DIY Improvement for the FP Hood Strut Kit (M-16826-MA)

[SH!FT]

Ford Performance Hood Lift Kit is great with a little modification.

Here’s my fix for flimsy fender strut brackets and wiper fluid hose pinch point:

Brackets are now solid on the fenders and the wiper fluid hose is out of the way.


How-to:

Beefier retainer nut:

I milled a piece of steel all-thread rod into two 1.00” x 0.56” x 0.20” blocks then added M8 x 1.25 threaded center holes. These replace the provided ~0.9” x 0.56” x ~0.07” retainers.


Adding fender brackets studs:
NOTE: Bracket center hole locations are based on the stud screw size used.
#8-18 x ½” hex self-drilling screws: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/imperial-stove-pipe-screws-hex-12-piece
Major Thread Dia: 0.16”
Minor Thread Dia: 0.13”
Washer Head Dia: 0.34”

My 0,0 is the “front inner corner” of each bracket. The x,y values are the center hole locations. The #8 screws slip through the 0.166” holes.
This is doable by hand if you’re careful. The goal is for A > B.
My minor diameter ‘B’ distance is 0.52”. The major is 0.49”. ‘A’ is 0.56”. This insures that the new retainer nut won’t fit between the stud screws and stays fairly perpendicular to the fender slot once installed.


Modified fender bracket Install:

0. Corrected the damage caused by the original install.
1. Placed the bracket against the outer pocket wall and slid it down towards the headlight until even with the top edge of the fender slot.
2. Used the 0.166” holes to add pilot holes in the fender with a #2 center drill.
3. Added an edge break to one end of the new retainer nut and Loctite to the threads before loosely assembling.
4. Dropped the retainer into the fender slot and aligned the retainer perpendicular to the slot.
5. Used the stamp marking on the M8 bolt head to maintain retainer nut alinement while securing the #8 stud screws hand tight.
6. Pulled up on the M8 bolt and snugged it to the top lock washer while the stud screws held the retainer and bracket in place.
7. Torqued the M8 bolt.


Wiper fluid hose relocation:

1. Removed the 3 clips to peel back passenger side of the hood insulation panel.
2. Popped the 2 wiper fluid hose clips off the hood and hose.
3. Added a tie wrap sticky mount which moves the pinch point into the hood recess, but still allows that foam block to properly protect and prevent rattling.
4. Any created hose slack from the move was fed back towards the wiper fluid reservoir before reinstalling the bottom hose clip on the hose and hood. Red markings show where the removed upper hose clip was located.
5. Cut a new notch in the insulation. The blade must be razor sharp. The cut must be completed in a single pass or big mess.
6. Trick is to seal the new cut with wood glue. Used fingernail to apply. Insulation wants to fray and stick to must other things.
7. Color matched the cut with Sharpie once glue is set.
8. Re-secured the insulation panel.

Why do this??
This hood strut kit had a high risk for failure and possible injury with just that single fender mounting bolt. The S550 hood becomes a heavyweight due to the chosen strut mounting points being so close to the hinges.

There’s high probability that the provided retainer nut and serrated washer will shift inside fender during the torque process. If you watch the CJ Pony install video closely, you’ll see Bill have this issue on the driver side fender bracket install. The provided retainer nut bypassed the small stud pin.

Retainer nut alignment is easy with the fender bracket only hand tight. I found that a 12mm wrench helped reduce the bracket from shifting during the torque process, but everything still moves scuffing the paint.

I’m a stickler for symmetry so it took couple tries to hit 20 ft-lbs with both fender brackets square and the hood opening height equal.

A good test before the first hood close is lightly push up and pull down on the fully open hood. See what flexes. It should be the entire fender pocket. Zero bracket rocking or rotation.

My brackets flexed… Here’s the result after the first hood close:

I opened the hood to find both fender brackets twisted and slightly lifted towards the headlights. I assessed the damage and slightly lost my sh!t before taking the struts assemblies to the workshop.


Cause of failure:
The 0.07” thick provided retainer nut will flex as it is tighten causing the M8 threads in the nut to deform and bind on the bolt. If the threads bind enough to overcome the holding strength of serrated washer before the torque spec is reached, the retainer will spin and shift. I might have had better luck with lubed threads.

Install links:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/media/images/install-pdf/install_m16826ma.pdf

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[Firsttexan]

You nailed the issue and the fix. You had to see this question coming, how much for a set of those blocks?

 

[Cobra Jet]

Excellent DIY improvement on both the hardware and the washer hose relocation.

