ESS Centrifugal Mustang Superchargers

[TEXAS HEAT]

Finally got around to installing the GT350 intake manifold along with VMP fuel rails and FIC-1000's. The car started up, idled and drove perfectly fine on the base file. I'll data-log tomorrow and hopefully will have it dialed in on 93, then next week I'll get Sunoco 260GT in it and get it on some race gas. I'm hoping that the fuel rails will mitigate the fuel pressure drop at higher rpm, I can't wait to get it logged and do some 60-130mph testing.

Return-style fuel system will be next to install...

I'll have some Lu47's and a Brett Barber ported 2018 intake manifold posted for sale in the 6G classifieds tomorrow.

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[lkeltner]

update:

ran 2 tanks of 91 octane (apparently the best 91 in town) to clear out the octane booster and then did another 3rd gear highway pull and logged it. Lund said it's good to go, no knock. woot!

also got the correct UPR kit today, great customer service from them getting me helped out to the correct kit.

Went to install it and realized that the adapter they give that is supposed to go into the air filter tube is made for a hard plastic air filter tube, not the silicone tube that ESS provides. It's a ford push click adapter that is threaded on the other side for inserting into a hard plastic air filter tube. Obviously this won't work here as it's too small for the ESS tube opening.

I went to the hardware store and picked up a right angle heater hose elbow, which fit the bill perfectly. (this is good because the 2nd opening on the ESS air filter tube points almost straight up, so right angle was needed as the hood clearance right there was non-existent.)

Got everything installed and it's good to go.

One thing I noticed though: When I was done installing, I went to check everything before closing the hood and found a puddle on top of the battery cover. It was oil. Looking at the underhood liner, it appears that something was blowing out oil around the oil fill cap and it was soaking through the liner. Enough oil built up that with the hood open it drains off the back and onto the battery cover.

This would track as I still had my passenger side hose connected to the manifold, so it was boosting that side when I was getting on it. Getting the UPR kit installed should fix this nicely.

I think I'll still have to take the underhood liner out and clean it or something. Make sure you guys check that!

 

[BoostN IT]

Dang, you all still posting on this thread? Lol 206 pages now

 

[Veteran]

Op, perhaps u should mention you were being asked to give a good review.
This on its own reflects the need for a cover up ?

 

[Proshop]

What’s everyone seeing on their maf lbs/min readings when logging at full boost? Just wanted to compare… I’m seeing 87 lbs/min with a G3x with 100mm pulley in 95 degree weather. Will be logging again the next cold front we get.

 

[lkeltner]

I'm having a few part throttle bucking issues, especially at low rpm or very light throttle application.

I'm trying to get it logged correctly to send to Lund but I also had another thought:

When I installed the MAF tube, I installed it with the sensor hole poking straight up. Stock mustang air tube position for the maf is on the side at 90 deg. Should I rotate my maf tube to match? Or does this not matter?

Also paging @Brevin@ESS

 

[Proshop]

I'm having a few part throttle bucking issues, especially at low rpm or very light throttle application.

I'm trying to get it logged correctly to send to Lund but I also had another thought:

When I installed the MAF tube, I installed it with the sensor hole poking straight up. Stock mustang air tube position for the maf is on the side at 90 deg. Should I rotate my maf tube to match? Or does this not matter?

I believe it only matters which end of the maf tube is facing incoming and outgoing . I don’t think the orientation matters.

 

[Exploded_Muffin]

What’s everyone seeing on their maf lbs/min readings when logging at full boost? Just wanted to compare… I’m seeing 87 lbs/min with a G3x with 100mm pulley in 95 degree weather. Will be logging again the next cold front we get.

The MAF on our cars max out at 86.69 lbs/min if I remember correctly so you won't see any number higher than that (In reality it's obviously flowing more air than that) .
On your G3x and 100mm pulley you're probably hitting that number before you get to 7,000 rpm and it should stay maxed out all the way to redline unless you have some belt slip.

 

[Proshop]

The MAF on our cars max out at 86.69 lbs/min if I remember correctly so you won't see any number higher than that (In reality it's obviously flowing more air than that) .
On your G3x and 100mm pulley you're probably hitting that number before you get to 7,000 rpm and it should stay maxed out all the way to redline unless you have some belt slip.

Thank you for the information I had no idea about that.

 

[Exploded_Muffin]

I'm having a few part throttle bucking issues, especially at low rpm or very light throttle application.

I'm trying to get it logged correctly to send to Lund but I also had another thought:

When I installed the MAF tube, I installed it with the sensor hole poking straight up. Stock mustang air tube position for the maf is on the side at 90 deg. Should I rotate my maf tube to match? Or does this not matter?

Also paging @Brevin@ESS

The vertical cross-sectional orientation shouldn't matter, as long as your MAF housing is oriented properly from the intercooler pipe to the throttle body pipe you should be fine.
My MAF (and I expect almost everyone else's) is in the exact same position as yours.

 

[lkeltner]

AJ from ESS also replied that vertical orientation of the MAF like I have it is no issue.

I'm trying to work with Lund on the low speed drivability. Strangely, sending them logs of when I can make it buck pretty hard, apparently nothing shows up in the log. Hopefully we can get this sorted out as right now the car isn't much fun to drive around slow areas (which is where I am most of the time)

 

[Superspirit]

I keep reading it doesn't run right and lund in the same posts over and over and over.

 

[lkeltner]

I keep reading it doesn't run right and lund in the same posts over and over and over.

I hope to get it solved. So far my calibrator hasn't offered any different tunes to try since I started reporting this. He did say he's tuned about a dozen other centri cars this week, all using the same base file as I have and I'm the only one reporting this.

AJ from ESS wanted to look at my base file, I was able to figure how to reflash stock with TDN (long hold is the key, then full write, should take 5min, not 2min.) and sent that info over to him to look at too.

This drivability thing is really the only thing not finished. Once I get this sorted out, it's done.

 

[lkeltner]

Non-tune related thing: I noticed that after the blower install, since you have to cap the sound tube, I have a LOT more drone in the car. I still have fully stock exhaust and plan on keeping it that way.

Do I need to fully remove the sound tube instead of capping it and seal the firewall hole? is there something else I need to do to get this drone gone? (especially on the highway at 70-80mph. it's just loud)

Back in my fox body days, I went full long tubes to combat the drone. Don't really want to do that here....

 

[Cordero1]

Non-tune related thing: I noticed that after the blower install, since you have to cap the sound tube, I have a LOT more drone in the car. I still have fully stock exhaust and plan on keeping it that way.

Do I need to fully remove the sound tube instead of capping it and seal the firewall hole? is there something else I need to do to get this drone gone? (especially on the highway at 70-80mph. it's just loud)

Back in my fox body days, I went full long tubes to combat the drone. Don't really want to do that here....

I didn't know you could get drone from the stock exhaust.

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