Zrussian13
Well-Known Member
Oh my Lund tuned car already rips. No more tuning needed. Lol But yes hopefully he gets it dialed in soon so he can enjoy!Great, do keep us updated. Once you get it straightened out, you will be all smiles.
Oh my Lund tuned car already rips. No more tuning needed. Lol But yes hopefully he gets it dialed in soon so he can enjoy!Great, do keep us updated. Once you get it straightened out, you will be all smiles.
I haven't. ESS recommended Lund (and Wengard) and I went with Lund. I'll keep that in mind. I'm hoping I'm able to run this without constant octane booster, but I'm starting to get a little worried.Have you contacted Wengerd about what he thinks? He has corrected quite a few other tuner shop issues. Good Luck
didn't know that. (about TC and SC) do i need to just put TC off and that's it? or run a different mode? I've been doing these pulls in normal mode straight up. (wasn't told to do different)You don't think Lund can tune a centrifugal supercharged car? Why spend money on another tune/tuner?
I would make sure traction control and stability control are off. May even want to unplug the "dyno plug" by the airbox. Then go try another pull. The nannies will close the throttle body even if your foot is to the floor.
Hey man, take this advice. Lund tunes some of the fastest and most reliable Coyotes on the planet. They have an excellent track record and I believe you made the right choice. I would NOT and I repeat NOT change tuners.didn't know that. (about TC and SC) do i need to just put TC off and that's it? or run a different mode? I've been doing these pulls in normal mode straight up. (wasn't told to do different)
I know their are people on this forum who do not run Octane Booster with your set up. Some do use it for piece of mind and what Ifs.I haven't. ESS recommended Lund (and Wengard) and I went with Lund. I'll keep that in mind. I'm hoping I'm able to run this without constant octane booster, but I'm starting to get a little worried.
I have a P1X car, friend has a VMP Odin, and we have another local ESS car - when we're all on pump nobody ran any additives. Just like you said, it's not needed if you have good gas. If you push the car hard, race it a lot, or have the boost up to the limit on pump 91/93 is when I would add some form if additive - however people need to remember pump gas is still pump gas. You may get a bad batch and that will make the car rough bad or damage it if your at the limitsI know their are people on this forum who do not run Octane Booster with your set up. Some do use it for piece of mind and what Ifs.
I'll second everything you said. Been tuned by Lund since I hit 5k miles. Went boosted at 48k. Now I'm at 77k still running strong. And Lund helped me out way after my revision windows were closed to help me sort through crazy false knock issues.Hey man, take this advice. Lund tunes some of the fastest and most reliable Coyotes on the planet. They have an excellent track record and I believe you made the right choice. I would NOT and I repeat NOT change tuners.
1. Your on 91 octane. There is only so much you can do on pump 91/93. Doesn't matter what fuel system - return style, what injectors etc. It's limited by the available octane. If your having issues at high rpm, double check everything you installed, throw more boostane in it - and log and send to Lund. My procharged car was acting up at first, Lund ran me through a check list of things - found my BAP was not grounded correctly and it was fixed. Save money, head ache etc and stay with Lund.
2. Don't buy when people say "X" tuner makes 750whp on an ESS car on pump 93. It's not safe, It's inflated data, don't buy the hype.
Lund will take care of you, 99.9% of the time issues are related to fuel quality or user install - not the tune.
I respect everyone that's a tuner, but Lund is hands down the most reputable. Some people get upset for whatever reason at the bigger guy, but they are as big and successful as they are for a reason.
They have the best customer service too. Couldn't be happier on their tune.I'll second everything you said. Been tuned by Lund since I hit 5k miles. Went boosted at 48k. Now I'm at 77k still running strong. And Lund helped me out way after my revision windows were closed to help me sort through crazy false knock issues.
i fully expect to stay with them. not upset, just a bit disappointed that 91 isn't cutting it. but with so many variables, we just have to rule them out one by one. so far, we are still at the test-it-with-boostane part of tuning. i have to run through this tank, then i found a station with apparently the best 91 in town. that'll be my next stop and run some thru there, then fill up again and test with no booster.Hey man, take this advice. Lund tunes some of the fastest and most reliable Coyotes on the planet. They have an excellent track record and I believe you made the right choice. I would NOT and I repeat NOT change tuners.
