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Edit : #8 post : is the sequence to remove Base handling package camber pins.

Flyhalf

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Do we guys have any new guidance about those?
Are they just regular slide camber plates or do you need to remove a pin to move them?

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Ninjak

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There are 3 screws you need to remove to adjust the camber. I guess Ford did not want to set the camber for the street for cars coming off the line.

Goose has a nice video on how to do this, you can probably grab it on Youtube.
 
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Flyhalf

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There are 3 screws you need to remove to adjust the camber. I guess Ford did not want to set the camber for the street for cars coming off the line.

Goose has a nice video on how to do this, you can probably grab it on Youtube.
I thought that was for the CFTP only.

Fun fact. Went to ford and in theur system thry say that to correvt the camber you need to grind and enlarge the hole on the strut lol

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Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
Opening up the top hole has been suggested by the factory and the aftermarket for years as one of the ways to allow some or more adjustability. I'd do that before I ever used "camber bolts."

Just know that the factory plates aren't as user friendly as some of the ones available from Maximum, Vorshlag, etc.
 
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Flyhalf

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Opening up the top hole has been suggested by the factory and the aftermarket for years as one of the ways to allow some or more adjustability. I'd do that before I ever used "camber bolts."

Just know that the factory plates aren't as user friendly as some of the ones available from Maximum, Vorshlag, etc.
I've noticed lol.
 

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Snoopy49

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I notice that you don't have a GT500 listed as one of your vehicles. Is this question regarding a 2020-21 GT500?
 
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Ninjak

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I thought that was for the CFTP only.
Nope. I have it on my 2021, and the screws are indeed there. If I want to adjust I would need to remove them.
 
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Flyhalf

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Nope. I have it on my 2021, and the screws are indeed there. If I want to adjust I would need to remove them.
Ok done.
I've done much faster than the video :)
Remove tire
Jack under the rotor to substain the weight and be able to play with the strut height
Remove top nut of end link of away bar
With a 18mm socket and a 17mm wrench to avoid the bolt to spin
Remove 13mm ride height bracket (still bot sure is necessary)
Loose and remove the 15mm top nuts
Slow lower the jack to disingage the top bolts from the holes.

Rotate the camber plate to be able to reach the 5/16 allen key bolt from the top big hole .
Tip :MARK one of the 3 bolts of the top strut to be sure u repositioning it in the right hole easier

Use a drill to remove them

Jack up the strut up back to the 3 holes.
Secure and
Reinstall all.

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Goose17

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There are 3 screws you need to remove to adjust the camber. I guess Ford did not want to set the camber for the street for cars coming off the line.

Goose has a nice video on how to do this, you can probably grab it on Youtube.
Thanks for the shoutout. Yes, the screws must be removed to adjust the plates, which incidentally max out at the track alignment specs for the CFTP.

 

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Flyhalf

Flyhalf

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Thanks for the shoutout. Yes, the screws must be removed to adjust the plates, which incidentally max out at the track alignment specs for the CFTP.

I watched the video too :)
I was able to do it faster taking about 10mins with the method i wrote above :)
 

Goose17

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I watched the video too :)
I was able to do it faster taking about 10mins with the method i wrote above :)
Are you getting a track alignment and are you going to leave it in track or switch back and forth?
 
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Flyhalf

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Are you getting a track alignment and are you going to leave it in track or switch back and forth?
Track allignment and leave it.
A- 2.2 camber is ok. Toe is what kill tires. I will keep toe to zero. (Usually i toe out 1/8 total.
 
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