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TEXAS HEAT

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From your experience, what would be the best setup for the average street car that goes to the drag strip for the weekend for 93 and a bap. Like what pulley, what injectors, g2 or g3. Thanks
If you're a gen3 then you will need a BAP and Lu47's to play, but on 93 you will likely be knock limited to a 120mm pulley depending on quality of pump gas. You can run 93 and Boostane with a 115mm pulley and still see 18* of timing.
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BoostN IT

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If you're a gen3 then you will need a BAP and Lu47's to play, but on 93 you will likely be knock limited to a 120mm pulley depending on quality of pump gas. You can run 93 and Boostane with a 115mm pulley and still see 18* of timing.
I have a gen2 GT with 6r80. Might just have to get the 120mm then. Might decide to upgrade fuel system, boostane or meth kit later on.
 

TEXAS HEAT

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I have a gen2 GT with 6r80. Might just have to get the 120mm then. Might decide to upgrade fuel system, boostane or meth kit later on.
You're going to need a minimum of Lu47's to run this kit. I might be springing for a return style fuel system soon, so I'll have some Lu47's for sale very soon.
 

GreenS550

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they make belts in all kinds of lengths. Have you tried McMaster or a belt-supply house? The belts are nothing special. Shame on the vendor not matching belts to pully size.
This is exactly the issue I ran into with my Whipple/Bullitt install. I simply could not get the belt on. I contacted Whipple at the time and they insisted it was correct. They were wrong. It is possible the test car had a slightly different pulley than your car.

Anyway, I went to the auto parts store and simply bought a slightly larger belt and the problem was solved. You should not have to have 2 people help you put a belt on. Like my Whipple, when I got their belt on finally with the help of two people, it was so tight the idler was maxed out. Not good.

Just take the belt number to a good auto parts and have them give you one slightly larger. Too much pressure will significantly shorten the life of the bearings, etc.
 

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This is exactly the issue I ran into with my Whipple/Bullitt install. I simply could not get the belt on. I contacted Whipple at the time and they insisted it was correct. They were wrong. It is possible the test car had a slightly different pulley than your car.

Anyway, I went to the auto parts store and simply bought a slightly larger belt and the problem was solved. You should not have to have 2 people help you put a belt on. Like my Whipple, when I got their belt on finally with the help of two people, it was so tight the idler was maxed out. Not good.

Just take the belt number to a good auto parts and have them give you one slightly larger. Too much pressure will significantly shorten the life of the bearings, etc.
i Wonder if broken crank snouts aren’t perhaps a result of too tight belts.
 

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DougS550

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i Wonder if broken crank snouts aren’t perhaps a result of too tight belts.
Absolutely IMHO. Their should be no less than 1/2" movement front and back. Any less your puting excess stress on the crank snout, bearings etc.
 

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Absolutely IMHO. Their should be no less than 1/2" movement front and back. Any less your puting excess stress on the crank snout, bearings etc.
Yes.
We got it on, but those of us that have done blowers and other stuff relating to serpentine belts knew it was too tight. No movement at all available from the tensioner - it was all the way in.

Worse case scenario, the belt starts to slip. Much better than ruining the bearings in the water pump or, as you guys state, breaking the crank snout.

BTW in 2K plus miles and drag racing, the longer belt never slipped. I argued with Whipple and finally decided to go longer. I actually needed one a few inches longer.
 

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Has anyone experienced codes P2BEC which is (fuel control system A too lean bank 1) or P2BEE which is (fuel system A too lean bank 2) if so what was the root issue?

This occurs at even part throttle very slow driving and triggers a CEL. I've cleared it once and it came back very shortly thereafter.

VMP BAP and Lu47's on the ESS Supercharger.

Any help or advice is appreciated.
Any luck on the issue yet? I checked those codes and it could be a whole host of issues. Not often you see a "real" issue trigger on both banks at the same time so seems install or tune related.
I assume this issue wasn't there while you were doing your logs with Lund, right?

