Ford Performance Tune for 2018+ GT

[Torey3]

Wonder why they didn’t utilize the factory hood count out to pull from? Maybe moisture.

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[Dave2013M3]

Does the intake suck air out of the hood vent or does it press up where the vent is not? Maybe a pic of the invention would be good?

Presses where the hood vent is not, just in front of it.

 

[Fordohio]

So if someone was to just make a lid for this. Would it fix all the problems?

 

[Dave2013M3]

So if someone was to just make a lid for this. Would it fix all the problems?

What problems? I have 0 issues...

 

[spaz mk will]

Wonder why they didn’t utilize the factory hood count out to pull from? Maybe moisture.

The hood vents, which are small but technically functional, are there to release some of the incoming air from the main grille/radiator area and a little bit of heat. Even though the regular Mustangs aren’t purpose built for aerodynamics, it would be a regression to use that vent for intake; it’s also much smaller than the nose intake area.

These style of intakes have some benefit under constant motion/airflow, such as on a road course. There isn’t anything wrong with them per se, but to answer @Fordohio they do have a tradeoff compared to the factory closed box, which has good flow and generally handles IATs better in regular stop and go street use.

Even with the “bad IATs” this box has, it’s really not a problem with DD unless you’re concerned in a drag racing scenario also (not my thing, just what I’ve gathered from reading here)

 

[Dave2013M3]

The box actually seals against the hood pretty good. The reason it gets hot is the heat coming off the driver side header radiates against the box pretty bad. The CAI is made of quite thin plastic vs. the regular production piece, which is built like a tank. I bought some adhesive heattape to see if it helps insulate it against the header heat.

 

[cmxPPL219]

Update since Install of M-9603-M8B Kit:

Hood Alignment:
Regarding the hood alignment issue, I'm one of the few that had it, even after ensuring that the bolt that holds the intake filter "tub" assembly was fully bolted down, and the top filter tub "cap" that has the rubber seal, had the clips all situated right.

However, as I guessed, after a few days of driving, the weight of the hood has slightly pushed down onto the rubber seal, and now the insulator has more indentation from it - as a result, the gap I saw on day 1 has closed slightly now, and alignment is better.

Driving Impressions Update:
I've used 2 full tanks of 94, and have driven a couple hundred kms now, lots of highway and city mix. The car pulls slightly better as expected with 94 and after learning the fuel trims. I also notice that AFRs stay pretty close to 14 or thereabouts. Fuel economy seems mostly unchanged.

Echoing what most have said, Normal now feels like Sport; Sport feels like Track; and Track now feels really good. Again, not a night and day difference in performance, but there is just a lot more usable power / acceleration now, from 2k rpm, all the way to redline, compared to pre-install. Real happy with the kit, despite the minor issues!

FP Air-Oil separator / Catch Can Fitment Issue:
I know some made it work (albeit without the bracket) but I've had no such luck, after finagling with the hoses (including swapping in the flexible UPR hoses from my old UPR Plug n Play separator, in place of the Ford moulded hoses) and just not getting a satisfactory fit without the hoses and the separator rubbing on things.

The oil separator topic is like a can of worms, I know some don't believe it does anything. However, I will say that in all my time driving and having catch cans, they work - full stop.

For example, during this short time I've had this FP 2018 GT PP Tune Installed, I decided to temporarily hook up my old UPR Plug n Play Short Hose catch can - I made it work, it fit canted, and is rubbing slightly on the coolant degas (overflow) tank.
Now, because I just installed the kit, I've been "testing" it out, doing more full throttle runs than normal, etc. In just a few hundred kms, checking yesterday, there was about a teaspoon worth of oil collected.
Here's the practical observation part - those who read my initial post of the install adventure may recall that I installed the longer UPR hose as the PCV breather hose initially, because the OEM one was rubbing the throttle body, and putting pressure on the PCV valve spouts / spigots. (Some may not have had this issue - must be generous tolerances in the moulding process of the hoses) Anyway, in those initial drives, it felt like the car was pulling timing during some "spirited" runs and acceleration. The next day, I put the separator on, and didn't feel the same from the car. Essentially, the oil vapours getting sucked in was probably reducing the effective octane of the gas, and all the other negative things that oil blowby can cause in the combustion process. LS Short - Especially if you drive the in a car spirited manner, particularly post-install of this tune, as it requires 91, a catch can is a very, very good idea.

