enclosed trailer for 350r

[GPG]

A/G 2017 350R HR443

Want to buy a enclosed trailer that can handle my 350 with as little loading and securing issues as possible. I know the splitter and with of the car options are limited. Any of you with experience in this area , would like your two cents! As soon as I can figure out how to post photo of car I will.

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[Etchhead]

I used race Race Ramps for my Radical to load into my enclosed trailer as it was really low. I'll be using them for R as well. Then for securing I have etrack along the floor in the tire tracks. Over the wheel works well. I'll be giving all of this a try end of Aug for a LS outing. My trailer is a 24', anything smaller is tight. Then that also means you'll need a decent truck to pull... it all gets pricy quickly!

 

[mattlqx]

24’ x 8.5’ and as long of race ramps as you can get will work. Securing is always fun with an enclosed. Over wheel tie downs are easiest, but I’m a masochist and use the tie down kit that bolts to the frame. I have to get really close and personal with the car to get it hooked up though.

 

[snaproll]

Race ramps as Etchead posted work well and are light and easy. Fold down aluminum ramps mounted on the door are nice too. Get a lower trailer. I have a 28' ATC and its about 1.5' taller overall and the dovetail is higher too. Way harder to pull than any other trailer I've had due to the extra drag - even though it's aluminum. My 2500 Suburban is pretty well tapped out where an F350 would pull it easy. Etrack on the floor under the tires from front to back with straps over the top of the tire is easiest and most secure in my experience. Having watched a lot of trailer purchases around the track, I think It's better to buy a nice used trailer than a cheap new trailer. The paint is the first thing to go but a wrap can fix a chalky trailer and is possible to DIY for under $1,000.

Some days I think about a nice open trailer would simplify life. Then it rains.

 

[Arctic_Ragtop]

Make sure you get one with an escape hatch on the driver's side. I used a friends 22+4' V Nose with a dovetail and an escape hatch to get mine home. It was a tight fit, there was 1/2" between the wheel and the trailer fender on both sides. There is actually a photo of it in my Avatar.

I didn't have Race Ramps although I will next time, so I mitered the ends of two 2x12's to get the nose onto the trailer door and got the nose in, then get out and hooked axle straps over the square bracing behind both front wheels, and through the spring coil pockets in the rear. I then hooked ratchet straps to both of those and had my wife walk them in while I inched the car into the trailer, making sure that the exhaust and undercarriage cleared, once the car was in I Dukes of Hazzard-ed it out the window through the open escape hatch (thankful this trailer had one) as the door would not open inside the trailer. I was then able to tighten the ratchet straps in an X pattern and the car didn't move for 1000 miles of the 1100 mile trip. I did lose one of the rear axle straps on the last 100 km, as it was rubbing on the spring coil pocket and not around an axle. The car moved to one side (as there was only 1/2" on either side) and was touching the trailer fender, so I loosened them all off, repositioned the car and made it home safe with no damage. It was the tightest fit that I could possibly imagine and an R splitter will make it even more challenging, but you'll make it happen. Just make sure you get one with a dove tail and an escape hatch. In my case the V nose was nice because I could access the front without having to scrape by the fender and the man door on the passengers side.

 

[ShelbyJ]

Have you looked at Jimglo in Kingman

 

[snaproll]

Good point about the escape hatch. It's easy not to have with a race car but would be nice with a street car assuming it was properly located. On my Wells Cargo though, it wasn't in the right place to be useable and too high to open the car door through. If the car is back a bit to balance the trailer, the car door was way behind the escape hatch. Ymmv.

 

[Etchhead]

My hatch works pretty well depending on car and where you need to put it for weight. The GT3 was a bit more forward (engine out back) but Inwas still able to open the door enough for a foot on ground. I have a handle above the escape hatch to much easier to pull in/out.

Get as much room, lights, etrack, power, winch, storage, racks, as possible. Also go for heavy duty (5200lb) axels. If you go new have it built to your specs. All of the add ones are pennies in factory.

 

[MaxWW]

I bought a 24' X 8.5' Pace enclosed trailer for mine. I put in the recessed VersaTie track form Mac's Custom Tie Downs in. Had to run a wood router through some of the wood floor to lay it in. I jade pace put some 3/16 steel plates in the frame of the trailer to give something for the VersaTie something more substantial that wood to bolt to. The trailer has what they call the "ultimate escape door" It allows you to easily remove the inner fender so the car door can swing out with plenty of clearance from the trailer tires. I do have to use a coupe 8' lengths of 2"x10" boards to avoid scrapping the splitter. I'm happy with it all

 

[snaproll]

Those aircraft style tracks look nice. How do you tighten the straps down? It just looks like it connects straight down without a ratchet strap.

 

[MaxWW]

Those aircraft style tracks look nice. How do you tighten the straps down? It just looks like it connects straight down without a ratchet strap.

You can't really see it in the picture but there are 3 attach points for each wheel strap. The strap kinda turns a 90 degree corner and runs parallel to the floor. The ratchet portion is on this horizontal part.

I am going to take my trailer to KC later to pick up a Boss 302 LS that my brother bought later this week. I'll get some better pictures and post them then.

 

[MaxWW]

Here's a picture I found the Mac's Custom Tie Downs website

 

[spinningwheel]

Get a Featherlite with 6 foot extensions(ramps) with rear support across the top of back door. They store on the door and fold out when loading or unloading. It's option code 6312. I know Featherlite's are more expensive but worth it.

 

[GPG]

Thanks for the pictures and info. With the mac's tie down straps are you experiencing any issues with scratching or rubbing the CF wheels?

 

[snaproll]

In that case, you could do away with the basket and just go over the tire. Autohauler supply has every strap imaginable for this kinda stuff.

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