False knock???

racingmason

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I’m going to try and locate that. Can you see it with the IM installed? I don’t think the IM was removed when the shop installed the Procharger.
It's under the intake manifold, you won't be able to see them without removing it.

 

Ruiner46

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Before you go tearing into the intake manifold, you should probably try some things. A lot of your numbers in the pictures you posted make no sense at all. I'm not familiar with any SCT stuff, but can you turn off some of the things you are logging? I'm wondering if you are logging so many parameters that some of them are not updating fast enough and you are getting bad data basically. You should try getting a log where you only log something like 10 parameters as a test. Log knock, load, maf, timing advance, throttle, fuel trims, afr, and rpm. Drive around and see if you still have high knock numbers.

The units listed there for the knock sensor parameter are in degrees, as in degrees of timing that get retarded. Look in your logs at what the timing advance is doing when you see the high knock numbers. Is the timing jumping drastically at those points? If not, then the number you see for knock is not real. I've looked at a few tunes and I've never seen knock retard allowed to go past 10 degrees, so I would question anything above 10. Where it says 40 and 1000 and stuff like that just isn't possible in the tune.
 

racingmason

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I can send him a simple datalog config or walk the OP through how to make his own. I agree something is not right as nothing makes sense.
 

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I think he was using the config file that Lund sent him.
 
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I can send him a simple datalog config or walk the OP through how to make his own. I agree something is not right as nothing makes sense.
I appreciate you’re offering to teach me so at least I can learn to start tracking things down.
 
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Before you go tearing into the intake manifold, you should probably try some things. A lot of your numbers in the pictures you posted make no sense at all. I'm not familiar with any SCT stuff, but can you turn off some of the things you are logging? I'm wondering if you are logging so many parameters that some of them are not updating fast enough and you are getting bad data basically. You should try getting a log where you only log something like 10 parameters as a test. Log knock, load, maf, timing advance, throttle, fuel trims, afr, and rpm. Drive around and see if you still have high knock numbers.

The units listed there for the knock sensor parameter are in degrees, as in degrees of timing that get retarded. Look in your logs at what the timing advance is doing when you see the high knock numbers. Is the timing jumping drastically at those points? If not, then the number you see for knock is not real. I've looked at a few tunes and I've never seen knock retard allowed to go past 10 degrees, so I would question anything above 10. Where it says 40 and 1000 and stuff like that just isn't possible in the tune.
Yes I was told by a couple members that the knock sensor can’t go beyond 10 as well. I’ll take a look at that timing the next time I take the car out.

I did asked Lund if they see pressure drops, leaks and knock and they came back with “everything looks good”
 
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Even a plastic cap can cause a knock? The original procharger installer decided to leave it there in the valley of the IM.
 

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I also had a case of knock which I did not care for because everyone said its 'false' knock.
Turns out I lost a couple rings and my motor was toast.

Before you wave it off and assume its false, do a compression test and do some basic tests that'll actually validate your car is not legitimately knocking.
The most common knocking issue was the header rubbing and your car has stock headers.
If it hasn't been knocking this whole time but now all of a sudden its setting the knock sensors off it could be actual detonation.

I did the same thing, I put octane booster in, checked the plugs, it used to come and go.
I was seeing +9 Knock part throttle (how it started) and car would still be happy under WOT but it eventually caused bigger problems.

End of the day, these engines are solid but they can only take so much until they start giving out. I drove the hell out of my car for 25,000 miles before it started to give me issues.

Just my 0.02
 
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I also had a case of knock which I did not care for because everyone said its 'false' knock.
Turns out I lost a couple rings and my motor was toast.

Before you wave it off and assume its false, do a compression test and do some basic tests that'll actually validate your car is not legitimately knocking.
The most common knocking issue was the header rubbing and your car has stock headers.
If it hasn't been knocking this whole time but now all of a sudden its setting the knock sensors off it could be actual detonation.

I did the same thing, I put octane booster in, checked the plugs, it used to come and go.
I was seeing +9 Knock part throttle (how it started) and car would still be happy under WOT but it eventually caused bigger problems.

End of the day, these engines are solid but they can only take so much until they start giving out. I drove the hell out of my car for 25,000 miles before it started to give me issues.

Just my 0.02
Thanks man. I’ll send you a message too.
 
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Sooooo what was the issue.
It’s been awhile, but Lund tuner said I was looking at the wrong one and I can’t recall anymore. Car still runs amazing to this day and hopefully it stays this way.
 

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It’s been awhile, but Lund tuner said I was looking at the wrong one and I can’t recall anymore. Car still runs amazing to this day and hopefully it stays this way.
Good! I was worried for you for a bit, glad things worked out.
 
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Thanks man
What tuning device were you using? I had some false knock issues with an sct and while datalogging constantly to figure it out I had my knock hit in the 2000s. Lund told me those readings were a glitch because my sensors max out at 10. I ended up finding a knick in my cable. Glad it worked out for you.
 

 
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