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Ford buy back attempt 2018 Mustang GT “typewriter tick/rattle.”

ChromaticGrey

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Because the bbq tick isn't what is being associated with the DI pump. I'm going to give the benefit of the doubt, because statements like yours irritate me, but that's the kind of misinformation that really confuses people (and perhaps you, spread from another). The 2k rpm rattle is being associated with the DI pump, which only the 18+ MY has. The bbq tick is what has been around since the gen 1 coyote. THAT sound is thought to be many things from out of spec crankshaft bearings to oil cavitation. Don't mix the two up, please.
We are saying the same thing. The DI is not the cause of the BBQ tick is what i said, i believe it's something else, but not sure what. But a lot of people do lump the "DI" with the "BBQ tick", which i disagree with.
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Dfeeds

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We are saying the same thing. The DI is not the cause of the BBQ tick is what i said, i believe it's something else, but not sure what. But a lot of people do lump the "DI" with the "BBQ tick", which i disagree with.
The way you worded it implied that the DI pump was a consideration, so I apologize. Every thread about this seems to start on track until everything gets out of whack.

To clear things up, before this post is lost in oblivion, around the start of the 19MY production there were 3 sounds being brought up very frequently.

The first was the 2k rattle that some people associated with cylinder wall scoring (ie, the rattle was piston slap). However, every single 18/19 GT I've heard has the rattle, and not every 18/19 GT has cylinder wall scoring. Other theories cropped up and this eventually believed by the majority to either me from the HPFP (DI pump) or caused by a plate around the transmission/bellhousing area. I personally have this on the new and old longblock, it's quieter to nonexistent once warm. It seems to be muffled after driving in the rain. I'm not losing sleep over it, nor should anyone else.

The second is a thudding sound that can be mistaken for low end issues. This has seemed to be a byproduct of the stretchy belt for the A/C, and getting a tensioner fixes the sound. No evidence that this causes an issue. I have this on the new and old longblock, at least I did. I haven't noticed it since the borla S type install. Not worth losing sleep over.

The third is the bbq tick, which has caused fear and havoc since 2011 on multiple forums. It's called the bbq tick because it can sound like an igniter on a grill, albeit not as rhythmic. Ford released a TSB stating this is normal. Many theories floating around about this. I, personally, have this in spurts. Some days it's stupid loud, some days it's quiet, some days I won't hear it at all. There seems to be a correlation with how hot it is outside, to when I hear it. The better the day to have the bbq, the more likely I'll have the bbq tick. Old engine never made the tick, new one obviously does. I never drove my car, before the longblock replacement, in temps above 60° F. The old longblock may very well have also had it if I used the car in warmer weather.


There's plenty more sounds, too, but those three were the most popular and most often referenced. Hopefully this clears up some things for anyone tuning into the thread. The OP wants a buyback due to the rattle. My car was out of commission for two weeks with a case opened up with RAV within two weeks of the original diagnosis. The RAV department didn't contact me for a month, at which point the short block replacement turned into a long block replacement. Short block replacement was approved after metal shavings were discovered in the oil filter. Long block replacement was approved after the tear down revealed heavy damage and scoring to the exhaust side camshaft of the passenger side head. When RAV finally contacted me, they put up no fight with getting a buy back after the final diagnosis. I followed my gut and declined it. New engine is great, end of story.
 

liv2roc

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I have the BBQ tick and I have a replacement long block and its a 17 model. it started at my 1st oil change but I put in a bottle of Ceratec and its been quit for about 3000 miles so far.
 

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Because the bbq tick isn't what is being associated with the DI pump. I'm going to give the benefit of the doubt, because statements like yours irritate me, but that's the kind of misinformation that really confuses people (and perhaps you, spread from another). The 2k rpm rattle is being associated with the DI pump, which only the 18+ MY has. The bbq tick is what has been around since the gen 1 coyote. THAT sound is thought to be many things from out of spec crankshaft bearings to oil cavitation. Don't mix the two up, please.
Considering there is no 100% final conclusion pinpointing exactly what causes these noises I think it's not fair to say his comment is not misinformation.

My 2017 GT has had the 2k rattle since 5000 miles when I bought it. Every single day at work when I start it up and drive off I have a stretch of road with a metal barrier and bridge highway overpass and a few after that on on the right side of the car and I hear the consistent metallic rattling noise around +-2000 rpm, I really think it's there at all rpms but it's just more noticeable because at 2000 rpm the car is still sort of quiet as far as exhaust goes.

I have zero codes and it's not pinging it's the same exact 2000 rattle people are saying is from DI cars 18+ so it's not DI. I can even get it at idle when I rev it up to around 2000.

I recently installed TSB 12-8-14 myself which is for the air conditioner tensioner pulley and guess what, the 2k rpm rattle is no longer audible but now I hear a very soft slight inconsistent tap once in a while, just a single tap.

Now I have had a 13 GT also and it had a few instances where it made the typewriter tick and then went away.

All of these noises are exactly the same tap I can 100% confirm it is the same noise from the same source. I have serious OCD lol and have tried stethoscopes etc

I am 100% positive that across all years 2011-2019 these taps are all related to the AC stretchy belt. One thesis I read on a forum somewhere makes the most sense to me that the stretchy ac belt is pulling the crankshaft to the left facing the car and putting a load on the bearings causing a very slight piston slap or something, which would explain why oil changes and additives might help mask the noise for some people.

