Gibbo205
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
HI there
Today I fitted the Eibach 15mm hubcentric rear spacer. After trial fitting 23mm spacers on the rear there was too much poke for my liking and I feel 20mm would also be poking too much. As such I decided to give 15mm a go, here is a link to the spacers I purchased:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eibach-15...stang-S90-6-15-056-2015-WP-237-/172100752240?
These spacers are the best design I have come across as they weigh less and are in my view safer, not only that there is no issue with torquing the nuts to the full 148lb/ft as stated in the hand book.
However fitting this type of spacer is not the usual five minute job, give yourself an hour per side and take your time.
DIY Guide!
1. Start by jacking the car and removing the wheel (21mm socket)
2. Remove brake caliper, this is hardest part as it is hard to get a big wrench/socket in the wheel well, so patience needed. (18mm socket)
3. Remove the splash guard, by undoing the three 8mm bolts
4. With it removed be sure to support the calipers weight, I used some bricks!
5. Now remove the old studs one at a time by hitting with a small metal hammer, no need to go insane, just moderate force hits will do it, also put a 14mm nut on the bolts and hit that bolt with the hammer to preserve the threads on the stock studs.
6. Once the stud is out, put the new longer stud in place, note you will only get the studs in and out between the 11-12o'clock position and they will go in with gentle tapping, if they are not just rotate the hub a couple of mm and they will just tap into place.
7. Hammer the stud a little into the wheel hub, again using light force just to get the stud started.
8. Then with a tool I made, old wheel nut with top taken off and a larger washing, thread this onto the stud until tight to pull stud all the way through and then remove the hand made tool.
9. New spacer and new studs show time!
10. Nearly done!
11. Comparison old and new studs, 15mm spacer, so 15mm longer studs.
12. Finished!
13. Notes use blue loctite on splash shield and caliper bolts, splash shield bolts are just nipped up, caliper bolts give them everything you got. Put wheel back on, tighten, let car down, torque wheels, go for drive, re-torque wheels!
Results!
Pictures speak volumes:
The results are perfect, exactly what I wanted, there is no poke and the wheels are as flush to the body work your going to get without having poke. Car now looks higher in the rear and no longer looks like the suspension is collapsing in on it self, really please with the results and I far prefer this type of spacer that just comes with longer studs.
Unfortunately Eibach 20mm and 25mm design seem to go back to the design of attaching to the hub using current studs and having new studs in place, it is perfectly safe but I far prefer the idea of there only being one set of bolts to tighten (wheel to hub) rather than two sets (spacer to hub, wheel to spacer).
Once the mud flaps arrive I shall install the front 23mm spacers I have!
Driving impressions!
Car has not changed in anyway, all I would say is the car has a touch more understeer and more grip in the rear, which is what you would expect when just widening the rear track by 30mm. This car as standard has slight understeer towards limits, now the understeer is a little more noticable. Once I fit the 23mm (46mm track widening) the cars balance should be a bit better than factory, with just very slight understeer, we shall see.
But for me these 15mm spacers give the perfect no poke look, they weigh less and are safer. A perfect fit for GT PP cars, only downside being they take longer to install.
Today I fitted the Eibach 15mm hubcentric rear spacer. After trial fitting 23mm spacers on the rear there was too much poke for my liking and I feel 20mm would also be poking too much. As such I decided to give 15mm a go, here is a link to the spacers I purchased:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eibach-15...stang-S90-6-15-056-2015-WP-237-/172100752240?
These spacers are the best design I have come across as they weigh less and are in my view safer, not only that there is no issue with torquing the nuts to the full 148lb/ft as stated in the hand book.
However fitting this type of spacer is not the usual five minute job, give yourself an hour per side and take your time.
DIY Guide!
1. Start by jacking the car and removing the wheel (21mm socket)
2. Remove brake caliper, this is hardest part as it is hard to get a big wrench/socket in the wheel well, so patience needed. (18mm socket)
3. Remove the splash guard, by undoing the three 8mm bolts
4. With it removed be sure to support the calipers weight, I used some bricks!
5. Now remove the old studs one at a time by hitting with a small metal hammer, no need to go insane, just moderate force hits will do it, also put a 14mm nut on the bolts and hit that bolt with the hammer to preserve the threads on the stock studs.
6. Once the stud is out, put the new longer stud in place, note you will only get the studs in and out between the 11-12o'clock position and they will go in with gentle tapping, if they are not just rotate the hub a couple of mm and they will just tap into place.
7. Hammer the stud a little into the wheel hub, again using light force just to get the stud started.
8. Then with a tool I made, old wheel nut with top taken off and a larger washing, thread this onto the stud until tight to pull stud all the way through and then remove the hand made tool.
9. New spacer and new studs show time!
10. Nearly done!
11. Comparison old and new studs, 15mm spacer, so 15mm longer studs.
12. Finished!
13. Notes use blue loctite on splash shield and caliper bolts, splash shield bolts are just nipped up, caliper bolts give them everything you got. Put wheel back on, tighten, let car down, torque wheels, go for drive, re-torque wheels!
Results!
Pictures speak volumes:
The results are perfect, exactly what I wanted, there is no poke and the wheels are as flush to the body work your going to get without having poke. Car now looks higher in the rear and no longer looks like the suspension is collapsing in on it self, really please with the results and I far prefer this type of spacer that just comes with longer studs.
Unfortunately Eibach 20mm and 25mm design seem to go back to the design of attaching to the hub using current studs and having new studs in place, it is perfectly safe but I far prefer the idea of there only being one set of bolts to tighten (wheel to hub) rather than two sets (spacer to hub, wheel to spacer).
Once the mud flaps arrive I shall install the front 23mm spacers I have!
Driving impressions!
Car has not changed in anyway, all I would say is the car has a touch more understeer and more grip in the rear, which is what you would expect when just widening the rear track by 30mm. This car as standard has slight understeer towards limits, now the understeer is a little more noticable. Once I fit the 23mm (46mm track widening) the cars balance should be a bit better than factory, with just very slight understeer, we shall see.
But for me these 15mm spacers give the perfect no poke look, they weigh less and are safer. A perfect fit for GT PP cars, only downside being they take longer to install.
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