Ebay got me with a fake 'OEM' plastic drain plug. Input wanted.

[br_an]

I researched the UPR and Ronin plugs before buying a replacement, but neither convinced me. First of all, metal could damage the plastic pan, and since I'd remove the plug every time anyway to drain the most old oil, that was a deal-breaker alone. Plus the UPR is super long, doesn't lock, and it's not protected, so it was out. The Ronin requires a separate piece that if you lose you're screwed, so didn't like it either. And since I was able to control oil flow with the stock one perfectly fine, I'll keep it. The only drawback was no magnet, but I slapped one on the oil filter, so it should have the same effect. Bottom like is I'll keep using OEM plugs. It'd take me like 8 oil changes to catch up to one of those, or 40K miles, and doubt I'd keep the car that long anyway. Ha ha.

I have a UPR drain plug and I don't agree with anything that you said about it. It is high quality, the same size as the OEM plug and in no way could it damage the oil pan. It works/fits identically to the OEM plug other than having a magnet. You're welcome to have your own opinion of course, just thought I'd share my experience with the product.

Sponsored

 

[2018OFPP1?2]

Reused the plug twice on the 'stang and three times on the f150 so far with no issues.

 

[Elp_jc]

hard to believe people would keep buying the UPR if it damaged the pan.

As I CLEARLY stated, I remove the plug EVERY TIME I change the oil. BOTH UPR and Ronin state they DO NOT recommend removing the plug once installed. I never said it'd damage the pan, but it obviously can due to that statement. Otherwise, why recommend that? So do whatever you want with your cars, but if the manufacturer recommends NOT removing the plug, and I want to remove it every time, the only logical conclusion is that something can get damaged, and plastic will always lose vs metal. Plus the design on both leaves a lot to be desired as well. And that's MY opinion .

 

[Elp_jc]

On the Levittown link posted somewhere above, the drain plug is p/n KX6Z-6730-A, the one with the handle, which lists the Mustang GT/Bullitt/etc. I searched for p/n FT4Z-6730-A, which is the one with the recessed square, and it also shows as active, and it's actually more expensive, and lists some EB engines, but only Mustang Shelbys, so apparently nothing was superseded. You can use both.

Finally, I was mistaken thinking the nubs were on the plug; they're on the pan. So the only concern on the plug could be the O-ring. Apparently it's safe to use the plug at least twice, but will continue to read related threads to make that decision on my 3rd oil change. I'll use OEM square plugs myself, which should be made of higher quality components, I'd guess (Shelbys are 'abused' more than Mustangs), since it's more expensive.

 

[br_an]

BOTH UPR and Ronin state they DO NOT recommend removing the plug once installed.

LMAO, where did you get that??

 

[Elp_jc]

From their own mouths. I called both . And in at least one case, it says on their website, if I remember correctly. But again, even if that wasn't the case, I still wouldn't buy neither one. The good news is I didn't have any issues with the stock plug, so case closed for me .

 

[el-guapin]

UPR sells two different oil drain plugs. This is their most popular:

Clearly this one has to be removed to drain the oil. It is just like the OEM but billet.

This one could be removed but it is not needed as it is more of a valve to control the release of oil.
Both designs have magnets. Both are superior in quality than OEM.

 

[ice445]

I had no idea you were supposed to completely replace the drain plug every oil change... seems very wasteful. I've done 2 oil changes and re-used the stock one both times. Seems fine.

It is wasteful. But its not meant for you and I, its meant for the lube techs who break everything they touch.

 

[rangerryda]

It is wasteful. But its not meant for you and I, its meant for the lube techs who break everything they touch.

Fair point.

 

[Adamone92]

As I CLEARLY stated, I remove the plug EVERY TIME I change the oil. BOTH UPR and Ronin state they DO NOT recommend removing the plug once installed. I never said it'd damage the pan, but it obviously can due to that statement. Otherwise, why recommend that? So do whatever you want with your cars, but if the manufacturer recommends NOT removing the plug, and I want to remove it every time, the only logical conclusion is that something can get damaged, and plastic will always lose vs metal. Plus the design on both leaves a lot to be desired as well. And that's MY opinion .

