Durability of gt350 half shafts?

[Stonehauler]

Without doing a complete tear down and examination, it would be very difficult to say they are the same or not. With the same part number, we could be sure, but it isn't. It could be a big different, or one so small as to be no real difference at all.

It might be a different alloy for the shaft, different strength connector in the joint, heck, it could be the boot is a slightly different material or has a different clamp or the clamp is put on the opposite way

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[brucelinc]

If they are the same diameter and same weight, I doubt if the 350 shaft is any better. Every broken stock halfshaft I have seen is where they taper down smaller at the CV joints. The shaft on manual 2018s are the same diameter all the way. Here is the typical breakage of a stock (pre 2018) unit on a manual.

 

[Zed09]

I re-installed the stock one. As far as I can tell they are identical with the exception of the part number. Even the part numbers stamped on the CV joints are the same between the two.

 

[brucelinc]

Too bad you had to go to the trouble for nothing but you have provided good information. The 350 shaft is an upgrade for pre 2018 manuals and all S550 automatics. The vendors who sell the 350 shafts as an upgrade for regular GTs should specify this.

 

[96gt4.6]

I would agree, certainly seems like a very good, budget friendly upgrade for the '15-17's and Auto equipped '18+. Swapped mine out recently:

 

[brucelinc]

96GT4.6, did you also change the right side?

 

[96gt4.6]

I did not. My basis for not doing it was even though the GT350 carries a different part number, the consensus here and abroad seems to be that the only one that fails is the driver side GT axle, and the fact that i'm only running the Stage 1 750HP Whipple kit, with an insufficient tire for this power level (255 Nitto), so I'm also having to limit power in 1st and part of 2nd as well. That driver side though, certainly seems like a great budget upgrade!

 

[brucelinc]

I agree the driver's side upgrade is significant. I am very glad that I changed mine. I am not going to mess with the passenger side, either.

 

[poncho@home]

How difficult an install in a home garage on jack stands? I got the GT350 kit and would like to install them in the coming weeks, but since I also have a bunch of other things to do, I'd rather do them at home instead paying to get done. Other parts to install: H-Pipe, shifter bracket, BMW TCA048+CB762 so I will have car raised on stands for these things.

 

[96gt4.6]

Both sides, i'd say a couple of hours tops. They are actually pretty easy to get out, do not follow the OEM instructions to remove the CV, it will have you remove the entire knuckle, which is not necessary.

 

[brucelinc]

I did remove the entire knuckle on mine. It took a little longer. The job requires no particular skill. I was mostly worried about prying the old axle out but that was not difficult. I used 2 pry bars on opposite sides and it popped right out. It did take a pretty healthy shove to get the new one engaged.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

Just plan on it not coming out easily. When I did my 15, the driver's side would not come out. I finally dropped the diff and put a cv puller and slide hammer on it. Got it out and had to replace the axles seals. This is rare to happen, but it does happen.

 

[brucelinc]

Just plan on it not coming out easily. When I did my 15, the driver's side would not come out. I finally dropped the diff and put a cv puller and slide hammer on it. Got it out and had to replace the axles seals. This is rare to happen, but it does happen.

It was your experience that had me a bit worried when I did mine. Since I have only done my own, I am certainly no expert but I think the best way to pry the shaft out is equal pressure on opposite sides the shaft using 2 pry bars. Just prying or trying to force it from one spot could cause it to bind slightly. Instead of extreme steady force, mine came out with a quick sharp jerk on both pry bars at the same time.

I found getting the new axle in took a bit more force than getting the old one out.

 

[96gt4.6]

I would agree, in my experience over many years in a production environment, is that a quick sharp blow will cause the circlip to release rather easily. For this model, I simply used a medium length prybar with the end placed right on the inner CV housing at as straight of line as I could angle the bar in relation to the cv shaft itself. One light blow from a small sledge and it popped right out. Some fight more, but the best option in my experience is always a slide hammer with puller attachment, or proper use of a punch/prybar with hammer on the back side. Using a dual pry bar setup works equally as well as stated, although indeed it seems to be more effective with a quick, rapid application of force rather than increasing constant tension.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

It was your experience that had me a bit worried when I did mine. Since I have only done my own, I am certainly no expert but I think the best way to pry the shaft out is equal pressure on opposite sides the shaft using 2 pry bars. Just prying or trying to force it from one spot could cause it to bind slightly. Instead of extreme steady force, mine came out with a quick sharp jerk on both pry bars at the same time.

I found getting the new axle in took a bit more force than getting the old one out.

I got two of us under the car with pry bars. It wasn't having it lol. Crazy thing is the snap ring looked completely normal. Hopefully my 18 will be easier lol.

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