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Dragy 60-130

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MROCGUY

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As far as tuning goes, is it possible that the tuner optimized the low end (0-60, 1/4 mile) and not the top end?
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GregO

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i started from a stop, normal driving mode and wot all the way.

any idea why it's struggling? i was on the E85R tune also.
How many miles are on the car ?
Have you performed a compression test ?
Are all the wheel hub and bearings in perfect condition ?
Have you had the alignment verified ?
Have you checked to make sure a brake caliper isn’t hanging up causing some added drag ?
What Air Box are you using ?

I’m with K4fxd, don’t over rev the Gen2 manifold. Short shifting will decrease your point A to point B time whereas over reving will increase the time.
 
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How many miles are on the car ?
Have you performed a compression test ?
Are all the wheel hub and bearings in perfect condition ?
Have you had the alignment verified ?
Have you checked to make sure a brake caliper isn’t hanging up causing some added drag ?
What Air Box are you using ?
-80k
-No
-Car has seen a few multi-point inspections and no indicators of hub or bearing failures
-car runs straight, doesn't pull to one side or the other
-haven't checked the calipers
-stock air box
 

GregO

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-80k
-No
-Car has seen a few multi-point inspections and no indicators of hub or bearing failures
-car runs straight, doesn't pull to one side or the other
-haven't checked the calipers
-stock air box
Do a compression test.
Take some time and get the car off the ground and roll the wheels by hand checking for resistance. Check the driveshaft and axle shafts for play and any binding. The 2015-17 axle shafts joints are known to bind and pop, my needed replacement at 45,000 miles.
Alignment you should be near 0 toe. I see you’re running 10”F x 11”R wide. Too much toe scrubs speed.

You’ve entered a game of speed vs. metrics with the Dragy. Get all your friction possibilities sorted out and a cylinder compression health report before focusing solely on tune related.
 
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As far as tuning goes, is it possible that the tuner optimized the low end (0-60, 1/4 mile) and not the top end?
The problem is that no tuner can fix the crap Gen 2 Intake Manifold it has an issue in the higher RPM's as someone already pointed out. You will make more power if you switch to 2018+ or GT350 IM.
 

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The problem is that no tuner can fix the crap Gen 2 Intake Manifold it has an issue in the higher RPM's as someone already pointed out. You will make more power if you switch to 2018+ or GT350 IM.
More power and with the GT350 manifold a flat power peak well past 8K rpm’s so no power loss on long shifts.
I’m a fan of the GT350 manifold on the 15-17 Gen2’s.
 
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The problem is that no tuner can fix the crap Gen 2 Intake Manifold it has an issue in the higher RPM's as someone already pointed out. You will make more power if you switch to 2018+ or GT350 IM.
I had the Ford performance power pack 2 installed (GT350 throttle body and cai) and was in the middle to near end of datalogging when the tuner said the GT350 throttle body was more trouble than its worth, so i switched back to the stock throttle body and air intake and started from scratch..

question is...can anyone tune for a 2018+ IM and Power Pack 2 combo or would a GT350 IM be better and more matched to what i have sitting in a box (gt350 tb & cai)?
 

GregO

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I had the Ford performance power pack 2 installed (GT350 throttle body and cai) and was in the middle to near end of datalogging when the tuner said the GT350 throttle body was more trouble than its worth, so i switched back to the stock throttle body and air intake and started from scratch..

question is...can anyone tune for a 2018+ IM and Power Pack 2 combo or would a GT350 IM be better and more matched to what i have sitting in a box (gt350 tb & cai)?
GT350 manifold all day everyday on the Gen2 with PMAS but the GT350 open CAI works well being you already have that. The bigger TB is no problem to tune for Wengerd Perf.
The 18 manifold inlet diameter is a restriction when moving into the larger TB’s
 
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Get the GT350 manifold, use the PP2 TB and CAI and find a real tuner, I think one was mentioned.
 

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More power and with the GT350 manifold a flat power peak well past 8K rpm’s so no power loss on long shifts.
I’m a fan of the GT350 manifold on the 15-17 Gen2’s.
Yeah recently I installed Power Pack 3 and I'm really happy with the results. Car much faster.
 
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Get the GT350 manifold, use the PP2 TB and CAI and find a real tuner, I think one was mentioned.
sounds like a plan
 

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Lots of gen 2s in the low 9s with no cams and lots in 8s with cams or weight reduction.

Seen a few go deep into the 7s.
N/A Gen 2 Coyotes 60-130 deep into the 7s? No way. I looked at the Dragy app history and every single 2015-2017 GT in the 8s and 7s were supercharged.
 

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I think you’re getting some iffy info so far. Compression test for a car that’s running about where it should? Gimme a break. With E85 and not much else mid 12s is about what I would expect. 2015-2017 GTs stock are 13s-14s. And your 120-130 mph split of 2.84 sec isn’t indicative of something totally awry. The 2018 GT A10 that Car and Driver tested went 120-130 mph in 2.7 seconds.

Please spend 10 mins looking at the Dragy app history, sort by year (2015-2017) and search “Mustang GT” and you’ll see where you land. About normal for a couple of basic mods.
 

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I think you’re getting some iffy info so far. Compression test for a car that’s running about where it should? Gimme a break. With E85 and not much else mid 12s is about what I would expect. 2015-2017 GTs stock are 13s-14s. And your 120-130 mph split of 2.84 sec isn’t indicative of something totally awry. The 2018 GT A10 that Car and Driver tested went 120-130 mph in 2.7 seconds.

Please spend 10 mins looking at the Dragy app history, sort by year (2015-2017) and search “Mustang GT” and you’ll see where you land. About normal for a couple of basic mods.
Spot on

Car is running where it should. Continue to enjoy it as is, or slowly build it as youre doing, OP, and monitor/document progress.

Or get serious and add boost :)
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