You should send your hardware “fix” to Ford Performance, maybe they’ll fix their hood strut package so it’s that much better.

You’ve also created a little niche side business for yourself, because there’s probably many who have experienced the same issues with the hood strut kit (and possibly other kits). Not everyone has the tools or capability to do what you did, but if you could offer up an improvement kit to others, there’s some $$$ for your skills.

As far as the marring of paint - can’t one use like a thin piece of felt or foam tape square on the backside of the mounting brackets? By doing so it would not only prevent any metal to metal contact, but it may also help to “adhere” the bracket to the metal so it won’t have that ability to twist or move under initial installation or during hood operation.

 

[SH!FT]

You nailed the issue and the fix. You had to see this question coming, how much for a set of those blocks?

Excellent DIY improvement on both the hardware and the washer hose relocation.

Thanks guys!

I’m happy to help, but I’m not set up to supply. Cutting hard material is slow going and puts a beating on my small benchtop machines.

For anyone interested:

Option #1:
Take the print below and reach out to any local machine shop. Low carbon steel with dimensional tolerance of +/- 0.02” should be fine. Tool steel would be ideal. Ordering only 2 may not be cost effective. Feel free to make a bunch and sell the remainder.

Option #2:
It may be possible to combine components from the Roush kit and FP kit. The FP kit adopting Roush’s fender bracket design would likely be the ultimate no drill kit.
MUST FIRST confirm that the ball and socket dimensions are the same for both kits.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/roush-h...-2017-ecoboost-gt-mustang-2015-2022/p/422043/

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...-mustang-v6-ecoboost-gt-2015-2021/p/M16826MA/



Option #3:
How to DIY the improved retainers without precision tools:

1. Get a $4 piece of 3/16" thick by 1" wide steel bar stock. https://www.mcmaster.com/8910K264-8910K601/
2. Rough cut two 9/16” length blocks from the bar stock. Increase your accuracy by finishing with grinder/file. Don’t over heat the material.
3. Drill (17/64") and tap (M8 x 1.25) the center holes. Use cutting oil.
4. Hand grind/file the bevel and any sharp edges.

As far as the marring of paint - can’t one use like a thin piece of felt or foam tape square on the backside of the mounting brackets? By doing so it would not only prevent any metal to metal contact, but it may also help to “adhere” the bracket to the metal so it won’t have that ability to twist or move under initial installation or during hood operation.

Good call! I think anything like 3M double sided tape would help, but may not have the holding strength alone to withstand that torque spec. Even with the help of the 12 mm wrench, I found it difficult to keep the bracket in place during the OEM install.

I think it’s still best to add at least 1 of the #8 screw studs to each bracket in order to remove the serrated washer from the install. Removing that uneven serrated surface may stop the FP provided retainer from folding, but a stud screw and Loctite will then definitely be required to the hold the retainer in place during the install. When standing at the headlights of the car, the mandatory hex screw for tightening is on the right .

NOTE: The (x,y) location of the #8 screw(s) may need to be moved slight towards the center of the bracket to accommodate the shorter and rounded edges of the FP provided retainer nut.

 

[Jackismydog]

Perdon my ignrance as the car still stored for winter season so I don't have access. I've installed the FP Kit. Would like to know how to remove the strunts from those brackets in order to be able to do this mod?

 

[Doolin64]

Perdon my ignrance as the car still stored for winter season so I don't have access. I've installed the FP Kit. Would like to know how to remove the strunts from those brackets in order to be able to do this mod?

You'll see a small metal band that's part of the strut and snaps around the ball on the backside you use a flat head screwdriver and pry it back. It's really easy.

 

[Jackismydog]

Ah! I see !! Thanks John!!

 

[SH!FT]

Hi Francois
Let me know if you run into any issues or find further improvements during the modification process.

You'll see a small metal band that's part of the strut and snaps around the ball on the backside you use a flat head screwdriver and pry it back. It's really easy.

^^^This^^^

Best to have someone hold the your hood up while you remove them. They pop right out with no weight on them, but would be sketchy to do one-handed.

I was alone. My FP struts lift the hood quite a bit higher than the factory prop rod.

I used the prop rod for support, but found that unbolting the top strut bracket from the hood before attempting to disconnect the ball/socket joints was a safer method.

 

[Jackismydog]

Hi Francois
Let me know if you run into any issues or find further improvements during the modification process.



^^^This^^^

Best to have someone hold the your hood up while you remove them. They pop right out with no weight on them, but would be sketchy to do one-handed.

I was alone. My FP struts lift the hood quite a bit higher than the factory prop rod.

