Bluemustang
Well-Known Member
My 2015 had it very recently after an oil change. Pennzoil UP 5W30 and MoS2 cured it. The PUP alone did not do it - put in the MoS2 additive and in a day or two it disappeared. Give it a try.
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Ford buy back attempt 2018 Mustang GT “typewriter tick/rattle.”
- Thread starter Ibleedblue5.0
- Start date
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- #17
WTF is a "factory assembled vehicle"?? Guess what, ALL cars screwed together on an assembly line are "factory assembled". So what? Do you think that just because someone unbolted the transmission and removed/re-installed it, means that your car is now "non-factory assembled". Give me a break...
And my next statement is going to be a bit harsh, but I don't really care:
Why anyone, and I mean anyone would pay $40K for a factory-stock, (new or not) naturally-aspirated S550 Mustang has far more money the brains!
Do you have any idea how many premium optioned, S550 Mustangs (without the "tick") are for sale right now in the mid-to-high $20K range?? Do you...??
Jmtoast
Well-Known Member
heard the tick so I upgraded my exhaust and added a noisy supercharger that happens to scream like a woman who just had a mouse run over her foot. Problem went away... I think.
Sivi70980
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But are they new new?
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Strokerswild
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I just bought a new F-150 with the 5.0 to bookend my Mustang, and the truck forums are rife with similar threads. Beyond a little more noise due to the DI, it clatters like I figured it would. And guess what - if it develops anything I'll just make sure it's got oil in it and drive it until it blows and warranty will take care of it. If said blowup happens within the powertrain warranty it goes bye bye soon after the warranty is up.
rebellovw
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It is funny what you see sometimes when you click "show ignored content". I'll keep my engine Ford factory assembled vs dealer fumbled with - if you don't know the difference - there is no help for you.
Sivi70980
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This is the second time I ordered myself new car, I might be a bit of a snob but I don't think I'll ever buy something off the lot ever again. I know it's better to shop for deals and save boat loads of cash but I prefer things just the way I want them whenever I can make it happen. I thank my wife daily for putting up with me lol.
Jmtoast
Well-Known Member
To be honest I go the other way. This is the first new car I've bought in 9 years. I like to buy cheap transportation and spend nothing on insurance. Throw a couple grand in the bank for repairs and call it a day. This car infected me. I had to have it. I obsessed day and night over it. I tried to shame myself for making such a poor financial decision but I didn't care. I bought it anyways, tick and all.
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Sivi70980
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Agree, after someone messes with something brand new, it's never the same. My interior panels near the rear window were installed wrong from the factory. Dealership "fixed" it and now at 3300 miles I have a rattle back there when I drive on certain roads that will only get worse.
Sivi70980
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I totally agree with the more financially sound strategy but I've always wanted nicer cars. My last car (2009 Mini Cooper JCW) I bought used in 2011 and loved it. Got great use out of it and then, like you got bit hard by the S550 bug. Test drove a couple 18's and ordered my 19. 2K rattle was noticed in the first week, BBQ tick is about 5 weeks old. I read all about them on this forum while I was waiting for my order so I've been prepared. Could have and should have kept the mini and daily drove it till it died but I wouldn't have.
Back on topic though, with everything else on the planet to worry about, I'm fine taking the blue pill when it comes to these sounds lol.
Hidalgo
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At this point with the Mass of information we, (owners) and they (ford) have on this engine all you can do is take it to the dealer with your complaint.
Let them take a "L
K" at it without tearing it apart. so it is documented. I can't see Ford now going very far into it with what they know (TSP).
Just making sure it is not something else you hear, and a different problem. Just make sure the dealer has a reputable tech that is put on your Mustang.
But lay this out to your service adviser before leaving the car in their hands. Look, diagnostic, then call and evaluate. Once your have it documented, your done.
Enjoy Your Ride!
Let them take a "L
K" at it without tearing it apart. so it is documented. I can't see Ford now going very far into it with what they know (TSP).Just making sure it is not something else you hear, and a different problem. Just make sure the dealer has a reputable tech that is put on your Mustang.
But lay this out to your service adviser before leaving the car in their hands. Look, diagnostic, then call and evaluate. Once your have it documented, your done.
Enjoy Your Ride!
