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illtal

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lol.

I bet there were more than a few eyebrows raised!

I’m a 6r80, so top of 5th is jail time here.
They did warn me that it was almost too much speed for most roller only type dynos
Then I explained to them it was on an empty interstate. I think i have to logs somewhere.
The dyno I go to locally has an eddy current type dyno.
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kcobra

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Hi guys. I know this question has been asked before but I need to go there. Stage 2 2650. Installing ID 1050s. What is the simple, best way to do this? My mechanic hasn't been able to do it and claims they don't fit. Some suggest no clips, some suggest slotting the rail holes? What is the 100% best way?
 

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Got her on the dyno with the Soler 103mm Throttle Body. 701 rwhp / 585 rwtq. Dyno guys said the logs showed air/fuel as rich as 8 at one point. Sending those logs to Lund today. Ran her at the track last Sunday. 11.4/124 was my best run. No traction. I used Nitto NT05R drag radials in a 305/35-R19 size. I tried different air pressures of 19, 18 and 17 psi, plus I warmed them up really good in the burnout box. They still wouldn't stick and spun through the 1st three shifts in the A10. DA was over 7000 ft, so that didn't help either. She's fat at over 4,000 lbs. Dyno guys suggested starting at 22psi for the Nittos, since she weighs so much. I'll try that next weekend...

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Torinate

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Nice!

So you got your 700 whp!

you went from 697 to 701 with the TB? Kinda thought it would be more. Nevertheless, that’s awesome!

What were your 60 foot times at the track? 1/8 mile time and mph. How many mph did you pick up on the back end?
 

illtal

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Hi guys. I know this question has been asked before but I need to go there. Stage 2 2650. Installing ID 1050s. What is the simple, best way to do this? My mechanic hasn't been able to do it and claims they don't fit. Some suggest no clips, some suggest slotting the rail holes? What is the 100% best way?
I think everyone slots the rail holes to make it easier to install
 

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mikengail

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Nice!

So you got your 700 whp!

you went from 697 to 701 with the TB? Kinda thought it would be more. Nevertheless, that’s awesome!

What were your 60 foot times at the track? 1/8 mile time and mph. How many mph did you pick up on the back end?
I was expecting a little more too. Lund says the bigger TB would come into its own with more boost and E85. ID1050x should be here by Friday. Dual pump return style fuel system, after that. No hurry on my end. I need a better rear tire/wheel combo more than anything else right now.

I'm going to to give the Nittos another try next weekend starting at 22 psi and going down a pound or two, after that. If that doesn't work, then I'll try a 17x11 rear wheel and M/T or Hoosier slicks. Throwing more power won't help, if I can't get her to stick.

Lastly, I'm going to watch the DA predictions and try to run when it's under 5,000 ft. Hopefully, they will start running in the evening here soon. This is the first time I've ever raced this car. I didn't get the roll bar installed, until too late in the season last year...

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mikengail

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I think everyone slots the rail holes to make it easier to install
That's what I did when I changed injectors last. Plus, I used a slightly longer bolt. MUCH easier to install. Well, nothing is easy about those fuel rails, but slotting the bolt holes makes it considerably less difficult. I also didn't use the fuel rail clips. I have a set of ID1050x injectors arriving sometime next week. I'm not going to bother installing them, until I get a return-style fuel system for E85. Good luck...
 

Torinate

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Anyone had the supercharger cover off and the brick out? Got any picks? Wondering if you can see the bypass valve from there. Wondering if there’s any way to clean the butterfly itself.

Thanks in advance!!
 

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Do you edelbrock stage 2 stock-tune guys notice the throttle acts like a switch when you get deeper into it? Like it's pretty tame at light throttle but once you go past a certain point you get all the torque *right now*?
 

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Do you edelbrock stage 2 stock-tune guys notice the throttle acts like a switch when you get deeper into it? Like it's pretty tame at light throttle but once you go past a certain point you get all the torque *right now*?
Hey Mike.

