Eboost2 Vacuum/Boost Readings Higher All of a Sudden - TT Hellion Kit - Videos Inside

[Cookiemonster]

UPDATED w/ VIDEOS ON 2nd POST
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I have a top-mounted Hellion TT Kit on my 2019 GT that had something happen when I was doing a highway pull recently. I was building boost quickly and then all of a sudden it was as if boost just 'let go' - the engine didn't sputter or loud bangs or anything.

I noticed that the Eboost2 I've been using was flashing "2ER" but I searched and could not find anything related to this code flashing. It eventually went away and I decided to be safe I'd reset the eboost. I did that and noticed that after shutting the car down and firing it back up to idle that vacuum was reading -8 to -9 instead of the usualy -15 to -20 it had before.

At this point I thought, ok a vacuum line popped off at some point, so I traced all the lines, everything seems to be attached, can't find any loose lines at all - checked the wastegates and bovs, no loose lines there either.

I start the car up again the next morning and same thing with reading less vacuum than normal...I rev the car after it is warm and notice the eboost is reading boost while revving where it never did before, recording peaks of 5-6psi just from hard revving.

I decided to do a light pull and see what the eboost showed - I normally run ~12-13psi at peak (E85) and upon about 75% throttle rocketed up to 14psi...but the car didn't seem to propel itself forward under boost like it does normally when it is running 2psi less - it felt sluggish.


BOV is open under idle, and I keep reading conflicting information stating that at idle it should be open because vacuum holds it open and boost forces it closed, and then the other side that says it should be closed at idle so as to be able to build boost quickly, then opening only to relieve boost. If the BOV is supposed to be closed, I think one of the bovs or both's spring has broken, giving no resistance for it to open against - but this doesn't explain my change in vacuum/boost numbers, does it?

Really looking for help here as nothing in my previous XP with turbochargers adds up to the variables I have come across. Was really hoping it was as simple as a vacuum connection that popped off but seems to not be the case...

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[Cookiemonster]

UPDATE: Took a vid of driver's side BOV while idle - revving. Something is definitely up - before the issue, it was tough to build boost revving @ idle and I may break 1 psi with a WOT rev to 5k. Now it seems like the BOV stays open much, MUCH longer but my eboost says I'm building a ton more boost, which is contradictory to BOV staying open longer when revving.

vids are both too large to attach so I'm having to link it...

 

[Jhonda]

I can’t watch vids

 

[Cookiemonster]

I can’t watch vids

Try these...

 

[Jhonda]

Sorry no luck it says if the owner of this video has granted you access please sign in. How bout just posting the address

 

[Cookiemonster]

Sorry - forum automatically changes the address I try to embed. I realized the last ones I uploaded to youtube were still in Draft format, so I changed them to public. Should be good now.

 

[Dominant1]

Are those the bov’s that came with the kit?

 

[ugstang17]

A guess would be a BOV issue. The intake manifold readings on the dash indicate you should be good there. I had a similar problem on a PD setup. Bypass (works similar to a BOV as I recall) failedto close staying in bypass. Vacuum was fine, however there was no boost. Found it mechanically sticking.

 

[Cookiemonster]

Are those the bov’s that came with the kit?

Yes, they are re-branded Turbo XS Race Port BOVs. Hellion rebrands them for their TT kits.

 

[Cookiemonster]

A guess would be a BOV issue. The intake manifold readings on the dash indicate you should be good there. I had a similar problem on a PD setup. Bypass (works similar to a BOV as I recall) failedto close staying in bypass. Vacuum was fine, however there was no boost. Found it mechanically sticking.

Thanks for chiming in - Did you just have to lube it up or replace the diaphragm? What was the solution for you?

 

[15GTPP]

What do you have the bovs set to? Soft or hard? We had an issue with one of mine sticking open at first as well and we took it off and put both of them on a harder setting and everything was fine after that.

