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Ford Performance Tune for 2018+ GT

StangTime

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Schwerin

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You have a manual? You will appreciate the reduced rev hang. In normal mode the car pulls away from a stop with far less effort. In sport mode the car forces you to shift faster and drive it more aggressively. The car just wants to go. I haven't driven in track mode yet. I need to find an open road where nobody is around. I also want to try out the "no lift shift" feature that the tune is supposedly supporting.
Mind you, I have the PP1 that comes with the Torsen diff with 3.73 gears and that adds to this kit's performance to really helps to get the car moving.

One possible negative... I have noticed the MT82 transmission is a smidge notchier from 1-2-3. Maybe the extra torque is causing the transmission and shifter bracket to misalign more. That could just be me though. I'm still re-learning how to drive it with the extra horsepower and torque.

Transmission variations aside, I think it's safe to say this kit gives us Bullitt/Mach1 level performance on our GT's assuming installation on a PP1/PP2 level vehicle? The whole air intake/throttle body are basically the same.
I'd actually like to see a dyno of this tune a Bullitt and a Mach1. As the Bullitt and mach1 are production vehicles that need to hit MPG goals I wouldnt be amazed if the Tune is a bit more aggressive. I also wouldn't be surprised if the Mach1 is slightly more than the Bullitt due to ECU refinement and possible parts revision.
 

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I saw a report here, possibly in the UK forum, where I think somebody from the UK got it. There was some minor confusion/problems mentioned, but I believe an "export" version of the tune was provided by FP. Hopefully that member will speak up here, but if not, I suggest asking in the UK forum.
Thanks I’ll check it out.
 

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You have a manual? You will appreciate the reduced rev hang. In normal mode the car pulls away from a stop with far less effort. In sport mode the car forces you to shift faster and drive it more aggressively. The car just wants to go. I haven't driven in track mode yet. I need to find an open road where nobody is around. I also want to try out the "no lift shift" feature that the tune is supposedly supporting.
Mind you, I have the PP1 that comes with the Torsen diff with 3.73 gears and that adds to this kit's performance to really helps to get the car moving.

One possible negative... I have noticed the MT82 transmission is a smidge notchier from 1-2-3. Maybe the extra torque is causing the transmission and shifter bracket to misalign more. That could just be me though. I'm still re-learning how to drive it with the extra horsepower and torque.

Transmission variations aside, I think it's safe to say this kit gives us Bullitt/Mach1 level performance on our GT's assuming installation on a PP1/PP2 level vehicle? The whole air intake/throttle body are basically the same.
Yes, it's a base 300A GT with the MT82 and the 3.55 rear.

I do have the Ford Performance short throw shifter installed as well.
 

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StangTime

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Yes, it's a base 300A GT with the MT82 and the 3.55 rear.

I do have the Ford Performance short throw shifter installed as well.
I don't know how much more torque 3.73 gets you over 3.55 gearing. Maybe someone with more knowledge than I will know the net difference. Short throw shifter will help you in terms of shift speed.
 

Dave2013M3

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Then it could just be me and how I am shifting.
What year is your car
I don't know how much more torque 3.73 gets you over 3.55 gearing. Maybe someone with more knowledge than I will know the net difference. Short throw shifter will help you in terms of shift speed.

The engine isn't making more torque with the 3.73s than the 3.55s. It is putting down more torque to the ground than the 3.55s but less time in the curve.
 

StangTime

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What year is your car

The engine isn't making more torque with the 3.73s than the 3.55s. It is putting down more torque to the ground than the 3.55s but less time in the curve.
2019

And tire diameter will affect the torque put down. I think the difference between the 3.73 gears with 27.7" dia tires (PP1) vs 3.55 gears with 27.3" dia tires (base) is pretty much a wash.
 

Dave2013M3

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2019

And tire diameter will affect the torque put down. I think the difference between the 3.73 gears with 27.7" dia tires (PP1) vs 3.55 gears with 27.3" dia tires (base) is pretty much a wash.

No the 3.73s will still have more torque multiplication by quite a bit. Tire diameter would have to drop to a 26.3" to equal a 3.73 car.

