For Those That Have Installed Their Own Springs/Suspension Components.

[shogun32]

but instead, says to turn the inner nut on the tie rod out .1875"

there's gotta be a handy reference mark on the inner tie so you can measure (while loaded?) from there to the centerline'ish of the old ball joint and then spin the new one on till you get to a similar...

Sponsored

 

[RAVAGE88]

there's gotta be a handy reference mark on the inner tie so you can measure (while loaded?) from there to the centerline'ish of the old ball joint and then spin the new one on till you get to a similar...

Yessir, there are a few good references and knowing what I know now, definitely in a better position to base future projects on a higher level of experience. Education always has a price tag....

MB

 

[galaxy]

Sooo, caveat my earlier comments...the rear springs may not be too stiff, but more so I probably question the stock mapping in the (350) magneride to dampen them. Even though the magneride is quite amazing (to me), I'm sure you're better off with those springs and your shock combo. That new DSC controller from Steeda is probalby the cat's meow, but quickly getting out of what I want to spend on suspension budget. Not that it's unaffordable, but more so it would be wasted on me.

The predicament I'm in with the 350 is that I only want to lower it a tad bit. Not looking to change or improve anything else. In fact, the car is sooo good with my needs and what I've already done, I don't really want to f&^% with it at all. May just live with the stock ride height or go with the popular Ford springs.

 

[RAVAGE88]

Sooo, caveat my earlier comments...the rear springs may not be too stiff, but more so I probably question the stock mapping in the (350) magneride to dampen them. Even though the magneride is quite amazing (to me), I'm sure you're better off with those springs and your shock combo. That new DSC controller from Steeda is probalby the cat's meow, but quickly getting out of what I want to spend on suspension budget. Not that it's unaffordable, but more so it would be wasted on me.

The predicament I'm in with the 350 is that I only want to lower it a tad bit. Not looking to change or improve anything else. In fact, the car is sooo good with my needs and what I've already done, I don't really want to f&^% with it at all. May just live with the stock ride height or go with the popular Ford springs.

Ah, gotcha, makes perfect sense. I was in the same place when I thought my car was Magneride. Magneride is pretty awesome, but I was actually happy to discover I don’t have a Magneride car. You’re correct to be hesitant/skeptical and maybe someone that has messed around with making changes and was successful in meeting their goals can weigh in on their actual experience.

MB

 

[shogun32]

the mach1 uses lower-rate springs than either version of GT350 so while it won't necessarily change static height, it may improve overall experience. I've found that no matter the trim, you have to lock down the IRS and brace it for MR to do it's thing the best.

If you take your springs to a specialist they should be able to grind the ends back so the spring is a little bit shorter. remember 1/4" at the spring is 2x that at the wheel.

 

[RAVAGE88]

If you take your springs to a specialist they should be able to grind the ends back so the spring is a little bit shorter. remember 1/4" at the spring is 2x that at the wheel.

This is a very interesting and technically viable approach. I design ground and closed springs frequently for firearms use, but never considered it for automotive applications. Would definitely give this a try.

MB

 

[RAVAGE88]

Handles like an absolute dream....a completely different car than the one I drove home in May.

MB

 

[galaxy]

How much camber is that in the rear there?

 

[RAVAGE88]

How much camber is that in the rear there?

-2 each side, which is from the drop. Still well within the green and will benefit my track use.

MB

 

[mustang_puppy]

Cool, thanks Dude. When I did the suspension components in the rear, I did the same thing; very straight forward. Did the support bushings, alignment dowels and differential bushings all at the same time. Wishing I would've had the springs at the same time, but the timing didn't work out.

MB

Same here on my Ecoboost. Was thinking I could have done it all in one fell swoop but nooo... I"ve done Steeda springs, swaybars and mounts, jacking rails, and 2 point front brace, BMR end links, rear shock tower brace, Ford Performance Track shocks and struts, Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates, Whiteline vertical links and differential bushing inserts. Feels pretty rigid in that when backing out of my driveway the passenger rear tire lifts off the ground a bit. I don't remember my car doing that in stock form.