I used the prop rod for support, but found that unbolting the top strut bracket from the hood before attempting to disconnect the ball/socket joints was a safer method.

Thanks Mike for this extra explanation! 99% sure I'll be alone so was thinking to reinstall the prop rod. Will see if I unbolt the top strut braket!

 

[DrZed]

Ford Performance Hood Lift Kit is great with a little modification.

Here’s my fix for flimsy fender strut brackets and wiper fluid hose pinch point:

Brackets are now solid on the fenders and the wiper fluid hose is out of the way.


How-to:

Beefier retainer nut:

I milled a piece of steel all-thread rod into two 1.00” x 0.56” x 0.20” blocks then added M8 x 1.25 threaded center holes. These replace the provided ~0.9” x 0.56” x ~0.07” retainers.


Adding fender brackets studs:
NOTE: Bracket center hole locations are based on the stud screw size used.
#8-18 x ½” hex self-drilling screws: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/imperial-stove-pipe-screws-hex-12-piece
Major Thread Dia: 0.16”
Minor Thread Dia: 0.13”
Washer Head Dia: 0.34”

My 0,0 is the “front inner corner” of each bracket. The x,y values are the center hole locations. The #8 screws slip through the 0.166” holes.
This is doable by hand if you’re careful. The goal is for A > B.
My minor diameter ‘B’ distance is 0.52”. The major is 0.49”. ‘A’ is 0.56”. This insures that the new retainer nut won’t fit between the stud screws and stays fairly perpendicular to the fender slot once installed.


Modified fender bracket Install:

0. Corrected the damage caused by the original install.
1. Placed the bracket against the outer pocket wall and slid it down towards the headlight until even with the top edge of the fender slot.
2. Used the 0.166” holes to add pilot holes in the fender with a #2 center drill.
3. Added an edge break to one end of the new retainer nut and Loctite to the threads before loosely assembling.
4. Dropped the retainer into the fender slot and aligned the retainer perpendicular to the slot.
5. Used the stamp marking on the M8 bolt head to maintain retainer nut alinement while securing the #8 stud screws hand tight.
6. Pulled up on the M8 bolt and snugged it to the top lock washer while the stud screws held the retainer and bracket in place.
7. Torqued the M8 bolt.


Wiper fluid hose relocation:

1. Removed the 3 clips to peel back passenger side of the hood insulation panel.
2. Popped the 2 wiper fluid hose clips off the hood and hose.
3. Added a tie wrap sticky mount which moves the pinch point into the hood recess, but still allows that foam block to properly protect and prevent rattling.
4. Any created hose slack from the move was fed back towards the wiper fluid reservoir before reinstalling the bottom hose clip on the hose and hood. Red markings show where the removed upper hose clip was located.
5. Cut a new notch in the insulation. The blade must be razor sharp. The cut must be completed in a single pass or big mess.
6. Trick is to seal the new cut with wood glue. Used fingernail to apply. Insulation wants to fray and stick to must other things.
7. Color matched the cut with Sharpie once glue is set.
8. Re-secured the insulation panel.

Why do this??
This hood strut kit had a high risk for failure and possible injury with just that single fender mounting bolt. The S550 hood becomes a heavyweight due to the chosen strut mounting points being so close to the hinges.

There’s high probability that the provided retainer nut and serrated washer will shift inside fender during the torque process. If you watch the CJ Pony install video closely, you’ll see Bill have this issue on the driver side fender bracket install. The provided retainer nut bypassed the small stud pin.

Retainer nut alignment is easy with the fender bracket only hand tight. I found that a 12mm wrench helped reduce the bracket from shifting during the torque process, but everything still moves scuffing the paint.

I’m a stickler for symmetry so it took couple tries to hit 20 ft-lbs with both fender brackets square and the hood opening height equal.

A good test before the first hood close is lightly push up and pull down on the fully open hood. See what flexes. It should be the entire fender pocket. Zero bracket rocking or rotation.

My brackets flexed… Here’s the result after the first hood close:

I opened the hood to find both fender brackets twisted and slightly lifted towards the headlights. I assessed the damage and slightly lost my sh!t before taking the struts assemblies to the workshop.


Cause of failure:
The 0.07” thick provided retainer nut will flex as it is tighten causing the M8 threads in the nut to deform and bind on the bolt. If the threads bind enough to overcome the holding strength of serrated washer before the torque spec is reached, the retainer will spin and shift. I might have had better luck with lubed threads.

Install links:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/media/images/install-pdf/install_m16826ma.pdf

You nailed it.

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