Drop in replacement high flow air filter. Are they really worth it ?

Maggneto

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I've been using K&N for over 30 years in all motorcycles and cars. If maintained properly you will never need to buy a replacement filter. I have the recharge kit and keep the OEM filter when cleaning and drying the K&N.

K&N filters will flow better than paper OEM throughout the lifetime of the filter. I went 80k miles in my Audi without ever cleaning the K&N and there was no noticeable loss in power or MPG. According to K&N, you should be able to get around 50k between cleaning in normal conditions, but the filter should be checked to determine the proper cleaning interval.

K&N are active filters meaning the dirt particles become a part of the filter media which increases filtration overtime up to a point when it needs to be cleaned. Also, the vibration of the air/engine cause the layers of cotton fibers to vibrate creating a barrier that traps particles. Most people think because they can see through the filter it allows more particles but that is actually false. David Vizard did a K&N presentation on how K&N work. Here is a vid of Andy telling the K&N story in case you are interested in the history and functionality.

There are many K&N copies that will work fine but I refer the OG>





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Rapid Red

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I've been using K&N for over 30 years in all motorcycles and cars. If maintained properly you will never need to buy a replacement filter. I have the recharge kit and keep the OEM filter when cleaning and drying the K&N.

K&N filters will flow better than paper OEM throughout the lifetime of the filter. I went 80k miles in my Audi without ever cleaning the K&N and there was no noticeable loss in power or MPG. According to K&N, you should be able to get around 50k between cleaning in normal conditions, but the filter should be checked to determine the proper cleaning interval.

K&N are active filters meaning the dirt particles become a part of the filter media which increases filtration overtime up to a point when it need to be cleaned. Also, the vibration of the air/engine cause the layers of cotton fibers to creates a barrier trapping particles. Most people think because they can see through the filter it allows more particles but that is actually false. David Vizard did a K&N presentation on how K&N work.

There are many K&N copies that will work fine but I refer the OG>

Here is a vid of Andy telling the K&N story in case you are interested in the history and functionality.


This is pretty much my story ... To add they are a 1 time buy, unless the user destroys the media pressure washing instead of rinsing it .

I' ve found Simple green works very well for cleaning, charge K&N oil .

Pop one of these filters in a stock air box/cleaner . User will feel a differance, the CIA adds more bang for the buck .
 
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cactus_kid

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Well, as I said, I believe I'm going to leave as is. I have learned quite a bit by asking.
 

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Trying to figure out if there is enough bump in hp/tq to justify chunking the factory filter now. Car has 6 k on the clock.
Idk if its enough bump but it did clean things alil under the hood. I do feel a ali more umph, but i paired it with an h pipe so maybe its just the added combo. Here are a couple pics to show some of the stock restrictions. Sounds tube comes off too.

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Rapid Red

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Trying to figure out if there is enough bump in hp/tq to justify chunking the factory filter now. Car has 6 k on the clock.

No need to rush, the K&N is the first thing I change on all cars, including the wife' s> Why do I do that, cause I have a history with them.

Run the paper, got some extra cash when time to change. Make a move over, real sure the cost of paper (repeat changes)and the drop in will equal out quickly.

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cactus_kid

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Love the engine. Whose hi rise is that ?
 
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cactus_kid

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None2Slow

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I went with air-raid, which is a k&n company because it was on clearance at summit racing for $140 retails for $360. if you change your filter often, then its worth getting. otherwise probably not really worth the expense.
 

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