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DFB5.0
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I would go the route you intended. You can always try an alternative once 845 loses it's protection.
This is 845 on my Race Red. No filter.
bdm219
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I use Jescar sealant (1 coat) , Collinite 845 (2 coats) and PS Beadmaker. My advice is to apply the Jescar and Collinite then drive the car for a few days. The sun is going to bring an oily haze/residue to the surface if you applied the Collinite too thick. Once you wash the car a few days after application, it'll remove the haze then you can apply the Beadmaker. Let it cure for the 8 hours or whatever it is. I then just use Beadmaker each time after washing the car.
BigChief
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- #19
That's beautiful. Does the Jescar and Collinite apply easily?I use Jescar sealant (1 coat) , Collinite 845 (2 coats) and PS Beadmaker. My advice is to apply the Jescar and Collinite then drive the car for a few days. The sun is going to bring an oily haze/residue to the surface if you applied the Collinite too thick. Once you wash the car a few days after application, it'll remove the haze then you can apply the Beadmaker. Let it cure for the 8 hours or whatever it is. I then just use Beadmaker each time after washing the car.
bdm219
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The Jescar does, the Collinite doesn’t. You need to go super thin with the Collinite. If you think you’re applying it thin, it’s already too thick. It’s best applied with a random orbital polisher. I personally dislike applying the Collinite, but it does last quite sometime. Im trying to force my self to love it lol. I’m year two in the program haha.
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Stage_3
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If you're looking for longevity,.......don't use those. Just like their spray wax versions, they only last a certain amount of time and it's not really that long.
VIPR01
Well-Known Member
If you top off with spray wax, you are just creating an uneven build-up of wax over time. When I started using Jescar/Collinite I happened to have a couple beater college kid cars in the driveway to practice on/ see the results. Now, there are two highly paint corrected/detailed high mileage college kid beaters in my driveway that have been the result of trial/error on various products. Just like the advice stated above a little Collinite goes a long ways, and please do yourself a favor and steer clear of turtle wax...Just take your time, check out YouTube & enjoy the process.
Boostamoose
Well-Known Member
1. Two bucket method is fine I'd recommend a soap without added protection which means no wash and wax, etc. Otherwise you're just going to have more gunk in your polishing pad come step 4. I'd even recommend a strap wash like Adams or some diluted APC. You want to strip any existing protection off the car.
2. Any sort of soap or detail spray will work. Use the same soap you washed the car with in a new bucket, a detail spray, ONR. You have lots of options. It's there to stop from adding extra swirl marks, but since you are polishing afterwards don't sweat it too much. Try to get ahold of some iron remover to help with the decon process.
3. No real need to do this.
4. I would never recommend polishing by hand. Get the PC, clean/swap out pads often at least once a panel if you can.
5. Jescar is fine, and it has decent durability since it's synthetic.
6. This part is rather redundant. Essentially by putting jescar on first to a prepped surface it will have a much stronger bond. The point of jescar is to keep things off your clear, and protect it from UV rays. By trying to top it will collinite you're mixing synthetic (jescar) with organic (carnuba), and the jescar will attempt to repel it. It will eventually wear off much faster than if you just used collinite by itself on the clear. All you're really doing by applying collinite afterwards is getting a nice sheen of carnuba oils (that deep wet look) that will wash away much faster since jescar is trying to keep it from bonding which is the point of a sealant. The exception to this rule is ceramic products. They usually like to play nice with each other.
7. Not a real fan of Beadmaker. It looks great, but durability is subpar. Even more so if you top it with all those products. The store brand ceramic products are not half bad if you want a little more protection/durability than beadmaker. Meg's ceramic spray or TW Seal n' shine will leave behind some SiO2 (very marginal amount), but it will help with the protection. The shine/slickness on them is not bad either.
2. Any sort of soap or detail spray will work. Use the same soap you washed the car with in a new bucket, a detail spray, ONR. You have lots of options. It's there to stop from adding extra swirl marks, but since you are polishing afterwards don't sweat it too much. Try to get ahold of some iron remover to help with the decon process.
3. No real need to do this.
4. I would never recommend polishing by hand. Get the PC, clean/swap out pads often at least once a panel if you can.
5. Jescar is fine, and it has decent durability since it's synthetic.
6. This part is rather redundant. Essentially by putting jescar on first to a prepped surface it will have a much stronger bond. The point of jescar is to keep things off your clear, and protect it from UV rays. By trying to top it will collinite you're mixing synthetic (jescar) with organic (carnuba), and the jescar will attempt to repel it. It will eventually wear off much faster than if you just used collinite by itself on the clear. All you're really doing by applying collinite afterwards is getting a nice sheen of carnuba oils (that deep wet look) that will wash away much faster since jescar is trying to keep it from bonding which is the point of a sealant. The exception to this rule is ceramic products. They usually like to play nice with each other.
7. Not a real fan of Beadmaker. It looks great, but durability is subpar. Even more so if you top it with all those products. The store brand ceramic products are not half bad if you want a little more protection/durability than beadmaker. Meg's ceramic spray or TW Seal n' shine will leave behind some SiO2 (very marginal amount), but it will help with the protection. The shine/slickness on them is not bad either.
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