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We join Amsoil whenever we are low on oil, and then try to buy a few changes for two cars. We only join every 2 or 3 years this way. 5W20 for her, and I now run 5W30 in my 2019 GT. They have some other useful stuff, too, like flexible spout that screws on to the top of the gallon jug. No need for a funnel!

I run the Motocraft 820S race filter. It is still really cheap. I try to add those on to any AutoNation or Levittown order when I am mail ordering other Ford parts.

And I installed the Ronin drain plug at my first change. Haven't done 2nd change yet.
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We join Amsoil whenever we are low on oil, and then try to buy a few changes for two cars. We only join every 2 or 3 years this way. 5W20 for her, and I now run 5W30 in my 2019 GT. They have some other useful stuff, too, like flexible spout that screws on to the top of the gallon jug. No need for a funnel!

I run the Motocraft 820S race filter. It is still really cheap. I try to add those on to any AutoNation or Levittown order when I am mail ordering other Ford parts.

And I installed the Ronin drain plug at my first change. Haven't done 2nd change yet.
_________________________________________

I am also using 5W30 instead of the 5W20, but TX is hotter so the higher viscosity is good.
 

Elp_jc

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Only have 200 miles on the clock now, but will do the first oil change at 1K, to install a magnetic Ronin valve, and put M1 0/30 in there. I'll use my trusty Rhino (heavy duty) ramps I've owned for decades, but always stored inside. They still look like new. They're for 6K lbs, so a small fraction of their capacity. I don't trust the new ones as much, with all the cuts. Poking a hole in the filter is a good idea; will probably do that, and avoid any mess. But always remember to loosen the filter first (to make sure you'll be able to remove it), then poke it with a screwdriver, I guess. Since I only have a 10-qt drain reservoir, will let a few quarts out without releasing the plug, reinstall the plug, put the oil in a container to recycle it, then drain the rest, now with the plug removed. I'm going to remove the Ronin on every oil change, to clean and monitor the magnet, but need to hear from them that it won't damage the oil pan. And will probably have to buy some length of 2x6s to secure the ramps against the garage's bump. Without FWD, the ramps just slide forward, which can be dangerous if one slips more than the other. Since my car is manual, I have to be extra careful, but without a central jacking point in the front, it's probably the least risky method.

EDIT: Hey guys, those using Rhino ramps, does the diffuser clear? I'm thinking 2x6s (or 2x8s) are also needed before the ramps, correct? And what's the smallest size I need to cut them? 2'? Thx.
 
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MaskedRacerX

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Just wanted to cross check the drain plug, for my '19, is this the correct part?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TRT9854/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=A3MYYAGLPNP1IU&psc=1

(I know, there's some nice reusable, but still wanted to confirm the OEM part)



I am also using 5W30 instead of the 5W20, but TX is hotter so the higher viscosity is good.

I'm in Florida, headed into the summer, wondering if I should do 5W30? No track events, mostly cruising (with some occasion "fun runs", however, the car doesn't get used a ton, so it will likely not need another change before it get cooler/cold (cold being relative ..) here.
 

dn1984

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Just wanted to cross check the drain plug, for my '19, is this the correct part?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TRT9854/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=A3MYYAGLPNP1IU&psc=1

(I know, there's some nice reusable, but still wanted to confirm the OEM part)






I'm in Florida, headed into the summer, wondering if I should do 5W30? No track events, mostly cruising (with some occasion "fun runs", however, the car doesn't get used a ton, so it will likely not need another change before it get cooler/cold (cold being relative ..) here.
get this one instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JAU88JK

much easier to get off since you can just use a ratchet. i always buy a new drain plug, just in case
 

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MaskedRacerX

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get this one instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JAU88JK

much easier to get off since you can just use a ratchet. i always buy a new drain plug, just in case
Oh yeah, I had that on in my cart too, I guess the ones with the finger type tightener are the newer design (they were cheaper per since that's a 3 pack for $18 and prime delivery), and the singles are sort of backordered.
 