Anyway, to a more permanent catch can solution that is more properly integrated and installed, I decided to just say screw it, and ordered the following, also from UPR, but their front-mounted oil separator unit (more $ than the simple short hose UPR unit )

https://www.uprproducts.com/18-20-m...ch-can-with-clean-side-separator-plug-n-play/

(Note: from UPR website, not my car - currently have the unit on order )

 

[cmxPPL219]

The hood vents, which are small but technically functional, are there to release some of the incoming air from the main grille/radiator area and a little bit of heat. Even though the regular Mustangs aren’t purpose built for aerodynamics, it would be a regression to use that vent for intake; it’s also much smaller than the nose intake area.

These style of intakes have some benefit under constant motion/airflow, such as on a road course. There isn’t anything wrong with them per se, but to answer @Fordohio they do have a tradeoff compared to the factory closed box, which has good flow and generally handles IATs better in regular stop and go street use.

Even with the “bad IATs” this box has, it’s really not a problem with DD unless you’re concerned in a drag racing scenario also (not my thing, just what I’ve gathered from reading here)

This - well said, and completely agree.

Another thing I'd add to what I mentioned in my Update post, post-install, is that despite the quick rise in IATs at idle, to temps higher than with the OEM closed box, I've noticed that much of the responsiveness in acceleration is still there, despite the rise in temps. So, although technically, timed runs would be affected due to the higher temps, the actual response via the butt dyno still feels it, at least in my driving, so it isn't much of an issue. The key really is in the tune that is installed, I surmise. It's mild and conservative, but it's paired well.

 

[Chef jpd]

Prior to my install, I put 2 layers of gold heat reflective tape on the entire bottom and sides of the lower air box.
I have noticed no intense heat soak in traffic. IAT's have never been any higher than 120 in standstill traffic on a 90 degree day. While moving, I never see any higher than 5 degrees over ambient.

I say Success........

 

[green97probe]

I checked the hood blanket on my GT, and the connector isn't rubbing.

I did cut 1" off the tube prior to installing the elbow per the instructions.

 

[bigmixx]

After reading this thread for the past I decided to order this kit and installed it myself today. Everything went together great. Took a couple of hours as I was being extra careful not to break anything. I took it for a quick drive and I immediately noticed the improvement in shifting. Mainly the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts because the rev hang is pretty much gone. That in itself was worth the cost of the kit. It's dry today so I'll get a chance to check the butt dyno but so far I'm happy with it.

 

[Smunczen]

I really wish Ford would’ve gone about this kit from a whole different angle.

1) Tune and filter would’ve been sufficient.

2) The FP open air box adds some flash but they should’ve just made one that retains the stock MAF & TB.

I bought the kit last year and have done nothing with it. The more I read the less I want to even fuss with it. Between the clocked throttle body, intake tube fitment, brake aspirator tube clearance and hood gap issues it’s kind of disheartening.

I’ve had no issues with mine and it for perfect. Runs great.

 

[spaz mk will]

It’s really surprising how much smoother the MT-82 cars are to drive with this kit. Just Putting around DD or driving hard, it’s just better. The factory tunes rev hang is so obviously bad once it’s gone.

 

[cmxPPL219]

It’s really surprising how much smoother the MT-82 cars are to drive with this kit. Just Putting around DD or driving hard, it’s just better. The factory tunes rev hang is so obviously bad once it’s gone.

This

 

[bigmixx]

It’s really surprising how much smoother the MT-82 cars are to drive with this kit. Just Putting around DD or driving hard, it’s just better. The factory tunes rev hang is so obviously bad once it’s gone.

Exactly. The rev hang is the worst part of owning the car. I've driven so many manual cars over my lifetime and this is the only one that had that issue. Who pushes the clutch and waits 2-3 seconds to go into the next gear just so your shift can be smooth.

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