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Damage from Cold and High Revs

Souldriver

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So this morning after a small family dispute and being late to work i let my disarray get the best of me and i made a mistake.

Seconds (maybe even just a single second) after starting the car today my foot hit the accelerator and smashed the revs up to ~7k before i got off the pedal. It was a frigid mid 30s today and was concerned that the OPG didnt immediately shatter. I check out the car quick and dreading the worst but nothing seems out of place. I let it warm a bit then go off to work.

12 hours and one long work shift later i go to head home and think hmm the car seems a bit louder but it must because its cold out (30s - barely 50s all day) so i start on home. Its a 15 minute highway drive where i average 70mph or so. I get home and think hmm the car is still loud. I pop the hood and i feel the air rushing as the fan is on pretty damn high.

I check all temps on the dash, IAT is 52, cyclinder heads are 203, and oil temp is slightly below half on the gauge. I walk inside for a second thinking maybe something needs some cooling but still notice how loud the fan is, almost competing with the krona exhaust soundwise. A few minutes pass and nothing changes, i make the decision to let it sit the night and ill see what it does tomorrow morning during the day.

Did hitting those high revs when everything was so cold damage something? Is that fan activity in this cold normal and can it be related to the revs? Is there something else i can check or look out for, i also have an nguage to help diagnose. It is also lund tuned, i out that on during mid summer.

Thanks,
Matt
 

GT Pony

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Possible that if your climate control system is on a "defrost" setting the fans will run because the AC compressor will be running. I know that's true on some makes of cars.
 

Kinjirra

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Fan is gonna run when defrost is on or whenever the engine temp gets to a certain level..regardless of temp outside.

Hitting a high rev before the oil is warm could damage the engine or shorten its life but I wouldn't sweat it. Engine just don't blow up from cold...lack of oil due to cold yes..but not just cold(baring artic temps of course lol)
 

Souldriver

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I didnt even think of the defrost becsause of how high the fan was. It was legit pushing air.

If memory serves i dont remember the defrost light being on and im not sure if anything would put it on without showing it as so. But its def worth the check tm morning.
 

Souldriver

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So i start it up today and confirm the defroster/ac is not on. To make sure nothing was stuck i turn the defroster on, then off, then turn off all climate options i hear the fan on but when i get to look i see it turned off and stopped spinning

I turn the defroster on again to see how it reacts and the fans go on, so i turn the defroater off but the fans stay on. Hmmmmm.

I turn the car off then on and the fans are now not spinning. I head to work but by the time i get there they are back at it and i hear them from the second i open the car door.

I know and have had cars with thermostats that got stuck open and i thought maybe thia is similar. But the car warms up normally and i dont know why that would affect the fan.

Im thinking the next step is contacting Lund to see if having the fan come on that early, even in mid 30temps, is part of their stratagy.
 

jasonstang

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Well your fan is gonna run when the ECU think the engine needs cooling not just for AC even in 30 degree weather if in stop and go traffic, the fan is gonna be turning on and off to cool the coolant. If the thermostat is stuck open, you will run into issues like the coolant temperature dropping when you are moving at speed such as 70mph. Or overheating if it's stuck closed. If it stays normal, it's working fine.
And no, red line once when cold is not gonna damage anything. Now if you peg it for minutes when cold it will damage something.
If Ford designed an engine this fragile, can you imagine what happens when they sell millions of these engines?
 

sublimaze

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I think it will be fine. Anytime something happens to your pride & joy (especially if "self-inflicted"), you become hypersensitive to any new noise or behavior. Don't lose sleep over it, and drive like you normally would. If something catastrophic happened, it likely would have manifested already and there would be no question.
 

Souldriver

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I think it will be fine. Anytime something happens to your pride & joy (especially if "self-inflicted"), you become hypersensitive to any new noise or behavior. Don't lose sleep over it, and drive like you normally would. If something catastrophic happened, it likely would have manifested already and there would be no question.
im thinking this is kind of what im experiencing. I normally am inside the car and cannot hear the fan but since i was checking things I was outside and noticed it whirl on.
 