Its also VERY CLEAR that you don't know what you are talking about. The linked UPR drain bolt from lethal, which is also CLEARLY the one that i am talking about, HAS to be removed to even drain the oil. (Notice the unnecessary use of caps like you did? A bit obnoxious no?)

But hey. You know better than everyone else i guess. It seems really foolish and silly of someone who has seemingly researched this so much and cares so much about the drain plug to be cheap to save a few bucks and order one off of ebay. Give me a break.

I cant believe there is now two pages of this and you are actually arguing about a drain plug. If you wish to be cheap and get the inferior plastic plugs, or order from eBay go ahead, but it is an inferior component that is holding in your oil and part of what you remove every change. After using both, i felt way more likely do damage the pan with the plastic plug than i would the UPR. (The non draining one). I havent used the draining one but im sure it's great too.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

You can score the OEM one from Amazon, $10-12 shipped to your door (if you don't feel like hitting up a dealer).

When I did my first change a couple of months ago, I had one on standby, but wound up just reusing the one I removed. I actually got all my supplies from Amazon, plug, oil and filter, everything for ~$60

Yeah, the square hole vs. finger tabs are compatible, I think they moved away from the one that used a tool to reduce the chance of overtightening breaking it (vs. using your fingers).

I seriously considered changing to a nice billet part, but figured as little as I drive, I probably won't even do another change before I sell my car

 

[Elp_jc]

The point of changing the oil plug has been missed. It’s not the actually plug itself but the o-rings that Ford wants replaced.

That's what I suspected was the weak link . May I ask where did you get replacement O-rings, and a link, or p/n? Not sure what material the OEM ones are made of, but if we can get some of at least the same quality, it should be a lot cheaper than buying the whole plug. A Butyl (or better) O-ring would be perfect, since it could be re-used for sure, if needed. With the smooth plastic surface on the oil pan, the O-ring is not going to be damaged, unless the material degraded with heat.

At any rate, found an OEM Ford plug for $10 delivered, and was planning to order 2. But if we can get O-rings, then I'd just order one plug and several O-rings, and change the O-ring every time, like you do with cartridge oil filters. It'd be a lot cheaper to replace O-ring every time than the whole plug. Thanks in advance for the info.

 

[Adamone92]

That's what I suspected was the weak link . May I ask where did you get replacement O-rings, and a link, or p/n? Not sure what material the OEM ones are made of, but if we can get some of at least the same quality, it should be a lot cheaper than buying the whole plug. A Butyl (or better) O-ring would be perfect, since it could be re-used for sure, if needed. With the smooth plastic surface on the oil pan, the O-ring is not going to be damaged, unless the material degraded with heat.

At any rate, found an OEM Ford plug for $10 delivered, and was planning to order 2. But if we can get O-rings, then I'd just order one plug and several O-rings, and change the O-ring every time, like you do with cartridge oil filters. It'd be a lot cheaper to replace O-ring every time than the whole plug. Thanks in advance for the info.

Just be careful with the oem plugs. I broke one of the arms off of one when removing it. Thats what made me look into alternate solutions.

 

[Strokerswild]

Zero issues with the Ronin I have in my F150.

Zero recurrences of the Exxon Valdez spills when changing oil as well.

 

[Elp_jc]

Just be careful with the oem plugs. I broke one of the arms off of one when removing it.

The plugs don't have any 'arms', brother. I was under the impression they did too, but grabbed the OEM one I kept, and to my surprise, it had no arms. Ha ha. The arms are in the pan, so what exactly did you break? Maybe the 'handle' that you use to remove it? If yes, that's part of the reason why I ordered the eBay one with the square hole. And will also order the OEM with the hole too.

Sponsored