Cobra Jet
Well-Known Member
To proceed with a Buy Back:
1) You should know and be versed in your Home State’s Lemon Law. Every State has different Lemon Law provisions and processes. Ford and Ford RAV adhere to those State Lemon Laws and do not deviate from them.
2) Depending on State Lemon Law the qualifications for a Lemon could be:
A) 30 consecutive days inop at Service Center
B) 30 Calendar Days within the year for repairs
C) 3 total attempts by the vehicle Manufacturer to remedy or fix the redundant concern. Only after the 3rd attempt, if the concern is still present may the vehicle qualify for Lemon Law.
D) Concern is reported and documented within 2 years OR 24k miles of the original purchase date.
Also to note, depending on your Home State, you could be docked or penalized vehicle usage fees.
So for instance if your State penalizes for vehicle use, if the concern was initially reported at say (totally random figure here) 5,000 miles - there is a formula the State has in the Lemon Law provisions. That formula has a dollar value and says to multiply said value by miles used. Whatever that figure turns out to be, it will either be deducted from any payout (if you elect to get a complete refund and walk away from Ford) OR if you are doing a vehicle replacement, it will be added into the RAV Worksheet and you are responsible for paying that penalty. Either it gets paid by cash or it gets rolled into the new loan.
So be sure to review your State Lemon Law and look for any mileage penalty.
You also have (2) RAV Buy Back options:
1) Refund = You get a check from Ford and walk away. Any penalties or fees are deducted from the check.
2) Vehicle Replacement = You can choose any Ford product as long as the MSRP is EQUAL to your original MSRP. That is the bottom line found on the Window Sticker, period. Rebates, any type of discounts, Ford A-X Plans, Dealer Incentives, other incentives, etc. do NOT apply at all. It is strictly MSRP to MSRP replacement. If you select a replacement vehicle where the MSRP is higher, you are responsible for covering the delta either by cash or rolling it into the new loan.
IF you elect to go vehicle replacement also note you will be responsible for:
1) any fees associated with:
Title
Registration
DMV Doc fees
Dealership processing fees
Taxes (IF there is a delta between MSRP’s)
Taxes for any misc State mandatory processing fees
2) Damages to your collateral. Yes, Ford RAV has a Mandatory inspection process the Dealership must adhere to when taking your collateral back. They check the inside and outside of the vehicle based on RAV instructions. If there are damages you will be responsible for the cost of repair based on Ford pricing (body shop, Service Center or parts) and that is expected to be paid in full at time of releasing your vehicle back to Ford. Either pay cash or roll into new loan.
3) If you have any aftermarket parts on the car it’s your responsibility to get those removed if you are wanting to keep them; stock parts must go back in place.
4) If there is an existing loan balance on the car, it’s your responsibility to provide Ford RAV with the loan payoff value. You are to continue payments until the vehicle has been released back to Ford. You are to work with your current lender and the Dealership to square away the paperwork related to the collateral swap and financing of the existing loan balance that will be rolled over to a new loan - Ford RAV does not get involved in this process. IF you will be financing the replacement vehicle, yes you are susceptible to another Credit inquiry and it will impact your credit score rating.
—
The above is just the skinny of it....
Expect the Ford RAV process to be tedious and stressful.
Feel free to search my user ID and the word “RAV” or Buy Back... you’ll find a shit ton of factual info I posted regarding the entire process, examples of MSRP to MSRP values, RAV inspection process and posts from others who also went through the process.
So also note that Ford has released (2) TSB’s that basically state the engine ticking and the engine knock are “normal”. I posted both of the SSM and TSB on this site. So it’s not as easy for folks today to claim “Lemon” on 2018-19’s UNLESS there is very compelling findings by the Service Dept and/or FSE of genuine internal damages or concerns that will affect immediate longevity.
SSM for 5.0 Engine Ticking:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...iter-tick”-is-a-normal-characteristic.116925/
TSB thread where I posted TSB doc for the 5.0 Engine Knocking (see Post # 15):
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/new-tsb-for-engine-knock.122011/
1) You should know and be versed in your Home State’s Lemon Law. Every State has different Lemon Law provisions and processes. Ford and Ford RAV adhere to those State Lemon Laws and do not deviate from them.