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ahl395

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Revving the car up when its cold isn't good for the car necessarily, but that wont affect the operation of your fans. To be honest, They've most likely always behaved this way but you just noticed now since you think you might have damaged something.

Lots of people step on it right after starting their cars and their cars last forever. Once up to redline shouldn't kill it. And if it was going to, it most likely would have happened at that moment.

I wouldn't worry about it. If you really wanted to check you could do a compression test. But I think you're fine. My Procharged car has pegged the tach at 8k two times (reaching 8300+), once sending fireworks out the tailpipe, and the motor is still fine after all that. :thumbsup:
 

yellowragtop

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I am not sure if you resolved the Fans thing yet. but one thing I know is on a GM truck, if for any reason the Thermostat gets stuck open, the Fans will stay on, and also the a/c will not work. the computer basically notices the car is taking too long to warm up.

I know this sounds strange, but I bet if you install a new thermostat, this problem you are having might suddenly go away...
 

GritzNGravy

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My 16 Mustang had a problem with the fans coming on full speed and never shutting off till the car did. My A/C went out on my car awhile back, I found a leak at the line coming off the compressor, and I think my evaporator might be leaking also. For some stupid reason the compressor never shuts off being low on refrigerant, and it killed my compressor. The first thing I noticed though when my A/C quit is that my cooling fans would come on full bore when in defrost, and even after shutting off all climate they would be on and never shut off. The fans are very loud running full speed. I have access to a Robinar A/C machine so I filled my system up on refrigerant, and unplugged my compressor and the fans work normal now and have so for months.
 

Tommy V

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In your first post u said your cht were 203,so yea your fans are going to be on the highest setting trying to cool the car no matter what the outside temp is.
 

jasonstang

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I am not sure if you resolved the Fans thing yet. but one thing I know is on a GM truck, if for any reason the Thermostat gets stuck open, the Fans will stay on, and also the a/c will not work. the computer basically notices the car is taking too long to warm up.

I know this sounds strange, but I bet if you install a new thermostat, this problem you are having might suddenly go away...
That's not even remotely relate to his problem. His fans are turning on because the engine is hot. Now if the fan is turning on on a cold start with AC off, then there is a problem.
 

FordTechOne

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I think you are making yourself paranoid. When Ford designs these engines they are torture tested under all conditions before they are even released as pre-production prototypes:

"Besides meeting the performance goals the Coyote had to pass all of Ford's standard durability tests. These dyno sessions are incredibly brutal, always far exceeding what any rational customer would do to his engine, and occasionally surpassing what is physically possible in a car.

We observed some of this internal combustion water-boarding, and for anyone with a foot-pound of mechanical sympathy it isn't pretty. Engines run fatigue cycles equivalent to 62 Daytona 500 races. Others replicate customer drive cycles for 1,000 running hours to include 1,000 cold starts, plus hitting its peak torque and power for sustained periods. That test alone runs 100 hours a week for two and a half months.

We witnessed another torture session where the engine was run at WOT for several minutes, the headers glowing just a hint of red, then the engine shut off and after several seconds of sitting, -20 degree ice water was forced through the cooling system. Frost formed on the test rig as the engine was about frozen to death, then the ice water stopped, the engine started and after a handful of seconds idling was taken back to max rpm, max load for another heat cycle up to 225 degrees. Each complete cycle takes about 10 minutes, and the engine must survive days of these non-stop thermal shocks.

Most incredibly, "It can't be on its last legs at the end of the test," says Mike. "It can't be that it hasn't seized yet, we need to see crosshatching on the cylinders, no full-face ring wear, leak down needs to be below, oh, eight percent; it has to be very, very functional and could go do it again, quite frankly."

Be assured, this is one team, and engine, that has gone the extra mile to produce a no-excuses Mustang V-8."

http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts/m5lp-1003-2011-ford-mustang-gt-50-coyote-engine/
 

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