Easiest way to stop wheel hop?

[buymycar]

Not into drag racing, but would like to know the easiest way to get rid of the wheel hop.

Thanks in advance

Sponsored

 

[BMR Tech]

BMR Suspension's "Big Three"

Not into drag racing, but would like to know the easiest way to get rid of the wheel hop.

Thanks in advance

The easiest way is to use a better tire that is either larger, or softer for better traction - or both. Something like a Nitto NT05R, Nitto 555R, ToyoR888 or comparable will usually get rid of the majority of the wheel hop "in most situations" assuming they assist with and provide better traction.

Wheel-Hop is caused by two primary factors. The loss and then regaining of traction...and the deflection within the system. Acquiring better traction and stabilizing all components that control the wheel in relation to the chassis is the ultimate answer and resolution to Wheel Hop.

What most of my customers do is, they acquire a few key pieces (mentioned below) for the rear IRS suspension to eliminate the sloppiness and deflection when the power is applied to the rear wheels. They combine that with a better tire and they are very happy.

From BMR Suspension, these are what I call "The Big 3" - this is usually always what I start my customers off with.

CB005 Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit: (lessens rear subframe deflection)
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1543&superpro=0

BK081 Rear Lower Arm Bearing Upgrade: (removes RLCA deflection)
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1808&superpro=0

TCA046 Vertical Links: (controls "knuckle wrap / deflection")
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1572&superpro=0


These are components that I use personally on my own cars, daily drive on, race on, and what are used for many S550 record and race-winning performances.

If you have any questions for me, please do not hesitate to ask.

Good luck in your endeavors! :cheers:

 

[thedalejrfan]

^^^^^^^^

 

[buymycar]

How does it affect the ride quality?

 

[NightParade]

The easiest way is to use a better tire that is either larger, or softer for better traction - or both. Something like a Nitto NT05R, Nitto 555R, ToyoR888 or comparable will usually get rid of the majority of the wheel hop "in most situations" assuming they assist with and provide better traction.

Wheel-Hop is caused by two primary factors. The loss and then regaining of traction...and the deflection within the system. Acquiring better traction and stabilizing all components that control the wheel in relation to the chassis is the ultimate answer and resolution to Wheel Hop.

What most of my customers do is, they acquire a few key pieces (mentioned below) for the rear IRS suspension to eliminate the sloppiness and deflection when the power is applied to the rear wheels. They combine that with a better tire and they are very happy.

From BMR Suspension, these are what I call "The Big 3" - this is usually always what I start my customers off with.

CB005 Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit: (lessens rear subframe deflection)
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1543&superpro=0

BK081 Rear Lower Arm Bearing Upgrade: (removes RLCA deflection)
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1808&superpro=0

TCA046 Vertical Links: (controls "knuckle wrap / deflection")
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1572&superpro=0


These are components that I use personally on my own cars, daily drive on, race on, and what are used for many S550 record and race-winning performances.

If you have any questions for me, please do not hesitate to ask.

Good luck in your endeavors! :cheers:

What he said

 

[brucelinc]

Old thread but it seems like the place to ask my question. My 2016 GT manual with 3.55 gear has factory 20 inch wheels and Pirelli P Zero summer tires. I am not new to drag racing but have never ran this car. I am wondering if wheel hop is going to be a big problem with this tire. In general, are summer tires better for drag racing than ultra performance all-seasons? I do not want to buy dedicated slicks or drag radials. I just want to run the car at the strip occasionally for fun.

 

[Grimace427]

Old thread but it seems like the place to ask my question. My 2016 GT manual with 3.55 gear has factory 20 inch wheels and Pirelli P Zero summer tires. I am not new to drag racing but have never ran this car. I am wondering if wheel hop is going to be a big problem with this tire. In general, are summer tires better for drag racing than ultra performance all-seasons? I do not want to buy dedicated slicks or drag radials. I just want to run the car at the strip occasionally for fun.