boB

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Oh yeah, I had that on in my cart too, I guess the ones with the finger type tightener are the newer design (they were cheaper per since that's a 3 pack for $18 and prime delivery), and the singles are sort of backordered.
The three pack notes that they are an aftermarket piece while the single is listed as a OEM piece. Even the dealer's outrageous list price is only $11.50, run down to Bozard and get one. ;)
 

MaskedRacerX

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Cool, on the way from Amazon: (2) 5 Qt Castrol 5W-20 Magnatec Full Synth oil, 4 gal oil drain pan, an OEM drain plug (backup, otherwise, I'll just reuse the existing one), Motorcraft FL500 filter.

~$80, though the pan is a reuse item / tool, and the plug might just be a spare, so this is like a $50 change that will probably be done better than the dealer ...
 

Elp_jc

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Just wanted to cross check the drain plug, for my '19, is this the correct part
It's not, so I'd steer clear of aftermarket parts for something as critical as the oil drain plug. The correct part numbers from Ford are these:

FT4Z-6730-A (with a 3/8" square hole) Replaces BC3Z-6730-A (with a handle).
 

MaskedRacerX

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It's not, so I'd steer clear of aftermarket parts for something as critical as the oil drain plug. The correct part numbers from Ford are these:

FT4Z-6730-A (with a 3/8" square hole) Replaces BC3Z-6730-A (with a handle).
I did :) I had a ton of items in my cart, and I hadn't done a deep dive on the source / manufacturer on everything when I posted.

I got an OEM plug that's sitting in my garage, might do my change tomorrow :D
 

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Elp_jc

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Hey, I'll be right behind you :D. Need to go to Walmart to buy the oil and FL500S filter. Will switch to M1 0/30 at 1K miles. I also want to change the MT-82 tranny and Torsen diff fluids, but might wait until next oil change. The tranny is a little notchy when cold, and takes a while to go away, so was thinking maybe doing it with the first oil change, since I don't drive much (work from home), and the next oil change 5K miles later will for sure be after it gets cold here. Doing research if BG Synchro Shift II is better than the Ford DCT fluid + friction modifier or not for the D4 tranny (it is better for previous versions). Not much info on Torsen, so probably going to stick with Ford fluid + friction modifier on that one for sure. Which oil are you using? And are you going to drive the car on ramps, or use jacks to lift it and then ramps or jack stands under the front wheels? Thx.
 

MaskedRacerX

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I'm going to use my Rhino ramps, put them at the rear of the garage, drive the car front first (I usually back in), so can close up, get some AC, avoid the monstrous mosquitos around here. I went with the factory 5W20 spec, I picked up Castrol Magnetec full synth at $20 per 5 quart container, the FL-500S was $5, everything from Amazon.

I'm on an A10 now, so I just ignore transmission maintenance :D
 

boB

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Hey, I'll be right behind you :D. Need to go to Walmart to buy the oil and FL500S filter. Will switch to M1 0/30 at 1K miles. I also want to change the MT-82 tranny and Torsen diff fluids, but might wait until next oil change. The tranny is a little notchy when cold, and takes a while to go away, so was thinking maybe doing it with the first oil change, since I don't drive much (work from home), and the next oil change 5K miles later will for sure be after it gets cold here. Doing research if BG Synchro Shift II is better than the Ford DCT fluid + friction modifier or not for the D4 tranny (it is better for previous versions). Not much info on Torsen, so probably going to stick with Ford fluid + friction modifier on that one for sure. Which oil are you using? And are you going to drive the car on ramps, or use jacks to lift it and then ramps or jack stands under the front wheels? Thx.
I got the Ford DCT for my MT-82-D4, it shifts fine so I will stay with Ford. Got RedLine 75W-85 for the Torsen (would have bought Ford but they were out). May change it this weekend if the weather is good. Also got a Slippery Pete fluid pump to fill the trans and diff.
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