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Extended Studs vs Hub Assembly?

Traffic22

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Have 2 upcoming track days and plan on just running on my HP wheels and burning up the Cup2’s. However looking towards the future, seems like it might be more economical to invest in some better (for track) wheels, and run a 305 or 315 square set up.

Based on the info here, seems like everyone either upgrade to the FRPP or OP Mustang hubs with the extended studs, or they just go ARP extended studs.

I’m open to opinions on both approaches. My Mach only has 1700 miles on it, so even if I beat the hubs, I can’t see them needing replacement for a couple years.

Are the upgraded hubs that much better?

Thanks in advance for the advice and opinions
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Coastal-Mach

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I’m on a GT and upgraded studs. For the front it makes sense to just get studs. The rear for a PP car requires the assembly to be removed. So you might as well just upgrade and keep the stickers as spares.
 

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I just got the hubs because the install was easy and the price was reasonable. I didn't have to press anything and I think the whole job was a 2 hour deal.

 

Dana Pants

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All wheel bearing types appear to be equally fragile. Strangely, the biggest failure mode appears to be simply “came loose”, so apply red threadlock when servicing.

Do whatever is cheaper and easier for you. Somehow I purchased front hubs and rear studs. I don’t know what my logic was on those two different days, but I do recommend ARP rear studs even if you don’t need the length. I broke several OEM studs.
 

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Optimum Performance

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Have 2 upcoming track days and plan on just running on my HP wheels and burning up the Cup2’s. However looking towards the future, seems like it might be more economical to invest in some better (for track) wheels, and run a 305 or 315 square set up.

Based on the info here, seems like everyone either upgrade to the FRPP or OP Mustang hubs with the extended studs, or they just go ARP extended studs.

I’m open to opinions on both approaches. My Mach only has 1700 miles on it, so even if I beat the hubs, I can’t see them needing replacement for a couple years.

Are the upgraded hubs that much better?

Thanks in advance for the advice and opinions
Your Front Hubs are unique to 2021+ (All Mach 1's) and FRPP does not offer any products for this application (or Mag Ride vehicles at all, except rear non-GT500 applications)

We build hubs with our studs for all models including 2024+.

I have included our blog post which has been borrowed by others and claimed as their own discoveries.

https://www.opmustang.com/blog/2015-2023-s550-2024-s650-hub-identifucation#/

The front hubs are listed below that fit the Mach 1's. They will work with any wheel or any of our wheel spacers except the 12mm spacer. This hub protrudes further from the factory. The hubs we build can be machined down to accept all spacers but Customers have found the 15mm spacers work best for moving the HP wheels out the correct amount.

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p41..._Hub_Assemblies_With_Racing_Wheel_Stud.html#/

Depending on track wheel choice, APEX are always the best value and proven so depending on which wheel specs are used we can determine what spacer will place the wheel for the best advantage with a track alignment. We have been doing this with the GT500 to move the front wheels back out to the fender when the cars are aligned for track use.
 
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Traffic22

Traffic22

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Your Front Hubs are unique to 2021+ (All Mach 1's) and FRPP does not offer any products for this application (or Mag Ride vehicles at all, except rear non-GT500 applications)

We build hubs with our studs for all models including 2024+.

I have included our blog post which has been borrowed by others and claimed as their own discoveries.

https://www.opmustang.com/blog/2015-2023-s550-2024-s650-hub-identifucation#/

The front hubs are listed below that fit the Mach 1's. They will work with any wheel or any of our wheel spacers except the 12mm spacer. This hub protrudes further from the factory. The hubs we build can be machined down to accept all spacers but Customers have found the 15mm spacers work best for moving the HP wheels out the correct amount.

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p41..._Hub_Assemblies_With_Racing_Wheel_Stud.html#/

Depending on track wheel choice, APEX are always the best value and proven so depending on which wheel specs are used we can determine what spacer will place the wheel for the best advantage with a track alignment. We have been doing this with the GT500 to move the front wheels back out to the fender when the cars are aligned for track use.
Thank you for this info. I was aware there was some weirdness with the late build Mach 1 hubs, and bolts. @mattlqx had an excellent post detailing some of the differences and posting Ford part numbers to help with the change. (He did give you guys credit for helping sort it all out.) Excellent blog post describing the differences between hubs.

Please correct me if I’m wrong, but if I read your blog post correct, the Mach 1 HP cars already have a much more robust and improved hub and bearing assemblies? In fact, in reading what you have discovered, it seems like there would be no advantage to changing the hubs, beyond the longer studs?

If that’s the case, that makes this a very easy decision.
 

1 old racer

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My mustang is 5 years old now and I run a avg of 4 to 6 track days weekends per year, (except this one which I only ran one due to the closing of Cal Speedway), I am still running the oem hubs with ARP studs. I changed out the oem studs after just a month or so of ownership. I simply banged out the oem studs and install the ARP extended studs with a stud installer spacer. The rear's are a little more difficult but once you get into it arnt as bad as they seam. If memory servers me correct, the whole job from wheels up to wheels down only took me about 5 hours total. I actually knock the studs loose with the brake assembly in place with a couple med, hits with my 20 oz hammer. Then remove everything to get to the hub. The install is just as easy installing into the hub.
 

Optimum Performance

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Thank you for this info. I was aware there was some weirdness with the late build Mach 1 hubs, and bolts. @mattlqx had an excellent post detailing some of the differences and posting Ford part numbers to help with the change. (He did give you guys credit for helping sort it all out.) Excellent blog post describing the differences between hubs.

Please correct me if I’m wrong, but if I read your blog post correct, the Mach 1 HP cars already have a much more robust and improved hub and bearing assemblies? In fact, in reading what you have discovered, it seems like there would be no advantage to changing the hubs, beyond the longer studs?

If that’s the case, that makes this a very easy decision.
Yes, no one offers an improved hub over OEM for S550's. You can just swap studs over. Most people go the hub route due to ease and refreshing consumables. Plus it gives them spares.
 
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Traffic22

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luc

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All wheel bearing types appear to be equally fragile. Strangely, the biggest failure mode appears to be simply “came loose”, so apply red threadlock when servicing.

Do whatever is cheaper and easier for you. Somehow I purchased front hubs and rear studs. I don’t know what my logic was on those two different days, but I do recommend ARP rear studs even if you don’t need the length. I broke several OEM studs.
After my rear driver side getting loose, I used a jam nut after installing the ford racing hubs
Haven’t had a problem since then
 
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Traffic22

Traffic22

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Depends what you are trying to accomplish. We have 3 different studs. If you plan on never running more than a 15mm spacer the Mid-Lengths work, if you are trying to fit a 11+" wheel up front the RSPEC or GT4 studs are what you need to run a 35mm spacer.
Got it….Thank you. Guess it’ll be a game time decision once I figure out which wheel. Appreciate the help. 👍
 

Optimum Performance

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Could be wrong but never heard of anyone using a thicker than 25mm spacer
We use a lot of spacers above 25mm. Rear fitment wheels require it when used on the front, most 11.5" wheels as well.
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