m back on gas in 2. All this with no noticeable wheel slip or TC lights.



This relates to something else I’ve seen discussed in this and other threads, some variation of “the car makes so much power and I break traction all the time because of it” - I just don’t have that experience. Maybe it’s just the 235 tires on a lot of cars (like you mentioned on your PP3 car), maybe it’s auto cars or 3.73 cars (I have 3.55). But even my 255 A/S put down power fine and have a very progressive loss of traction in the limited circumstances it loses it in a straight line (like a hard 1-2 at redline) I think once you put on wide summer tires and fix the wheel hop on the S550, it actually puts power down really well; my summers don’t blink on a hard 1-2 shift. I have to drive like an unsafe asshat/really get after it in a tight turn to lose traction on the street, even with TC off. Or maybe I’m just being overly safe, who knows.

 

[Mustangpursuit]

Made a mistake today, I thought about getting my dyno to match my baseline, turns out the corrections were off on original baseline, said the system calibration was not working back in January, but uncorrected base vs my recent uncorrected dyno I gained 1 HP and lost 4 TQ.

I dynoed when it was 60 degrees F at sea level originally with 91 octane, now with my power pack this time I dynoed at same place and it was 83 degrees F. Not sure I can make out any gains or possible loss.

Maybe I should have dynoed closer to the original temp/humidity of my baseline?

Eitherway the car shifts better still, accelerates smoother, gets better mpg, and I am happy with the pack.

 

[smoke_wagon_6g]

Anyone having issues uploading their data log file on to the computer? I data logged on log 1 and log 2. I started recording and ended recording for both log files and it showed on the procal 4 handheld that it saved. I plugged the procal handheld up to my computer once it was connected, clicked Log Files-Manage-then clicked on log 1 under log files, and clicked graph, but nothing happens. same for when I click on log 2 and graph. and when i double click graph, it says log file not found. I saved the files on my desktop but when i open the excel spreadsheet, its just a bunch of numbers and not in graph form. Anyone experience this?

My Excel is smart enough to recognize a CSV file and generates a pretty, huge, spreadsheet. When you open in Excel be sure to specify CSV. I was prompted.

The stock Ford software also sometimes hangs for a minute on large log files.

But if it's just datalogging you want there are other ways. You don't even have to use a Procal, windows or a laptop at all unless you're actually uploading a tune. And I'd keep the Procal in a safe place in case you need to revert the tune or Ford updates it. They're expensive.

One solution:

I currently use a "Kiwi 3" bluetooth OBD II connnector dongle for datalogging right into the Forscan Lite app on an iPad. It's decent, and you can analyze right there.

But if you want to go further you can just email the CSV log file to yourself right from the app. Since it's now in your email you can open it in the Office or Google Docs or iPad Numbers for any graphing you want to do.

You don't even have to leave the car.

 

[RoGCobraRV]

Is their any need to "mount" the procal tool on the dash somewhere for continued datalogging or constant engine parameter readings? Or is it completely unnecessary?

 

[kz]

Is their any need to "mount" the procal tool on the dash somewhere for continued datalogging or constant engine parameter readings? Or is it completely unnecessary?

Completely unnecessary unless you really feel like you want a log...

 

[StangTime]

Is their any need to "mount" the procal tool on the dash somewhere for continued datalogging or constant engine parameter readings? Or is it completely unnecessary?

No not at all. But do store it in a safe place (not in the car) in case you ever need to revert back to your factory tune. Also because it's an expensive part of the kit and having it stolen or damaged would really suck.

 

[Schwerin]

Made a mistake today, I thought about getting my dyno to match my baseline, turns out the corrections were off on original baseline, said the system calibration was not working back in January, but uncorrected base vs my recent uncorrected dyno I gained 1 HP and lost 4 TQ.

I dynoed when it was 60 degrees F at sea level originally with 91 octane, now with my power pack this time I dynoed at same place and it was 83 degrees F. Not sure I can make out any gains or possible loss.

Maybe I should have dynoed closer to the original temp/humidity of my baseline?

Eitherway the car shifts better still, accelerates smoother, gets better mpg, and I am happy with the pack.

How were the overall curves though? Lot more to the numbers than just peak numbers.

 

[Mustangpursuit]

How were the overall curves though? Lot more to the numbers than just peak numbers.

Pattern looks same? Red is stock on 55F ambient temp and Blue is FP Pack on 83F day ambient temp, same location/dyno

Maybe its my driving pattern that may have messed up the learning? short work commute. car is already 3 years old and only 10K miles.

 

[opengl]

I think a good amount of the noticeable gains are under 3k which don't really show up on a dyno

 

[boB]

I think a good amount of the noticeable gains are under 3k which don't really show up on a dyno

Yep, Ford notes a big gain in torque at 2000 rpm. I suspect most dyno charts don't show anything below 3000 to avoid showing no gains from a tune or even less than stock.

 

[Mustangpursuit]

Yep, Ford notes a big gain in torque at 2000 rpm. I suspect most dyno charts don't show anything below 3000 to avoid showing no gains from a tune or even less than stock.

At least it shifts better and feels more streetable to me.

 

[Baldilocks]

At least it shifts better and feels more streetable to me.

The shifting is terrible on these cars. I'm not sure why Ford doesn't correct that without the Ford Performance Tune.

The GM version of the same transmission is much better out of the box.

 

[WildHorse]

Yep, Ford notes a big gain in torque at 2000 rpm. I suspect most dyno charts don't show anything below 3000 to avoid showing no gains from a tune or even less than stock.

Fine for when your putting around. Great for stock stall automatics at the strip. Does nothing for manual guys launching at 3/4k at the strip.

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