Stage 1.5 lol. Aftermarket tune. You’ve reviewed a few logs for me in the past. Didn’t see anything obvious. Still have the off idle stumble and idle misfires. Still looking for a fix! The off idle stumble is sporadic but when it does it, it’s like the car just sputters for a second and then goes. The occasional exhaust backfire when letting off gas at part throttle. It will pop once then normal.

I do have a specific thread for the idle misfires. Maybe I’ll find it and update or at least bring it to the top lol.

I’ve played with the vacuum for the bypass valve and changed the nitrous pill slowing or speeding up the boost drop off. Same issues and no change. Vacuum tested for leaks many times. The usual diagnostic stuff done - cleaned MAF, changed plugs x 2, moved coils, cleaned injectors etc. I’m stumped.

Thought I’d see if there is a physical way to see the actual bypass butterfly and if it needs to be cleaned. Stabs in the dark looking for answers as everything so far hasn’t worked.

Is it a tune thing? Is it a mechanical thing? No cel. No stored codes. I know there’s an issue but the car doesn’t know.

Ideas are always welcomed!
 

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@Torinate sounds very much like a fuel thing. Was it Dino tuned or remote?
 

Torinate

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@Torinate sounds very much like a fuel thing. Was it Dino tuned or remote?
Remote tuned. Tune is 4+ years old. These issues started 3 years ago. I’ve lived with them since. Been frustrating because I don’t know if they’re related to each other. Idle misfires and the hesitation.

It gives the impression of a vacuum leak but it’s been tested 2+ times for over 2 hours. Nothing. Gauge reads 21-22 vacuum at idle.

Fuel is consistently 94 octane Petro Canada with occasion 93 from Mobil and Esso.

Fuel trims don’t fall off at all. DW 95 injectors. Stock pump and BAP.

Car is winter stored in a heated garage.

One thing I’ve thought of is pulling the injectors out again and sending them to be professionally cleaned and flow tested (and new o-rings) and see if anything shows up. Of course, putting the injectors in was the absolutely biggest pain in the butt with the whole install, so I’ve been dreading doing that.

But yea, a leaky injector *could* cause the exhaust back fire if it drips on decel. Would it cause the other issues? Not sure. The idle misfires are all over the map as what cylinder. I can literally watch mode 6 data on Forscan and hear the exhaust pop on idle and watch the misfire count go up.

Have done KAM reset, misfire monitor reset in Forscan and crank relearn on nGauge without any change.

Compression test was spot on.

No codes have ever come up.

I’m stumped…
 

kcobra

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Do you edelbrock stage 2 stock-tune guys notice the throttle acts like a switch when you get deeper into it? Like it's pretty tame at light throttle but once you go past a certain point you get all the torque *right now*?
I just helped a friend tune his 18 Stage 2. We had issues with a certain tuner. Anyways, long story short. With one tuners tune, the throttle and boost acts exactly like you are saying, with another tuner, the car is smooth as can be without this on and off feeling. I believe it is all in the tune.
 

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I determined that the edelbrock tb model used in their stage 2 tune is inaccurate. It basically results in the throttle not opening enough at part throttle. There is logic that pushes the blade wide open once you get past a specified pedal % so it doesn’t affect wot. But the result is low torque at part pedal. There is something called IPC (independent plausibility check) that checks the engine final torque output to make sure it’s reasonable (unintended acceleration mitigation). Edelbrock lowered the IPC min torque values drastically so it wouldn’t set torque error codes with the inaccurate tb model. I spent some time fixing the tb model and once I was done, not only did it satisfy the torque check with very tight oem-like limits, but it also has much better part pedal response and linearity.
 

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If using a 2018+ Stage 1 carb eo E-force Kit stock with no mods, is the Edelbrock competition Cold Air Intake # 15811 plug and play? or would need a tune adjustment and might not fit to the stage 1 throttle body? Or it only fits on Stage 2? the descriptions are not clear and just simply say for use with edelbrock e-force superchargers 15-23. or no benefit as all if keeing carb eo and the stock 91 tune?
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