Here is the link to the TSB info: https://latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/tsb05-14/tsb12-08-14.pdf

Taking the tension off the crank solved the ratlle for me but I am sure there is still some looseness in the bearings or whatever as I get a muted very occasional tap click now.

My guess is Ford knows 100% the ac stretchy belt is the culprit as they issued the TSB back on the very first gen coyotes and have since 2013 added the threaded timing covers on all cars since but they wrote the noise off as not worth spending the extra millions it would cost to put a tensioner and idler with a longer belt on all mustangs.

I heard f150 5.0's come with these tensioners from the factory but have never seen one in person.
 

Karavel

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Because the bbq tick isn't what is being associated with the DI pump. I'm going to give the benefit of the doubt, because statements like yours irritate me, but that's the kind of misinformation that really confuses people (and perhaps you, spread from another). The 2k rpm rattle is being associated with the DI pump, which only the 18+ MY has. The bbq tick is what has been around since the gen 1 coyote. THAT sound is thought to be many things from out of spec crankshaft bearings to oil cavitation. Don't mix the two up, please.
Considering there is no 100% final conclusion pinpointing exactly what causes these noises I think it's not fair to say his comment is not misinformation.

My 2017 GT has had the 2k rattle since 5000 miles when I bought it. Every single day at work when I start it up and drive off I have a stretch of road with a metal barrier and bridge highway overpass and a few after that on on the right side of the car and I hear the consistent metallic rattling noise around +-2000 rpm, I really think it's there at all rpms but it's just more noticeable because at 2000 rpm the car is still sort of quiet as far as exhaust goes.

I have zero codes and it's not pinging it's the same exact 2000 rattle people are saying is from DI cars 18+ so it's not DI. I can even get it at idle when I rev it up to around 2000.

I recently installed TSB 12-8-14 myself which is for the air conditioner tensioner pulley and guess what, the 2k rpm rattle is no longer audible but now I hear a very soft slight inconsistent tap once in a while, just a single tap.

Now I have had a 13 GT also and it had a few instances where it made the typewriter tick and then went away.

All of these noises are exactly the same tap I can 100% confirm it is the same noise from the same source. I have serious OCD lol and have tried stethoscopes etc

I am 100% positive that across all years 2011-2019 these taps are all related to the AC stretchy belt. One thesis I read on a forum somewhere makes the most sense to me that the stretchy ac belt is pulling the crankshaft to the left facing the car and putting a load on the bearings causing a very slight piston slap or something, which would explain why oil changes and additives might help mask the noise for some people.

Here is the link to the TSB info: https://latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/tsb05-14/tsb12-08-14.pdf

Taking the tension off the crank solved the ratlle for me but I am sure there is still some looseness in the bearings or whatever as I get a muted very occasional tap click now.

My guess is Ford knows 100% the ac stretchy belt is the culprit as they issued the TSB back on the very first gen coyotes and have since 2013 added the threaded timing covers on all cars since but they wrote the noise off as not worth spending the extra millions it would cost to put a tensioner and idler with a longer belt on all mustangs.

I heard f150 5.0's come with these tensioners from the factory but have never seen one in person.
 

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Karavel: I have a 2019 GT and it's quite noisy at idle till it's fully warmed up. I used Ceratec and even 5W30 full syn oil and if anything, it may be a bit louder but the tic/tap at idle always goes away once the oil if fully warm. This isn't the same noise at 2200 RPM. Do you think this kit will work on my car? I haven't even looked at it (not home) and have no idea what AC drive system it has. How much was the kit?
 

Karavel

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Karavel: I have a 2019 GT and it's quite noisy at idle till it's fully warmed up. I used Ceratec and even 5W30 full syn oil and if anything, it may be a bit louder but the tic/tap at idle always goes away once the oil if fully warm. This isn't the same noise at 2200 RPM. Do you think this kit will work on my car? I haven't even looked at it (not home) and have no idea what AC drive system it has. How much was the kit?
It's worth a try, my rattle on my 17 would go away when warmed up too.
Every single Mustang with a coyote from 2011 to today does not come with the A/C tensioner system.
I just cut the stretch belt, moved the coolant tank and curved intake tube over took the engine cover off.
Took the main serpentine belt off the crank pulley. Wrap the new ac belt around the new tensioner pulley and install it facing 4-5 o' clock position so its pointing towards the crank pulley, slip the idler pulley over the extruded mounting point just above the tensioner and tighten both bolts for both pulleys 18ft lbs. Slip the ac belt on the pulleys pushing the new tensioner down to loosen the belt and put everything back together.
 

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Mazman

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Thank you both for the input.
I'll see what I can do.

I am not sure if I even want to open it if you get my point...

Cut it with a "flat" (not serrated) knife or metal cutting scissors. This will not produce metal shavings.
I put mine in a vice, and use a wide hardened sharp chisel to cut around the base slowly until it comes apart.
 

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Thank you both for the input.
I'll see what I can do.

I am not sure if I even want to open it if you get my point...
Best to open it and find out if there's an issue. To be honest, mine has a very noticeable typewriter tick. I thought my car was going to fall apart. After 15,000mi of ticking with some of the best synthetic oils and even Ceratec, my oil filters have little to nothing inside worth writing home about. No abnormal metal that I can see. 99% of cars with the tick and rattle literally have nothing notably wrong with them, even after some have torn the engines apart and measured all components they thought were an issue.
 

Codeblue009

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I am not sure how many this would apply to, but That1320chick had an in-depth analysis done on her car to determine why the car was ticking. Here are two videos I recommend you watch from her series that shows what they found. I hope this is informative.



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