Don’t use Royal purple (gen3 coyote)

[EmCel]

Tick tick boom the coyote will still zoom

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[Toretto]

BBQ tick is definitely a strange phenomenon....had it after the first two oil changes (last about 2 weeks), but after my latest oil change last month it never came back (all 3 oil changes were done at Ford dealership using their Synthetic oil)

 

[JohnnyGT]

I'm still not even sure WTH the "BBQ tick" is. The only time i heard any kind of ticking was when i was running e85 during a cold start up in a basement garage. Then it went away after warming up and the revs lowered. Chalked it up to the DI pump or injectors.

Not that it matters at all anymore, because clearly the oil doesn't matter. Mine has been running on BG for the last 30k miles. For what ever the fuck you all want to make of that.

 

[ice445]

Mine only ticks once in a while. Usually when it's not fully warmed up but almost there, then it goes away. But I'm also one of those weird people who change their oil every 3000 miles, so maybe that's helping me.

 

[GT Pony]

I think we've established that brand has zero impact on the tick.

Sounds like oil brand does have an effect for some that posted in this thread. They use one brand of oil and it ticks, then switch to a diffefent brand and the tick goes away. It's just not a 100% consistant phenomenon between cars when switching oil brands.

 

[GT Pony]

I'm still not even sure WTH the "BBQ tick" is.

Not that it matters at all anymore, because clearly the oil doesn't matter.

I think it's related to the friction level of the oil, and the effect of new oil on the existing anti-friction tribofilm left by the previous oil run. That's why the tick can show up right after an oil change, due to the anti-friction tribofilm being effected by the new oil. Some ticking Coyotes seem to be sensitive to the friction level between moving parts - possibly from tolorance stack-up, so some Coyotes tick and others don't. Been some discussions on bobistheoilguy about anti-friction tribofilms and how they are built-up and sripped away, and the effect on the friction. Oil and lubrication (tribology) really can become complicated.

I think that's why some guys find that the tick goes away with using certain oil vs others (all oils are not really the same). And when a small amount of Ceratec (a friction modifier) is added to the oil the tick goes away almost immediately because the friction level was reduced quickly. When the tick goes away like a switch was flipped, even with as little as 100 mL in 10 qts of oil, it tells you that Ceratec had a direct effect.

 

[Paul's Pony]

From my first oil change at 1500 miles, I've used PUP 5w30 and Ceratec. Never have heard a single tick. It's a winning combination.

 

[jmorris47]

My tick was dependent on the oil level. Half way on the dipstick (checked cold) gave me the tick. That's right where it would be, using two 5 qt jugs, after a new filter + prefilling filter and dumping the remaining oil in the fill cap.

If I poured a little bit more in to get it about 3/4th of the way on the dipstick (checked cold) the tick would go away and stay away. I always knew I had burned a little bit of oil if I heard the tick when pulling into my garage.

It didn't matter what oil I used. Pennzoil platinum, motorcraft, valvoline... 5w20 initially and then 5w30 for the rest of its life.

I am in the same situation. As long as my oil level is "topped off", no tick. I use what Roush recommends, Motorcraft 5-50 full synthetic. I am at about 33,000 miles.

 

[Blu_stallion]

that’s insane … mine happened immediately after I put royal purple in it, the next day went back to Walmart got mobile 1 and it went away. Also if you do your own oil I recommend only going to Walmart lol I know sounds weird but autozone and advanced sells mobile 1 for 39-40$ a jug…. Walmart 29.99 for a 5 qt jug

Agreed, I buy my oil at Walmart, they seem to always have the best pricing on oil and filters. Btw I use Motorcraft full synthetic 5W-30 and so far no tick as of 12,500 miles (knock on wood). My F150 gen3 Coyote with 37K miles has a very slight amount of tick, nothing terrible though. Same oil used on both, these Coyotes are strange in this regard..

 

[Qcman17]

I just put a flea and tick collar around my intake tube and problem solved.......

 

[Vertex]

One thing that I would have double checked to make 100% sure is you got the correct oil. I do not mean weight etc though. I know when I got oil for my bike once they sold me the wrong kind, I did not notice cause it was not made for my bike ran it through a cycle and luckily had no issues with my bike. I'm curious if maybe you got the incorrect type? Otherwise it's just something that I've read tons of complaints on. Still have had 0 issues with mine like I mentioned before and have been running RP since about 4-4500 miles on my Mach 1.

