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Durability of gt350 half shafts?

brucelinc

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It might be just the cold pavement this time of year but I am not getting any wheel hop since installing the driver's side GT350 axle. Before, it would hop on the 1-2 shift in drag mode. Now, it breaks the tires loose but the wheelspin is smooth and steady. I wonder if the heavier axle could have anything to do with that.
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armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT

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It might be just the cold pavement this time of year but I am not getting any wheel hop since installing the driver's side GT350 axle. Before, it would hop on the 1-2 shift in drag mode. Now, it breaks the tires loose but the wheelspin is smooth and steady. I wonder if the heavier axle could have anything to do with that.

The extra weight of axle might help.


On my 2015, I did a number of suspension upgrades and I didn't have wheel hop on the street after that. But I still had it at the track with street tires. But on slicks I didn't have it period.
 

brucelinc

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The extra weight of axle might help.


On my 2015, I did a number of suspension upgrades and I didn't have wheel hop on the street after that. But I still had it at the track with street tires. But on slicks I didn't have it period.
Yeah, my experience was similar although I still had a bit of hop on the street. There is a pretty significant difference in weight between the driver's and passenger side axles with the 350 shaft on the driver's side. I thought maybe the unequal weight might reduce the hop. It is probably just because the pavement is cold and it will spin street tires so easily.
 

poncho@home

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My understanding is the different weights helps eliminate the hop, harmonics and stuff.
 

ChiTownStang26

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Can you reuse the axle nut or do you need to buy a new one?
 

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ctandc72

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Just bought a set of GT350 axles for my FBO 3.7. The plan is go FI in the near future. Figured I'd replace them (price really can't be beat) when I drop the 3.55 pumpkin and drop it off to get the 3.73's installed, since the old ones have to come out anyway. I'm dropping the transmission and ditching the dual mass flywheel anyway so mine as well do it all at the same time since exhaust and driveshaft need to come out.

While I can't comment on wheel hop at the track - I run Steeda braces and bias ply tires (MT82) - the Steeda braces pretty much eliminated wheel hop on the BFG 275/40/19 tires on the street. It's just a 3.7, but it wheel hopped bad before the braces. Now it just spins 'em.
 

ChiTownStang26

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@ctandc72

Ya when I had my v6 those steeda braces fixed my wheel hop all on their own. Now I cant seem to get this gt to stop hopping, even in the rain!
 

gimmie11s

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Some great info on this thread. Saved me from spending $1000+ on axles.

I plan to buy 1 gt350 axle for my driver side on my 2018 auto car.

Havent broken one yet, but with 900+ hp, its a matter of time.
 

SJulian10mm

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@ctandc72

Ya when I had my v6 those steeda braces fixed my wheel hop all on their own. Now I cant seem to get this gt to stop hopping, even in the rain!
You have to go full hard mount or very close to it. Lower control arm and toe link bearings are the 2 items a lot of people skip...mainly because you have to completely remove your rear lower arms and rear knuckles to have the stock rubber bushings pressed out and the bearings pressed in. Bottom line, you will never get rid of all the hop without doing those among other things such as vertical links, camber arms, locking down the sub frame to the car and the diff to the sub frame. There is a rubber bushing at every one of those junctions which all contribute to the hop.
 

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Anybody with boost break a gt350 half shaft? I'm making over 700hp and around 590-600lbs of tq on a good day lol. I can't see myself paying damn near 2 grand for some halfshafts. I don't track the car but I want to put a good tire on the car, so I can at least feel what second gear feels like without breaking anything.
 

OF5.0

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You have to go full hard mount or very close to it. Lower control arm and toe link bearings are the 2 items a lot of people skip...mainly because you have to completely remove your rear lower arms and rear knuckles to have the stock rubber bushings pressed out and the bearings pressed in. Bottom line, you will never get rid of all the hop without doing those among other things such as vertical links, camber arms, locking down the sub frame to the car and the diff to the sub frame. There is a rubber bushing at every one of those junctions which all contribute to the hop.
You do NOT have to remove the rear knuckle to replace the knuckle to toe link rubber bushing with a bearing. The Ford Performance instructions show the use of a ball joint press (C-clamp style) to remove the bushing and to replace with a bearing. It saves a lot of time.
 

SJulian10mm

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You do NOT have to remove the rear knuckle to replace the knuckle to toe link rubber bushing with a bearing. The Ford Performance instructions show the use of a ball joint press (C-clamp style) to remove the bushing and to replace with a bearing. It saves a lot of time.
True, but if you're doing the rear lower control arm bearings you have to remove the knuckles anyway, at that point you might as well do the toe bearings on a press.
 

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@ctandc72

Ya when I had my v6 those steeda braces fixed my wheel hop all on their own. Now I cant seem to get this gt to stop hopping, even in the rain!
Tires, tires, tires. Many AS tires have absolutely terrible hop regardless of mods.
 

96gt4.6

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So far so good with the drivers only 350 shaft here. Dyno'd 643 rwhp, ran into the 11s at the track, but I previously only had a 255 Nitto so I had to limit power in 1st gear, with a best 60'of 1.89. I now have 305's and am going to turn up the power in 1st and see if I can get into the 10's, and 1.6-7 60'. I feel pretty confident the 350 axle will suffice, but we shall see.
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