I could be wrong but I think iat can also cause timing pull that won't show up as knock. I know you have meth which should be keeping the temps cool. When we did my 11 psi tune I actually don't know what the iats were but my tuner did say the blower was putting out heat.
The meth kit dropped my IAT to about 70F which was below ambient in the dyno room so unlikely a heat issue.
I'm waiting for PBD to get back to me regarding the logs but I did a few more street driving logs and I noticed that timing never stays at the max 18* on WOT even with no positive KR. Varies between 15-18 and usually in the 16 area but I've seen it drop to 14 before.
Looked at my old logs with PBD on the 9.5psi (110mm pulley) and it's the same.....even with no positive KR it doesn't hold max timing.
I know wheel slip pulls timing and that's easy to identify from the logs as it pulls all or almost all of it.
Hopefully someone knowledgeable on this chimes in


I have a gen2 GT with 6r80. Might just have to get the 120mm then. Might decide to upgrade fuel system, boostane or meth kit later on.
You have a gen2 with lower compression so I would think you can run the 8.5 psi (115mm) pulley safely on 93. Speak with your tuner anyway
 

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Any luck on the issue yet? I checked those codes and it could be a whole host of issues. Not often you see a "real" issue trigger on both banks at the same time so seems install or tune related.
I assume this issue wasn't there while you were doing your logs with Lund, right?


The meth kit dropped my IAT to about 70F which was below ambient in the dyno room so unlikely a heat issue.
I'm waiting for PBD to get back to me regarding the logs but I did a few more street driving logs and I noticed that timing never stays at the max 18* on WOT even with no positive KR. Varies between 15-18 and usually in the 16 area but I've seen it drop to 14 before.
Looked at my old logs with PBD on the 9.5psi (110mm pulley) and it's the same.....even with no positive KR it doesn't hold max timing.
I know wheel slip pulls timing and that's easy to identify from the logs as it pulls all or almost all of it.
Hopefully someone knowledgeable on this chimes in



You have a gen2 with lower compression so I would think you can run the 8.5 psi (115mm) pulley safely on 93. Speak with your tuner anyway
muffin, what flow nozzle are you using at the moment to lower IAT to 70*.
 

Exploded_Muffin

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muffin, what flow nozzle are you using at the moment to lower IAT to 70*.
Hey @SolarFlare, I'm using the 10 GPH nozzle (Thinking of switching to a higher flow nozzle)

Just looked through the log again. With the hood open, shop fan on, and ambient around 88F.... Idling on the dyno IAT was about 105F. Going through the gears IAT dropped to about 95F.
On the dyno pull in 7th IAT dropped to 57F once the meth kit started injecting around 4,000 rpm then increased to 76F when the pull was stopped around 7,600 rpm.

I have attached the log file of the pull if you're interested
 

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Hey @SolarFlare, I'm using the 10 GPH nozzle (Thinking of switching to a higher flow nozzle)

Just looked through the log again. With the hood open, shop fan on, and ambient around 88F.... Idling on the dyno IAT was about 105F. Going through the gears IAT dropped to about 95F.
On the dyno pull in 7th IAT dropped to 57F once the meth kit started injecting around 4,000 rpm then increased to 76F when the pull was stopped around 7,600 rpm.

I have attached the log file of the pull if you're interested
Thank you. I have a 6gph now installed just haven’t tested it yet
 

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Just got the all-clear from Rob at PBD! Timing is running as expected and the air/fuel/meth+water mixture looks good as well so that'll be my final set-up (11 psi pulley on 93 + WMI)
My tuner is also Rob, but can't seem to get to talk to him. The other tech at PBD recommended me to use the 7.5psi pulley on 93 and a bap but I have seen others use the 8.5psi pulley. Not sure which to get, you make me want to install a meth kit though, which kit do you have?
 

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My tuner is also Rob, but can't seem to get to talk to him. The other tech at PBD recommended me to use the 7.5psi pulley on 93 and a bap but I have seen others use the 8.5psi pulley. Not sure which to get, you make me want to install a meth kit though, which kit do you have?
Rob tunes the FI systems so you'll start having contact with him when you start the tuning process I believe....at least that was the case for me.
I have the Snow kit, made a post last week in this thread talking about my setup.
What are your goals for the car and power level you're looking for?
 

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Rob tunes the FI systems so you'll start having contact with him when you start the tuning process I believe....at least that was the case for me.
I have the Snow kit, made a post last week in this thread talking about my setup.
What are your goals for the car and power level you're looking for?
I am just looking for around 700whp. Something that is not going to break constantly, but will run mid 10's for now.
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