DIY: Make your shaker pro sound better for ~$30

Discussion in 'DIY' started by Nitro, Jul 8, 2015.

  1. Nitro

    Nitro Well-Known Member

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    Warning: I am not responsible if you blow your subwoofer! Be careful.

    I wanted a way to better balance my subwoofer with the rest of the system. I decided to wire in a line level amplifier. I am very happy with the results. It wont make your mids or highs sound better, but the bass will be much more balanced with the system. I have been using this mod for 3 weeks now and I like it a lot better than the stock settings. There is 1 side effect though, when you open the trunk you can hear noise coming out of the subwoofer. After this mod that noise will be louder and much more noticeable. To me, the tradeoff is worth it.

    Things you will need:
    A PAC LD-10 line level amplifier
    Some composite audio (RCA) cables that you wont mind cutting in half
    socket wrench
    13mm socket
    5mm hex key (or proper torx bit)
    T15 torx bit
    extra wire
    wire cutter
    soldering iron
    solder
    electrical tape

    Optional:
    5-10oz of polyfill
    8mm socket with extension


    Steps:

    1. Remove the 3 T15 screws from the bottom of the enclosure.

    [​IMG]

    2. There is a big torx bolt on the enclosure. I didn't have a torx bit that big, but I was able to loosen it with a 5mm hex key. Remove the 2 13mm bolts at the bottom of the enclosure.

    [​IMG]

    3. Pull the subwoofer out and disconnect the wiring harness connected to the sub amp. Remove the sub and put it off to the side.

    [​IMG]

    4. Re-route sub-woofer harness to get as much access to it as you can. Carefully cut back the loom around to gain access to the individual wires.

    [​IMG]

    5. It isn't necessary, but you will probably want to cut some wires to extend the wires we will be splicing. I wish I would have made my wires longer, so you might want to use about twice as much wire as me.

    [​IMG]

    6. You will be splicing into 12v (Grey/red) and Ground (Black/green). I used red and black for these. You will be cutting the line level wires in half and extending these from both ends. These are Purple/green and Green/white. I used blue(I don't own purple wire) and green wires for these.

    When connecting all the wires, you will want to use solder. This will give the best and cleanest looking connections. My wires look like this after extending. Sorry about the poor lighting.

    [​IMG]

    7. Wrap all the wires splices with electrical tape and then wrap all the wires together to clean them up a bit.

    [​IMG]

    8. You will need 1/2 of a composite audio cable. I split mine lengthwise to single out just the red connectors. I then cut this cable in half and stripped the wires out. A composite cable will have a wire in the center and a wire wrapped around it. Single out these 2 wires on each of the 2 ends of the composite wire.

    [​IMG]

    9. Now take one of the composite cables and wire one wire to the green and the other to the purple (mine is now blue). It doesn't matter which wire you use from the cable, just be sure to match the colors on each side of the split harness. You basically want 1 composite cable coming out of the car side of the harness and 1 composite cable coming out of the clip side of the cable. Again, be sure you match the colors. You should either have both green wires connected to the inner cable on the composite cable or both purple wires connected to the inner cable. It doesn't matter, just make sure they are the same. Also connect the red cable of the LD-10 to the spliced red cable and connect the black cable of the LD-10 to the black spliced cable.

    [​IMG]

    10. Now, tape everything up. Connect both ends of the composite cables to the oposite ends of the same channel on the LD-10. I connected both of my cables to just the right channel. The other channel will go completely un-used. Sorry about the bad lighting again.

    [​IMG]

    The following steps are optional. Stuffing the sub with polyfill only yields minor improvements. If you do not care to do these steps, skip to step 13.

    11. To pull the speaker out you will need to remove a screw from the back of the sub with an 8mm socket and extension. Then use a T15 to remove the screws from around the front of the sub.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    12. Fill the box up with polyfill and then put everything back together.

    [​IMG]

    13. Before turning everything on to test it, be sure to adjust the channel on the LD-10 all the way down (counter-clockwise). Now turn everything on, choose a song with some bass, and adjust the channel to your liking. Be sure to close the trunk lid when listening.

    14. Put everything back together and you are done!

    If your sub doesn't turn on, go check fuse #5 in the passenger footwell. I ended up blowing this fuse while I was testing wires.

    If you have any questions, let me know.
     
  2. assclown

    assclown Warchief

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    This is great, thank you!

    Essentially an in-line, line level booster, correct?
     
  3. OP
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    Nitro

    Nitro Well-Known Member

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    Thats exactly what it is.
     
  4. assclown

    assclown Warchief

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    Do you know what the voltage of the signal was prior going into the amp, vs. now?

    I know some amps (aftermarket) have a line voltage max input, not sure how or if the line driver may affect the amp in the long run if the sensitivity is too high?
     
  5. OP
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    Nitro

    Nitro Well-Known Member

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    I don't have an oscilliscope, so I'm not sure what the actual voltage was. I didn't boost the signal by a whole lot, and I'm not driving the amp so hard that it clips, so it shouldn't lower the life of the amp.

    I'm sure somebody is going to do this mod and and turn everything up too much and everything will blow up. That is why I put the warning at the beginning of the instructions.
     
  6. RevvdMedia

    RevvdMedia Well-Known Member

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    This is pretty much the same effect I achieved when I wired in my 7 band EQ to my factory amp on the full range speakers - it also has a line driver function. I can't scientifically prove that it worked, but pulling a lower volume signal from the head unit, giving it a slight boost, in theory ends up with a cleaner signal pre-amp...
     
  7. 5OSONIC

    5OSONIC Well-Known Member

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    [MENTION=8384]Nitro[/MENTION] so is this still working pretty well?
     
  8. OP
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    Nitro

    Nitro Well-Known Member

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    Yeah. I am 100% glad that I did this! Sounds so much better once you fine tune the audio settings.
     
  9. Brian V

    Brian V USA Retired

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    Cool Mod ....and Easy if ya know wiring and audio .....
     
  10. Ap8823

    Ap8823 Well-Known Member

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    So it's basically evening out everything? Can you make the sub louder doing this or is it just to even everything out? Does it give a better thump and low end bass? Thanks!
     
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  11. 2blackstangs

    2blackstangs Member

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    What gauge wire did you need to use for the extensions?
     
  12. OP
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    Nitro

    Nitro Well-Known Member

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    It doesn't make the max volume any louder. The sub sounds the same, it is just better balanced with the rest of the system.
     
  13. OP
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    Nitro

    Nitro Well-Known Member

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    20 gauge. It doesn't take much to power the little box.
     
  14. terryj

    terryj Well-Known Member

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    How much polyfill did you use? I think I'm just going to put polyfill in mine and see how it sounds.
     
  15. OP
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    Nitro

    Nitro Well-Known Member

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    I don't remember. It was just 1 bag from the hobby store.
     
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