There's a section just above the Engine Break In section, it says:and is not related to engine break-in (I didn't see any break-in instructions in the Ford Owner's Manual; point me to them if you've found them).
I also thought the brakes were a bit touchy, compared to my other, older cars. You'll get used to them pretty quick.
Ah, now I remember, I saw that and disregarded it; doesn't jive with all I've learned about proper brake break-in. It sounds like "brake break-in for dummies." The part about not stopping with hot pads if you can help it is the most important. Avoiding 'heavy use of the clutch' sounds like a recipe for slipping and glazing it; more helpful would be "don't slip the clutch--ever*--if you can help it and never drive with your foot on the clutch pedal." FWIW, I traded-in my '08 Bullitt at 135K miles with original clutch and brakes (the front pads had about 5/16" of material left on them). To be fair it had a lot of highway miles, but also lot of stop-and-go (I lived in the SF Bay Area).There's a section just above the Engine Break In section, it says:
Brakes and Clutch
Avoid heavy use of the brakes and clutch if possible for the first 100 mi (150 km) in town and for the first 1,000 mi (1,500 km) on freeways
I'm just babying it, including the brakes - tomorrow I will cross 1,000 miles and have a little more fun with it!
I know exactly what you mean - here's what I learned about making a very smooth, relaxed shift: on the 1-2 shift, on a backroad, rev it up in 1st, push in the clutch and watch the tach. The tach will drop to a certain rpm and hang there for a second or so (perfect shift rpm), then drop again to idle speed (too slow rpm for smooth). Whatever rpm that the computer holds the rpms at - that is the perfect rpm for shifting into the next gear - you simply release the clutch at that rpm and the shift will be smooth as a newborn's skin! If you shift sooner than that hang point, you'll get a lurch into the gear (unless you are modulating the accelerator) because the rpms will drop instantly to match the engage point. For me, learning this allows me a very smooth shifting technique/option, particularly for in traffic or with passengers.
The other thing to note, the higher your rev the car in 1st gear, the greater the # of rpms the engine has to drop before it reaches that point of holding the rpms - that equals MORE TIME to wait for the perfect shift. So it feels like an eternity when you rev high but then wait for the rpms to drop and hang so you can shift smoothly, so it seems to work out better if you are shifting around 3-4k when using this relaxed shifting technique.
The same shifting technique works in all gears, btw, it just happens very quickly in all the other transitions than 1-2, I suppose because the # of rpms to drop is significantly less than in the 1-2 shift.
does that make sense? I'm sure if you try what I suggested with the backroad and watching the tach, you'll get it very quickly.
Totally agree with that statement.Works great, but you have to be really patient for the 1-2 shift, takes what seems like an "eternity" for the RPM to reach the right point.
Mine works fine. I would suggest removing the phone completely and then re attaching it.Finally, why does Bluetooth not work when answering the phone??? I have to answer the call, then switch the sound to handset and then back to Bluetooth every time in order to get it working?
Maybe this will help you with your cell phone: Look this up on ebay "Fit For Fit Ford Mustang 2015-2019 Black Interior Side Door Storage Box Holder"Totally agree with that statement.
1500 mile update: now that I'm well past the break-in period, I've opened it up for a couple of WOT acceleration runs and even tried LC.
7000+ WOT shifts are fine for me, they feel great and the car sounds amazing. The power feels smooth all the way to redline. By the time I'm at redline in second, it's back to normal driving. I've managed .77gs of acceleration in both of those two hard launches.
LC bogged out at the lowest setting, 3500(?) Rpm. But was really sweet at 4,500 rpm on an early evening in the mid-60s.
These tires slide/skip without making much, if any, sound, and traction/stability control let's it slide a little before compensating.
Oh and yeah, first paint chip on the hood from normal driving, ugh.
Meguires ceramic hybrid seems good for easy protection, simple to apply, even on the wheels.
I took it on a 500+ mile round trip and really enjoyed it, the seats with a/c we're great and it's way quieter and more comfortable than my prior '13 GT with recaros. A/C itself is fantastic too.
I would like a better option for where to store my phone than in a cup holder.
Finally, why does Bluetooth not work when answering the phone??? I have to answer the call, then switch the sound to handset and then back to Bluetooth every time in order to get it working?
Sorry here is the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-For-Fi...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649Maybe this will help you with your cell phone: Look this up on ebay "Fit For Fit Ford Mustang 2015-2019 Black Interior Side Door Storage Box Holder"
Joe
Thanks for that link Joe - I didn't go for that item because I want to keep my phone connected to Android Auto and have the wires out of the way.
Thanks for the reminder - I deleted the bluetooth connection to the car on my phone. It worked for a while when connected to Android Auto via USB, but after a while, now this is where it gets weird, the phone and the car re-established a bluetooth connection on their own (ghost in the machine???!) and now it's required to toggle bluetooth off/on via the sync screen for phone calls to work through the car's speakers & mic.Mine works fine. I would suggest removing the phone completely and then re attaching it.
I love this magnet idea. Keeps my phone out of sight and secure.Here's what I ended up doing:
1) I removed all the rubber from one of these WizGear vent mount magnets
2) Used the included round metal mount and backing tape to stick it on the side of the console near the cupholders
3) Painted the magnet black and stuck it to the round mount
This is a very low-profile magnetic mount that is easily removable. Here's a pic - it's barely noticeable (even in this pic which i cranked up the brightness to show the mount) and holds my phone completely out of the way, while connected via USB to the car. Perfect for me.
Nice to here you are still enjoying the car. I also gets lots of looks and admiration from people. One of our DD's was in the shop last week, so I drove the BULLITT to works for two days. one of the days I was walking up to it and was admiring it. at first glance the car seems somewhat subdued, but after you look at it for a minute is exudes a quiet confidence, kind of like "walk softly and carry a big stick".Just passed 3,000 miles! I'm going out of my way to drive and loving every minute of it.
Many, many, many other drivers step up to race me all the time, at stop lights, on the highway, and even mom's in minivans, lol. Latest were a Toyota Tundra driving crazy on the highway, tailgating me, swerving in and out of different lanes, windows down with his girlfriend. I was cruising and just let it go, SoZen.
Yesterday it was a Challenger SRT, he swerved into my lane while flooring it - a jerk move, but his car did sound pretty good. Again, I let it go, SoZen.
I have pulled a .90 right hander and a .85 left hander, all good fun, but nothing like what I would have experienced on track with my '13 GT. But stock, this car is just very nice. Lol, my 13 GT was so sloppy, it'd dive badly under hard braking and was much looser too.
Quite a lot of people stop me to ask me "what is it?" a they usually mention loving the color. Numerous women have told me they love my car and the way it sounds. All good fun!
Update on the 1-2 shift:. Now I do not need to look at the tach at all, I just feel the shifter and feather touch it towards 2nd. The car will almost magnetically suck it Into 2nd when it's ready to shift, just release the clutch and go! Super smooth. Even the wife accepts the shifts as smooth.