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Mikepol2

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Things are progressing slowly but surely…ESS kit due to arrive tomorrow. Front bumper cover assembly and belly pan removed. Wengerd tune loaded. But installing the GT500 injectors threw me for a bit of a loop. I was expecting to have to unclip the fuel line on the drivers side going into the fuel rail, which I did; but it turns out there was also a different one on the passenger side, wonder what that is for? Hard to see in the picture, but the assembly also had a double set of lines joining the two sides. @Brevin , thoughts?

IMG_7436.jpeg
 
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LOL WUT

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Things are progressing slowly but surely…ESS kit due to arrive tomorrow. Front bumper cover assembly and belly pan removed. Wengerd tune loaded. But installing the GT500 injectors through me for a bit of a loop. I was expecting to have to unclip the fuel line on the drivers side going into the fuel rail, which I did; but it turns out there was also a different one on the passenger side, wonder what that is for? Hard to see in the picture, but the assembly also had a double set of lines joining the two sides. @Brevin , thoughts?

IMG_7436.jpeg
The passenger side fuel rail hook up is from the direct injection pump 👍.
 

Justgonna send it

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Dose anyone know a guesstimate of the psi spring rate inside summit bov.
 

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Pistol_91

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Was able to get a video of the problem. Sometimes my car will have a hard time starting when it's hot. Cold starts are fine, but sometimes on hot starts it will idle at like 400-500 RPM, then a few seconds later it'll idle up to 750. But this is what it's doing. Also, my AFR fluctuates between 13.5 to 14, and occasionally will hit 15 or 16 at idle.

Mine does the same thing dude. I've been trying to figure out what is causing this. I raised my hot start rpm to 1250 but it doesn't help it much.
 

Mikepol2

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@Jpump this is coming from someone who just laid eyes on an ESS kit for the first time today so it might be impossible to be causing your problem but I noticed something checking out the contents... the metal tube where the MAF gets installed was slightly ovaled, like it got bent or crushed a little. 3.580" across the open end measuring in one direction, say 12:00 to 6:00, and then 3.650" across the 3:00 to 9:00 direction. Brevin says no big deal since silicone hoses mate with those ends but wonder if there could be a tiny vacuum leak if yours happens to be bent more than mine.
 

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Jpump

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@Jpump this is coming from someone who just laid eyes on an ESS kit for the first time today so it might be impossible to be causing your problem but I noticed something checking out the contents... the metal tube where the MAF gets installed was slightly ovaled, like it got bent or crushed a little. 3.580" across the open end measuring in one direction, say 12:00 to 6:00, and then 3.650" across the 3:00 to 9:00 direction. Brevin says no big deal since silicone hoses mate with those ends but wonder if there could be a tiny vacuum leak if yours happens to be bent more than mine.
I'm dropping my car off at Brevin's shop tomorrow after work. Hopefully he can find my problem.
 

DougS550

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I opted to install a Complete, High Volume, MMR Hurricane Oil Pump Assembly in lieu of putting new billet gears in into a used/seated OEM oil pump housing. I have not had any issues with my MMR as of today 1400 miles. (not much but most at WOT) 900ish whp
 

Mikepol2

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Well 8 solid install hours today and still a ways to go. Much harder than I thought. Had the injectors and BAP done already and the front clip off.

Started the day taking off the crash bar. The four inner bolts have some kind of lock nut on the inside and they were tight AF, and one broke :curse:. Went to the dealer and they found the bolt, sold in packs of four but special order. They couldn't find the lock nut, didn't show up on any of their diagrams. Gave up and tabled that problem for later.

Next was wrestling with the coolant hose, trimming the end, and trying to reattach without kinking it per the instructions. Done in an hour and hated the result. Turned the page and saw "but if you have a Mach 1, use the extra coolant hose provided." :explode: 10 minutes later that was done. If I had to do it over, I'd remove the lower end of the hose first to minimize the coolant lake on the garage floor and all over the engine bay.

Installed the mounting brackets, blower, and belt. Not too bad.

The instructions say before installing the intercooler, remove the ducts on either side of the radiator, but doesn't say how. Turns out they are each one big plastic part that holds the lower splash valence. Couldn't get them out because there are two black tubular supports running from the crash bar to the radiator. There's an upper plastic valence held in with 6 push pins that I removed and was then able to remove the two bolts under it that held each of the supports. After that it was easy to remove the side ducts and lower valence. Put the supports and upper valence back in.

The blowoff valve comes with 4 washers. The instructions don't tell you what they are all for. Used two of them on the banjo fitting. It also doesn't tell you which way to point the banjo fitting, I guessed and pointed it down, we'll find out eventually if that was a good guess.

Got the IC up onto the car and started looking at running the charge pipes in. Turns out the two black tubular supports are directly blocking the pipes. :headbang: Texted Devin and thankfully he answered and said they have to be removed. Hope they're not structurally important.

Got the drivers side charge pipe ran to the blower. But there is no room at all for the passenger side. Lots of AC lines and wiring harnesses. Texted Devin again and he said remove another plastic part from the side of the radiator and bend the AC line slightly out of the way. At that point I gave up for the day, will give it another go tomorrow but I'm probably 15 total hours in and starting to regret buying it. That passenger side charge pipe is really scaring me.
 

SheepDog

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That passenger side charge pipe is really scaring me.
It fits my friend.
Don't be skurd to bend the AC line a little like Brevin told you.
You may need to flip it around if you are finding that it doesn't want to line up or clear the radiator and support. Also, I had to un-clip the cooling fan harness connector from the shroud to provide enough clearance.
 

SheepDog

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