Street tires generally will be very sketchy when trying to put down about 400hp to the surface so expect wheel spin regardless of summer/all season. Among summer tires the PZeros can be grippy with lots of heat and higher ambient temps, but overall I really hate them for a street tire. Definitely do not drive on them aggressively in temps below say about 50 degrees(maybe even 60).

I suggest getting the upgrades mentioned above which are good for all driving, not just on the drag strip. After that take it to the strip and see how much fun you have on street tires but be mindful how easy it will be to break traction, not only at launch but also on the 1-2 shift.

If you find it frustrating to run on street tires you will be better off getting a dedicated set of drag tires. Once you get to that point you can ask which specific tires would be a good choice as there are many factors.

 

[brucelinc]

I appreciate the reply, Grimace. Yeah, I know the summer tires are no good in cold weather. I am in Minnesota so we see our share of days where the Mustang sits in the garage.

I keep hearing about wheel hop and that worries me a little. I would replace these summer tires in heartbeat but I am thinking they might hook better and hop less when I go to the track. Ideally, I would have 2 different sets of wheels/tires but that runs into money.

 

[Burkey]

[MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION],
Kelly, is it just my personal observation from attempting to launch on street radials (several types) that the nearer you are to a perfect launch, the more likely you are to get hop?
From my experience, if I blew the tyres off completely there was no issue, but when I found what we might call a near ideal slip amount, the rear end just turned into a circus. :shrug:

 

[brucelinc]

I know wheel hop can be an issue with our cars. I have seen it at my local tracks and read plenty about it. It seems odd to me that magazines like MT or C&D never mention it as an issue. Also, with Line-Lock and Launch Control, Ford has to be aware that people take their cars to the track. Seems like they would have addressed the wheel hop issue.

I just got my first Mustang, a 2016 GT Premium, and I will be taking it to track next summer. I don't want to break the bank so if I start out with the Vertical Links and Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit will that be a reasonable place to start to lesson the wheel hop?

 

[BmacIL]

I know wheel hop can be an issue with our cars. I have seen it at my local tracks and read plenty about it. It seems odd to me that magazines like MT or C&D never mention it as an issue. Also, with Line-Lock and Launch Control, Ford has to be aware that people take their cars to the track. Seems like they would have addressed the wheel hop issue.

I just got my first Mustang, a 2016 GT Premium, and I will be taking it to track next summer. I don't want to break the bank so if I start out with the Vertical Links and Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit will that be a reasonable place to start to lesson the wheel hop?

Yes. They will help significantly.

 

[brucelinc]

The BMR products listed above make sense. The lower control bearing upgrade might be a bigger job to install than I want, though. The Steeda subframe support braces sound like a logical and easy upgrade. Any thoughts on those?

 

[Grimace427]

The BMR products listed above make sense. The lower control bearing upgrade might be a bigger job to install than I want, though. The Steeda subframe support braces sound like a logical and easy upgrade. Any thoughts on those?

You are correct that the bearing install is best for a shop to handle and that the subframe lockout kits are not only far easier to install but are still quite beneficial to the overall feel of the car. I recommend the BMR CB005 along with the Steeda alignment kit together and go from there.

 

[HISSMAN]

I have everything listed but the vertical links, and I haven't hopped since installing them. I am also on NT05's of the 315 variety. But even before going with wider wheels/tires, the hop was gone.

 

[Volstang]

I like mentioned above, the CB005 Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit is fantastic. The Steeda IRS alignment bushings compliment the CB005 Kit perfectly and you install both together. The Cradle Lockout doesn't hurt ride quality in any way and actually help keep the car flat in turns along with aftermarket springs. I have the BMR Vertical Links mentioned above as well. They are an easy install. I also have differential bushings inserts (Poly) and they help eliminate the slop in the soft rubber bushings that Ford uses without adding NVH. I'm very pleased with the way my car rides and how it hooks at the track with M/T ET Street Rs. I only have a tune and CAI for power mods but plan to add a Circle D TC soon to help things get going. You won't be disappointed in the BMR products. Quality parts and excellent customer service.

Sponsored