Heres a cool calculator you can play with...you have to add the correct ratios for the MT82D4 which are.

tranny ratios



1st. 3.24:1
2nd 2.10:1
3rd 1.42"1
4th 1:1
5th .81:1
6th .62:1

Now do a 4.09:1 ratio and thats where the real fun begins!!
 
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Dfeeds

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Finished installing the FP kit last night. Drove around for nearly 2 hours today and had a blast with the car! It drives altogether different in a better way. Rev hang is nearly non-existent and throttle response is much better. To shift smoothly, before the tune, I had to do a 2 second pause after pushing in the clutch. No longer have to do that. It's also a little louder and the exhaust tone is deeper. Another thing I noticed was being able to pass in 6th gear with greater ease. Cruising at highway speed I would sometimes lazily stay in 6th gear just pushing my foot down and waiting for the car to speed up. Now, it just does it in half the time and without any laboring. This was running on a tank of 91 octane. I burned through half a tank today and topped off with 94 octane. Really happy with this kit and how it woke up the car.
20210406_221206.jpg


Installation wasn't hard but it was a PITA. The air inlet to the throttle body wouldn't cooperate to install it all the way over the flange. So I am hoping the heat from the engine will loosen it up to allow me to clamp it all the way on. I have about a 1/8" further to push it on even though the bottom edge is completely on.

My other issue was that stupid foam seal on the air box. I played around with that damn thing for far too long to get it where it was supposed to be. Every picture of this kit I have seen has not had the foam installed correctly. It is supposed to seal around the painted metal bracket that protrudes into the air box. You will need to hold the foam back (towards the fender) while putting the top of the box on. Then hold it while you tighten it down. An extra pair of hands would help. The foam could get torn so don't force it beyond it's limits. Most installs leave a gap on the back side of the foam and that allows hot air to get in.

Here is how I did mine. Sealed all around:
20210406_221044.jpg


How NOT to do it:
20210407_132734.jpg

The hard foam backing is on the wrong side of the air box upper half. The hard foam needs to be on the outside of the box.

How it should be:
The hard backing on the foam piece has to be on the outside of the box from front to back. The top part of the air box sits on top of the soft foam edge to create a seal.
20210406_220924.jpg

20210406_220930.jpg

20210406_220903.jpg


Hopefully that saves someone some headaches and lowers some people's IAT's.

I noticed there is a vertical gap in the back of the air box where the two halves meet. Not sure if this is by design to allow some air through? It l looks like an easy place to seal with some adhesive foam and to get some before and after temperature data. A project for a rainy day.
The way you have yours is just not physically possible for me. My box sits too high and to the right. I can get it if I push down on the box (like the hood would probably do) but the moment I let off it pops back up and the foam piece moves out of place. I untightened the top piece and held it down while retightening it but had no luck. I tried to make sure everything lined up just right before closing the hood so maybe a couple of heat cycles will reshape it. Who knows.



Side note to everyone: the top seal is exposed to varying temps. Don't forget to clean it and condition it so it doesn't harden up and crack.
 

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StangTime

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The way you have yours is just not physically possible for me. My box sits too high and to the right. I can get it if I push down on the box (like the hood would probably do) but the moment I let off it pops back up and the foam piece moves out of place. I untightened the top piece and held it down while retightening it but had no luck. I tried to make sure everything lined up just right before closing the hood so maybe a couple of heat cycles will reshape it. Who knows.
Odd. It shouldn't move much at all. Mine feels pretty solid. Are you sure you have the bottom alignment pin of the air box in the hole in the sheet metal?
 

Dfeeds

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Odd. It shouldn't move much at all. Mine feels pretty solid. Are you sure you have the bottom alignment pin of the air box in the hole in the sheet metal?
Positive. It's the top piece of the box that sticks up, the bottom is fine. It's almost like the molding is warped. At the end where the foam goes my top piece is just propped up. So much so that the plastic pin on the bottom half, where the two pieces meet, can get stuck in the groove. I gotta feeling that's exactly what happened and now the plastic is just stuck. I may try to see if I can get it held down and see if a few heat cycles reshapes it.
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