Still have to do the rear springs, camber arms, knuckle and lower control arm bearings, toe links and subframe braces. I have the bumpsteer kit but am debating whether to install it or not. My intention is to make the car handle well for spirited driving on curvy roads, and maybe, one day, a few track laps.

 

[mustang_puppy]

Have the folks who have done the majority of these mods experienced any unforeseen or negative effects from the mods?

I get a lot of clunks from the back after installing BMR's shock mounts. I may need to tighten them further, or add the o-rings that came with the kit to lessen the noise. I think I remember someone in another thread saying it's because of the use of heim joints or something like that screwed on the shock mounting rod. When and if I install a rear seat delete they'll be even noisier because of the relative lack of sound insulation via the seat foam versus the thin delete panel.

I"ve gone through 2 rubber spring to strut insulators as they seem to rip from the mounting holes and cause a lot of creaking. Need to see if I got some defective parts, possibly the camber plates.

 

[galaxy]

I don’t know if I’m getting old, or scared to mess with such a well balanced package (or a combo of both), but I refuse to have the clunks and bumps and rattles and stuff that typically follow extreme suspension mods.

 

[RAVAGE88]

I don’t know if I’m getting old, or scared to mess with such a well balanced package (or a combo of both), but I refuse to have the clunks and bumps and rattles and stuff that typically follow extreme suspension mods.

I understand why you‘d feel that way as I’ve read lots of comments about various troubles, noises, etc., but I did 100% of the work to mine using 100% Steeda parts and did the alignment myself. My car is seriously quiet, rides far superior to stock, handles like a dream and looks incredible. I didn’t order parts without first validating my plans with @Steeda Tech JohnC, @tj@steeda and/or calling to speak with Rod or other folks at Steeda.

I will say that Steeda instructions could use an overhaul as many of them are not clear or don’t represent the best way to go about installing various parts. I’m an Engineer and design mechanical assemblies for a living and have built engines since I was literally eight years old, so this stuff isn’t new to me. For the do-it-yourselfers and the “pros” that install the upgrade parts, I believe many of the issues I read about are due to the way the instructions from many of the parts suppliers (Steeda, BMR, etc.) are written.

MB

 

[RAVAGE88]

I understand why you‘d feel that way as I’ve read lots of comments about various troubles, noises, etc., but I did 100% of the work to mine using 100% Steeda parts and did the alignment myself. My car is seriously quiet, rides far superior to stock, handles like a dream and looks incredible. I didn’t order parts without first validating my plans with @Steeda Tech JohnC, @tj@steeda and/or calling to speak with Rod or other folks at Steeda.

I will say that Steeda instructions could use an overhaul as many of them are not clear or don’t represent the best way to go about installing various parts. I’m an Engineer and design mechanical assemblies for a living and have built engines since I was literally eight years old, so this stuff isn’t new to me. For the do-it-yourselfers and the “pros” that install the upgrade parts, I believe many of the issues I read about are due to the way the instructions from many of the parts suppliers (Steeda, BMR, etc.) are written.

MB

Circling back to this thread after close to a year after getting the suspension and chassis right where I've wanted it. Not only does the car sit exactly like I want, it still handles like a dream. No clicks, clunks, thumps, rattles, squeaks or anything undesirable; just pure handling bliss.

After a bit of idle time for the tools while getting the airplane online and lots of flight time, I'm now able to focus on the car again. However, there's a really disappointed CTSV driver, along with lots of WRX, BMW, Audi, a Hellcat or two and a 'Vette that knows my license plate pretty well. And it's about to get faster.

MB

 

[mustang_puppy]

Installed the rear springs a few months ago along with Steeda subframe braces and the car is pretty stiff. To get it any stiffer I'd have to put in a roll cage. But on the other hand, what does bug me now is that I have stock tires with a 50 sidewall and that makes the handling wobbly, especially in back. Darn... I'll have to buy some new tires and wheels to get rid of that. GT350R wheels are what I'd like, ideally, so I'll have to save a lot of money to buy a set. Webcam girls are going to miss me... well, my money anyway.

Sponsored