2) Depending on State Lemon Law the qualifications for a Lemon could be:
A) 30 consecutive days inop at Service Center
B) 30 Calendar Days within the year for repairs
C) 3 total attempts by the vehicle Manufacturer to remedy or fix the redundant concern. Only after the 3rd attempt, if the concern is still present may the vehicle qualify for Lemon Law.
D) Concern is reported and documented within 2 years OR 24k miles of the original purchase date.
Also to note, depending on your Home State, you could be docked or penalized vehicle usage fees.
So for instance if your State penalizes for vehicle use, if the concern was initially reported at say (totally random figure here) 5,000 miles - there is a formula the State has in the Lemon Law provisions. That formula has a dollar value and says to multiply said value by miles used. Whatever that figure turns out to be, it will either be deducted from any payout (if you elect to get a complete refund and walk away from Ford) OR if you are doing a vehicle replacement, it will be added into the RAV Worksheet and you are responsible for paying that penalty. Either it gets paid by cash or it gets rolled into the new loan.
So be sure to review your State Lemon Law and look for any mileage penalty.
You also have (2) RAV Buy Back options:
1) Refund = You get a check from Ford and walk away. Any penalties or fees are deducted from the check.
2) Vehicle Replacement = You can choose any Ford product as long as the MSRP is EQUAL to your original MSRP. That is the bottom line found on the Window Sticker, period. Rebates, any type of discounts, Ford A-X Plans, Dealer Incentives, other incentives, etc. do NOT apply at all. It is strictly MSRP to MSRP replacement. If you select a replacement vehicle where the MSRP is higher, you are responsible for covering the delta either by cash or rolling it into the new loan.
IF you elect to go vehicle replacement also note you will be responsible for:
1) any fees associated with:
Title
Registration
DMV Doc fees
Dealership processing fees
Taxes (IF there is a delta between MSRP’s)
Taxes for any misc State mandatory processing fees
2) Damages to your collateral. Yes, Ford RAV has a Mandatory inspection process the Dealership must adhere to when taking your collateral back. They check the inside and outside of the vehicle based on RAV instructions. If there are damages you will be responsible for the cost of repair based on Ford pricing (body shop, Service Center or parts) and that is expected to be paid in full at time of releasing your vehicle back to Ford. Either pay cash or roll into new loan.
3) If you have any aftermarket parts on the car it’s your responsibility to get those removed if you are wanting to keep them; stock parts must go back in place.
4) If there is an existing loan balance on the car, it’s your responsibility to provide Ford RAV with the loan payoff value. You are to continue payments until the vehicle has been released back to Ford. You are to work with your current lender and the Dealership to square away the paperwork related to the collateral swap and financing of the existing loan balance that will be rolled over to a new loan - Ford RAV does not get involved in this process. IF you will be financing the replacement vehicle, yes you are susceptible to another Credit inquiry and it will impact your credit score rating.
—
The above is just the skinny of it....
Expect the Ford RAV process to be tedious and stressful.
Feel free to search my user ID and the word “RAV” or Buy Back... you’ll find a shit ton of factual info I posted regarding the entire process, examples of MSRP to MSRP values, RAV inspection process and posts from others who also went through the process.
So also note that Ford has released (2) TSB’s that basically state the engine ticking and the engine knock are “normal”. I posted both of the SSM and TSB on this site. So it’s not as easy for folks today to claim “Lemon” on 2018-19’s UNLESS there is very compelling findings by the Service Dept and/or FSE of genuine internal damages or concerns that will affect immediate longevity.
SSM for 5.0 Engine Ticking:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...iter-tick”-is-a-normal-characteristic.116925/
TSB thread where I posted TSB doc for the 5.0 Engine Knocking (see Post # 15):
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/new-tsb-for-engine-knock.122011/
Ibleedblue5.0
Member
- Thread starter
- #30
[Do you have any idea how many premium optioned, S550 Mustangs (without the "tick") are for sale right now in the mid-to-high $20K range?? Do you...??[/QUOTE]
Chill out buddy idk if your trying to sell me a car or be helpful.... I also don’t know if your parents bought you your pony but new stangs start @30k all day. IDC what price you find a used one for, everybody gets taxed purchasing new, value depreciates driving it off the lot but there ain’t no better feeling!... Then comes the tick/rattle lol
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