ESS Centrifugal Mustang Superchargers

[Kirill]

Why do you have the other codes? Brake booster sensor code? Are your vacuum lines all good?

It would more likely be a high psi boost leak, you may need to smoke test with 15psi of pressure to make sure the charge system is holding 15 psi

Thanx - we did smoke test, all good
The rest mistakes are below - can you please advise what to do with them? What do they mean? I don’t have a lot of time as drag will be in 2 weeks, please help me to find solutions

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[Kirill]

Also, i HIGHLY recommend you get your (2015 to 2017 only) boost reference from here:

So my low boost can be because of this?

 

[Wolfys11]

Thanx - we did smoke test, all good
The rest mistakes are below - can you please advise what to do with them? What do they mean? I don’t have a lot of time as drag will be in 2 weeks, please help me to find solutions

Im not sure what the trans codes are, some of the 10r80 guys would know better, but that brake booster code seems to do with either a wiring issue with that sensor, or a bad vacuum reading meaning bad vacuum. Thats why i kind of link your boost issue to maybe be related to a bad vacuum issue, as a vacuum line controls your bov, and your bov keeps the boost in. Maybe if there is a vacuum issue your bov is opening at 10psi.

 

[jono12345]

Also, i HIGHLY recommend you get your (2015 to 2017 only) boost reference from here:

Thank you. I'm having a hard time seeing where it is tied into though. Is it coming from this fitting to the valve cover?

 

[SnowFox]

Anybody know the outer diameter of the Intercooler inlet/outlets.

Is it 3.5? Id look but I'm away from my car and needs it

 

[jmagnus87]

So my low boost can be because of this?

Not if you were already getting 15psi before. This port just has a much tighter or faster reference to the BOV and actuates on and off much faster. Change it around and you'll see. You can feel the difference... well, if your transmission is working properly sorry buddy, i had to

 

[jmagnus87]

Thank you. I'm having a hard time seeing where it is tied into though. Is it coming from this fitting to the valve cover?

I believe so but you need a catch can or the valve cover breathers to free up that port from the pcv. If that one is right behind the throttle body i think that's the right one. I'll find a better picture of mine, again my car is in the body shop, can't take a fresh picture. It's the red hose, but this is the GT350 intake

 

[Kirill]

Not if you were already getting 15psi before. This port just has a much tighter or faster reference to the BOV and actuates on and off much faster. Change it around and you'll see. You can feel the difference... well, if your transmission is working properly sorry buddy, i had to

Well, thank You, my friend)
Then low boost can be only because of trans?)

I don’t know where to find the problem(((

 

[jmagnus87]

Well, thank You, my friend)
Then low boost can be only because of trans?)

I don’t know where to find the problem(((

Low boost shouldn't have anything to do with the transmission really, but if the engine is disengaging after sensing slippage it will put itself in limp home mode with all those codes.
This would limit any and all engine power and airflow. It's not like an old school carbureted car that would keep stuffing air through the engine even if it can't run with that much air.
this is like trying to stick your head out of the car window and trying to breathe, you're basically doing that right now with all the codes. Fix whatever is causing the codes, (i think we saw transmission valve body earlier?) then see if you have full boost. No matter what you drive, if you start pushing these limits and kinds of horsepower, you're definitely going to break stuff

 

[Jpump]

Got my car back from Brevin on Friday. Didn't find any vacuum leaks, so I did nothing wrong with the install, but it seems that my VCT solenoids decided it was a good time to stop working correctly after the ESS install. He replaced all 4, put on a new valve cover on the passenger side(the tab inside where the extension tube locks into was broken by me. I accidently ordered a vented breather with the wrong threads.)

It seems to be running better so far. Hasn't dropped under 700RPM while idling, but it'll still fluctuate by 50RPM occasionally. Might need to replace my phasers at some point this summer.

I also figured out why my boost/vacuum gauge was off. The gauge needs 12v WHILE cranking for the auto zero feature on the gauge to work. Not many 12v accessory wires are active during cranking apparently, so the feature isn't working correctly and the gauge isn't being calibrated on start up and is off. I'll have to replace it with a mechanical gauge at some point. I turned on the boost gauge with Forscan for now so I have something.

My AFR fluctuates at idle too. It'll start out at 14, then drop to 13, then climb up to maybe 15ish, then bounce around between that. I'm not sure if that's normal. I never paid any attention to it before the ESS was installed, so I have no idea how stable it was before.

 

[Wolfys11]

Got my car back from Brevin on Friday. Didn't find any vacuum leaks, so I did nothing wrong with the install, but it seems that my VCT solenoids decided it was a good time to stop working correctly after the ESS install. He replaced all 4, put on a new valve cover on the passenger side(the tab inside where the extension tube locks into was broken by me. I accidently ordered a vented breather with the wrong threads.)

It seems to be running better so far. Hasn't dropped under 700RPM while idling, but it'll still fluctuate by 50RPM occasionally. Might need to replace my phasers at some point this summer.

I also figured out why my boost/vacuum gauge was off. The gauge needs 12v WHILE cranking for the auto zero feature on the gauge to work. Not many 12v accessory wires are active during cranking apparently, so the feature isn't working correctly and the gauge isn't being calibrated on start up and is off. I'll have to replace it with a mechanical gauge at some point. I turned on the boost gauge with Forscan for now so I have something.

My AFR fluctuates at idle too. It'll start out at 14, then drop to 13, then climb up to maybe 15ish, then bounce around between that. I'm not sure if that's normal. I never paid any attention to it before the ESS was installed, so I have no idea how stable it was before.

I would say this is normalish, how old are the o2 sensors? Maybe its time to give them a swap?

 

[Jpump]

I would say this is normalish, how old are the o2 sensors? Maybe its time to give them a swap?

Probably original. I've owned the car for a little over 2 years.

 

[jono12345]

Just curious. What are people running for engine oil? My car is street driven and usually a weekend/Friday car. I'm thinking 5w30 or 5w40 euro.

 

[daSNAK3]

Just curious. What are people running for engine oil? My car is street driven and usually a weekend/Friday car. I'm thinking 5w30 or 5w40 euro.

Pennzoil Platinum 5w40 Euro.

 

[LOL WUT]

Pennzoil Platinum 5w40 Euro.

^ this.

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