 

[GregO]

Mobil 1 Delvac ESP 5W-40
API Dual rated
I know a hand full of guys that switched to this in their F-150 EcoBoost. Night and day difference in the audible engine sounds.
If not a fan of Mobil then Castrol Euro 0W-40 or 5W-40 but 0W-40 has higher percentage of PAO base stock.

 

[Linkster1666]

I got your oil right here!

 

[Cobra Jet]

I'm still not even sure WTH the "BBQ tick" is. The only time i heard any kind of ticking was when i was running e85 during a cold start up in a basement garage. Then it went away after warming up and the revs lowered. Chalked it up to the DI pump or injectors.

Not that it matters at all anymore, because clearly the oil doesn't matter. Mine has been running on BG for the last 30k miles. For what ever the fuck you all want to make of that.

I think it's related to the friction level of the oil, and the effect of new oil on the existing anti-friction tribofilm left by the previous oil run. That's why the tick can show up right after an oil change, due to the anti-friction tribofilm being effected by the new oil. Some ticking Coyotes seem to be sensitive to the friction level between moving parts - possibly from tolorance stack-up, so some Coyotes tick and others don't. Been some discussions on bobistheoilguy about anti-friction tribofilms and how they are built-up and sripped away, and the effect on the friction. Oil and lubrication (tribology) really can become complicated.

I think that's why some guys find that the tick goes away with using certain oil vs others (all oils are not really the same). And when a small amount of Ceratec (a friction modifier) is added to the oil the tick goes away almost immediately because the friction level was reduced quickly. When the tick goes away like a switch was flipped, even with as little as 100 mL in 10 qts of oil, it tells you that Ceratec had a direct effect.

I’m going to say that aside from the “DI assumption” that always creeps up in the BBQ tick threads it is not the only mechanics that can be creating the sound.

I think everyone who’s new to a Coyote (OR any if it’s variants) are not familiar with the Twin independent Variable Cam Timing (Ti-VCT) system. The L & R VCTs are totally mechanical in every sense of the word and sit right behind the front cover. The VCT system will make “tick like” noises and depending on oil type and viscosity used, the tick variable can increase or decrease in sound level when cold, hot or even with new vs old oil. Adding any “additive” will also affect the VCT system too, so again a tick sound may be amplified or deadened by the additive used. The timing cover itself will amplify the noises coming from behind it.

The Gen 1 Coyote has been in the Mustang since what, 2011? If one were to go onto any Mustang forum, the “tick” isn’t new, it’s been around since that time period and not much has changed with the Ti-VCT system over the years.


Aside from the Ti-VCT system making noise, the tick could also be coming from the DOHC (dual overhead cam) heads. The Coyote has gone through several design changes over the years where cams, cam followers, rockers, materials used, etc. all play a roll in “noises” from an engine. Thin or plastic valve covers will amplify the underlying mechanical sounds of DOHC heads. On the older Ford DOHCs and even the original 86-95 5.0 H.O,. the valve covers were very thick metal (aluminum or steel depending on model year) and in some instances, the underside of the valve cover was also coated to absorb and retain valve train noises. Today, cost savings is a big factor with vehicle manufacturers so less material used in such things as valve covers, timing covers, etc. and using plastic/composite intakes as opposed to iron/aluminum/pot metal intakes = more under hood noise.

The modern Coyote 5.0 isn’t the simplistic 289/5.0 H.O.’s of the 60’s-90’s where it’s a single chain or double roller timing chain system with a single integral cam…. The Coyote is a very complex and integrated engine with dual VCT system and DOHC heads - it has MANY more moving internal parts and there’s going to be more mechanical noises coming from it.

The problem I see is that the YouTube doofuses and inept Social Media fools have manifested and exaggerated the Coyote “tick” beyond the true mechanics behind the operation of the Coyote‘s internal design.

The BBQ tick needs to be squashed already…

 

[GT Pony]

^^^ Expect all the mechanisms you're talking about are located on the top end or front end (valve train and cam-chains, Ti-VCT system), and Ford says in their SSM 49761 that the noise is "typically heard at the front wheel well and is often isolated to the transmission bell housing or oil pan area". The BBQ tick is much more pronouced under the engine (as the SSM describes) than from the top end or front end of the engine.

That tells me it's in the bottom end (rod big ends, crank assembly) ... and that's why before Ford put out SSM 49761 they were replacing shot blocks under warranty when a BBQ ticking Coyote came into the dealerships.

Even back in 2011-2012 when the Coyote BBQ initially become a thing, per old board threads the Ford field Techs were putting Motorcraft XL-17 (an oil friction modifier) in the oil to make the ticking go away, similar to what Ceratec does for the ticking. Motorcraft XL-17 is no longer available today.

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