1. Your on 91 octane. There is only so much you can do on pump 91/93. Doesn't matter what fuel system - return style, what injectors etc. It's limited by the available octane. If your having issues at high rpm, double check everything you installed, throw more boostane in it - and log and send to Lund. My procharged car was acting up at first, Lund ran me through a check list of things - found my BAP was not grounded correctly and it was fixed. Save money, head ache etc and stay with Lund.
2. Don't buy when people say "X" tuner makes 750whp on an ESS car on pump 93. It's not safe, It's inflated data, don't buy the hype.
Lund will take care of you, 99.9% of the time issues are related to fuel quality or user install - not the tune.
I respect everyone that's a tuner, but Lund is hands down the most reputable. Some people get upset for whatever reason at the bigger guy, but they are as big and successful as they are for a reason.
Glad to hear this last log didn't cut out. Hope it all works out for you!I have what Lund is calling the final tune now. i need to make another highway pull on it. let me know how i n
i fully expect to stay with them. not upset, just a bit disappointed that 91 isn't cutting it. but with so many variables, we just have to rule them out one by one. so far, we are still at the test-it-with-boostane part of tuning. i have to run through this tank, then i found a station with apparently the best 91 in town. that'll be my next stop and run some thru there, then fill up again and test with no booster.
with the octane booster, it runs like nuts. i guess the computer needs a bit of time to adjust to it, but a couple of drives later, it's just asking to spin out all the time. nice.
also, did my 3rd 2500-7500 run today. drag mode with no TC. it went thru 7600rpm with zero issues. so TC was the ticket. resent that log to lund again to see if anything else needs to change.
If Lund told you that the cut was due to traction control, it was due to traction control. They can see the torque source PIDs in the log which tells them when it interferes with power. Like others have said, turn off traction control and advance-trac and try another log. Try dropping tire pressure to 25psi which may help you get enough traction to get a clean log. Hope this helps.i had a hard cutout at 7400rpm each freaking time i ran it. even with this full bottle of $32 octanium an 3/4 tank of 91. Lund recommended shifting at 7200rpm normally, i'll probably shift at 7k (but i'll let the eventual dyno session tell me for sure)
what exact octane booster are you buying?
There’s no way you are getting actual knock on a 125mm pulley with a G2 on a gen 2 car. It has to be false or an issue with TC. Unless you got a very very bad tank of fuel. We commonly run 115mm pulleys on gen 2 cars on pump fuel. 120mm is plenty safe, 125 is super conservative.I have what Lund is calling the final tune now. i need to make another highway pull on it. let me know how i n
i fully expect to stay with them. not upset, just a bit disappointed that 91 isn't cutting it. but with so many variables, we just have to rule them out one by one. so far, we are still at the test-it-with-boostane part of tuning. i have to run through this tank, then i found a station with apparently the best 91 in town. that'll be my next stop and run some thru there, then fill up again and test with no booster.
with the octane booster, it runs like nuts. i guess the computer needs a bit of time to adjust to it, but a couple of drives later, it's just asking to spin out all the time. nice.
also, did my 3rd 2500-7500 run today. drag mode with no TC. it went thru 7600rpm with zero issues. so TC was the ticket. resent that log to lund again to see if anything else needs to change.
that's really good to hear. i hope it was just a crappy 91 tank. i'm not discriminate on the 91 i put in there, just anything from wherever. sounds like i might need to pay attention now. i'll know more over the next 2 fillups.There’s no way you are getting actual knock on a 125mm pulley with a G2 on a gen 2 car. It has to be false or an issue with TC. Unless you got a very very bad tank of fuel. We commonly run 115mm pulleys on gen 2 cars on pump fuel. 120mm is plenty safe, 125 is super conservative.
how do you turn off advance track? i only see tc on/off....If Lund told you that the cut was due to traction control, it was due to traction control. They can see the torque source PIDs in the log which tells them when it interferes with power. Like others have said, turn off traction control and advance-trac and try another log. Try dropping tire pressure to 25psi which may help you get enough traction to get a clean log. Hope this helps.
On 91?We commonly run 115mm pulleys on gen 2 cars on pump fuel.