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Did a pull, Crank sensor went out

silverbullet85

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If the wiring looks fine then a circuit code will most likely be caused by a bad sensor, what caused the sensor to mess up is something you have to look into or risk having it happen again, keep us posted
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NGOT8R

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Here is a pic of the crank sensor and trigger wheel on my 2019 Bullitt. I wanted to document what the area looks like at the business end of the crank sensor and the factory flywheel itself, to show the many avenues of escape for metal shavings.

I strongly believe it’s going to be something with the clutch, flywheel or starter, as stated. Please let us know whatever you find at the conclusion of your investigation.

1679147724520.jpeg

1679147811575.jpeg
 

KingKona

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Get an OEM sensor, not some Chinese POS.
 
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SheepDog

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Ordered a new one directly from ford!
Since your car is out of commission right now and the old crank sensor is covered in metal shavings, You might considering pulling the starter out and turning the motor over by hand to inspect the teeth on the flywheel.
 

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GrayS550

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Since your car is out of commission right now
That’s enough to make a grown man cry 😭 I don’t have any experience pulling a starter so I’ll have to research how to do that first.
 

Torinate

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Saw your other thread…

Well, @NGOT8R was correct…. Looks like some other big issues going on.
 
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GrayS550

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Update: It’s been 3 weeks and the dealer still has the car. I understand nobody there likes warranty work. I miss my car!

Dealer replaced the brand new crank sensor with a new crank sensor (don’t know why) and checked the wiring. Wiring turned out okay!
They had an issue connecting to the PCM and starting the car because I think the stock file was corrupt, or might’ve been overwritten by a previous tune that could’ve been on the car.
This week, they got it running but it’s rough, so they’re going to plug into the PCM and try to see if it throws a code.
I told them where the issue was coming from but because of warranty, they have to go by the book and do what the computer tells them to do…
 

NGOT8R

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Hopefully they will get you straightened out soon, so you can reflash your favorite tune and get back to having fun.
 

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Cobra Jet

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This thread looks similar to possibly another, but I read so many and post it's possible they just all begin to blend together.... LOL

So reading through, I would tell your Tech to check out this recent Ford TSB, more so if you do still have the stock clutch. I only say this because you're saying you had the issue immediately after a hard pull, which sort of relates to what is being documented in the TSB.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ailure-related-to-excessive-wheel-hop.186777/

The crank sensor also reads the tone ring, which relays info back to the PCM. If the tone ring is ever so slightly damaged, no matter how many new crank sensors are installed, it's not going to solve any problem, because the tone ring would need replacement. Then to determine why the tone ring was damaged requires removal of the trans anyway... which may show that the damage was caused by clutch debris.
See this thread for Tone ring info:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/p06e9-dtc-no-start.150022/page-2#post-3066365
See this thread; the first image in it, the round circular toothed object on the floor directly below the engine - that is the Tone Ring. It gets placed onto the back of the crank so the Crank Sensor can read it (also seen in the image):
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...utch-install-and-flywheel-bolt-warning.87130/


It could be something totally unrelated, but as @NGOT8R stated, if there's a decent amount of metal on the crank sensor, then there's a failure of components, whether major or minor.

EDIT:
HMMMM.... thought the thread concern was familiar... you did have another thread, which in your other images you show massive amounts of metal debris impacted that crank sensor... It's easier to stick to one thread about the issue, otherwise we're all just going in circles here trying to help with an issue we' ve already "tech'd"...


Here's your other thread with different images 😄
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/crank-relearn.186433/

(MODs can you blend the 2 threads together?)
 
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GrayS550

GrayS550

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UPDATE: As of May 1st, the car has been in the shop for its 6th week now.

Dealer called me and said the tech checked everything out with his computer and scanner and checked with his camera to go into the internals of the clutch area to get a good look at the tone ring or clutch and couldn’t find anything.
The tech wants to go further and remove the transmission and clutch to look for any damages. I was given a quote for 6 hours of work, equaling $1200 out of my pocket if warranty doesn’t cover it.

I was told they still think it might be a PCM issue and warranty won’t cover it because I had a tune on the car (it’s stock right now)… but based on the photos I posted, that’s a big metal chuck stuck to the sensor.

By the time I get my car back, I’m going to be scared to drive it hoping it doesn’t break again lol. I miss driving my car! Im getting tired of rentals! Last week I rented a 2020 Charger Scatpack and I will say, that was a fun car. Stupid heavy, but fun!
 

SheepDog

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6 weeks? They could have rebuilt the entire car by hand in that amount of time. Sounds to me like the "technician" looking at your car doesn't know what they are doing
 
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GrayS550

GrayS550

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UPDATE: Dealer just called me and told me:

Tone ring is misaligned. Not sure how it happened.
He let me know that my clutch + flywheel is aftermarket (by previous owner probably) and that the current aftermarket clutch doesn’t line up with the tone ring properly, so there was a gap, and eventually the clutch got burnt up too. There was a lot of clutch debris on the tone ring/back of the crank.

Warranty doesn’t cover it… so my new total for:
- Transmission removal
- Diagnostics
——————
$1,200

- New OEM clutch kit +flywheel
- New Crank Tone ring
- Labor
- Fees
- Taxes
——————
$3,300
___________
$4,500 total. RIP bank account.

It could’ve been more. They have a total of 15 hours of work on my car already, but he was nice enough to knock it down from 15 hours of work, to 10 hours, to save me some money.


Yeah I could’ve towed it home and did it myself on jack-stands, or towed it to another shop near me to do it for a little cheaper, but at this point I’m 6 weeks in without my car, and I want it done properly, and right so I gave them the green light. I get my car back next week!
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