 

[ugstang17]

Thanks for chiming in - Did you just have to lube it up or replace the diaphragm? What was the solution for you?

In the case of the bypass valve on the Saleen super charger I referenced having, I had to replace a part of the linkage and get the stroke adjustment on it properly set so it would not stick in bypass when vacuum level went into boost. Your BOV will be different so I cannot answer your question on specifics with regard to a fix to the current unit. Sorry. Hellion would be who I turn to on Monday about it. Your best source is the direct source. I can't imagine them providing anything less than stellar support.

 

[Cookiemonster]

What do you have the bovs set to? Soft or hard? We had an issue with one of mine sticking open at first as well and we took it off and put both of them on a harder setting and everything was fine after that.

Good question - I will take them off and check them out. I honestly don't remember what they were set to lol. That whole experience with the install was a bit of a cluster due to misfitting parts and additional parts being needed to make it all work, but that is another story.

 

[Cookiemonster]

So as an update, I took both BOVs off and turned them to pretty much full 'hard' (joke away). Installed them back on and no change.

I noticed that once again, my factory PP gauge on vacuum is reading what it has always read, which once matched my eboost2, but eboost2 is now seeing WAY less vacuum/more pressure than is actually happening.

I can do 15% throttle and achieve or 1psi. I bump that to 25% throttle and I can hit 3psi - with no pull from the engine that used to be there.

It's as if something with the eboost2 is messed up - or something post manifold between the eboost2 and BOVs is off - BOVs are STILL open during idle, and I know this is wrong after talking to turboxs about it and reading their manual for the raceport bov.

I could give hellion a call, but this issue just came out of the blue and doesn't seem to be common with my set of symptoms.

 

[ugstang17]

Here again not being an expert on turbos I failedto think of this. So I am learning along with you. The controller is in control of the waste gate. If the waste gate is not responding it may be stuck or whatever controls it is broken electrically or mechanically. I am not sure if the waste gate would have a default level on it, but this could elude to your problem as well. SC's don't have waste gates obviously because they are crank driven rather than exhaust driven. So I failed to factor that into the equation. You have ruled out the BOV and this is very good. Its great troubleshooting. Now its time to check the pressure side of the system.

First check the 5amp fuse on the boost device. It is a red wire according to the install manual. If blown replace and try again. If it continues to blow you have a short in the system and you need to isolate it. If the fuse is good move on.

Next inspect the hoses from the solenoid to the waste gate(s). Fix any cracks or broken lines. If all is good move on.


As I understand it this device uses pulse wave modulation to control the on off pulse state of a solenoid that applies pressure to the the wastegate to generate more or less boost.

The signal going to the solenoid gets there via a gray and brown wire. Make sure those wires have not gotten pulled loose, pinched or broken anywhere along the wire run.

Under normal operation I would assume that there should be some air venting out of the vent tube on the solenoid (see the install manual attached assuming it is the correct one). I am assuming and it should change as you throttle up or off. You should also be able to feel the solenoid turning on and off. If not the next step would be to get out a meter and see if there is a DC signal 3.5 - 12vdc being generated to the solenoid. If the signal appears proper the next thing would be to check resistance of the solenoid coil. I am guessing it will be somewhere around 30 ohms +/- 15 ohms (E/I=R so 12vdc divided by 2.5 - estimating max curernt on the solenoid would be 2.5 amps at full 12vdc command) IF ti reads infinity it is bad and needs to be replaced. If this all checks good...your problem resides possibly within the wastegate.

https://830533.app.netsuite.com/cor...4677&c=830533&h=908eabb7550ad12a9064&_xt=.pdf

Good luck. I troubleshoot for a living. This is new stuff to me but easy enough to see the control process through and provide you some basic electrical troubleshooting if you have a meter and no how to use one. Best of luck and hope this helps you out.

Turbo folks please correct me if this process is wrong or needs some redirection. It seems logical based on the issues I have helped my friend resolve on his crane and his 2008 F250 diesel.

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