Cooling Mod?

[NGOT8R]

Hmm maybe it’ll work for mine too then. It said 2018 and up when I ordered it. I’m actually paying someone to supercharge my car and do all the other mods and dyno tune it. Jackson on here said he removed some wall behind the battery and did it through that. I don’t have the tools or the time to do this myself

I hear ya. If I didn’t have my tranny and Intake manifold out of the car, I would not be doing this mod. It would be like working in Braille doing it any other way. I’m going to do their Head Oiling Mod too while I’m back there.

 

[NGOT8R]

Okay, I’m at the point to where I’m ready to install mine. Unfortunately, there are no updated directions on MMR’s site for the 5.0 Coyote engine. I’m going to try and get this installed, either today or tomorrow. I’ll let you guys know how it goes.

 

[Angrey]

Okay, I’m at the point to where I’m ready to install mine. Unfortunately, there are no updated directions on MMR’s site for the 5.0 Coyote engine. I’m going to try and get this installed, either today or tomorrow. I’ll let you guys know how it goes.

Put the fitting in the freezer for a good while, it'll help when trying to insert the press fit.

 

[NGOT8R]

Put the fitting in the freezer for a good while, it'll help when trying to insert the press fit.

Copy that. I put them in the freezer last night. This morning I‘ve been working on removing the freeze plugs and let me say; “what a PITA it has been.“ With the transmission out and clear access to the freeze plugs, ish still went awry. The plugs decided they wanted to do their own thing and went completely into both heads, causing me to go into a mode that I refer to as “Panic at the Disco!” After about an hour and a half of thinking of every way possible to get them out, I had an idea to modify a plastic trim panel tool, which I used along with a flathead screwdriver and carefully pried them out. Unfortunately, both plugs caused gouges in two spots in the bores. To,address,this issue, I carefully sanded down the gouges in both bores with 150 grit paper, followed by 1500 grit paper. I cant imagine anyone doing this without causing some sort of gouging in the bores because the pugs don't just fall out, they have to be forced out. Needless to say, this is why MMR mentions the use of high temp RTV sealant if this occurs. Just FYI for those who will be going down this road. I have everything prepped and ready, except I’ll need to purchase the aforementioned RTV sealant and wrap things up. Lastly, to those who have been able to do this with the engine in the car, I tip my hat to you guys, because I would never attempt this.

 

[NGOT8R]

I forgot to mention that the freeze plugs are very strong (stronger than the bores In the heads), hence the gouges created by them upon removal from my heads.

I’m not trying to scare anyone by sharing my experience. I just want to let it be known that if you encounter any of what I did, it will be impossible to get them out, sand the bores and apply RTV sealant to the bores and cooling mod stand-offs. With the transmission in place.

 

[thelostotter]

I can’t imagine doing this in the car. I did them with the heads sitting on the work bench and it was still difficult. I scratched the bores like you did and sanded them smooth. Used a tiny bit of Permatex Ultra Black on the o-ring and it’s been sealed perfectly for two years.

 

[Angrey]

I almost posted to simply spin/turn them and then use a pair of pliers to yank them overwise they'll enter the head. Crazy that Ford doesn't put a rim on them from preventing them going all the way into the head. It would be like a dumbass who designs a manhole cover that's the same diameter as the hole, so the cover can fall in on those working inside.

Don't even get me started on engine dowels at the front of the motor. The fit is so tight that you have to beat on it with a hammer to get it to fully seat and that causes the dowel to mushroom slightly (and no, beating on it with a rubber mallet or a high durometer mallet doesn't move it). Yeah, i've cussed Ford out many times.

 

[NGOT8R]

I can’t imagine doing this in the car. I did them with the heads sitting on the work bench and it was still difficult. I scratched the bores like you did and sanded them smooth. Used a tiny bit of Permatex Ultra Black on the o-ring and it’s been sealed perfectly for two years.

I was gonna say, even having the engine out of the car doesn’t mean it’s gonna be a walk in the park. I should be good to go now. Just need to pick up the RTV sealant and get on with it.

 

[K4fxd]

Don't even get me started on engine dowels at the front of the motor.

crocus cloth

 

[K4fxd]

I still think the center of the connecting hose is just going to trap air.

 

[NGOT8R]

I still think the center of the connecting hose is just going to trap air.

I don’t know whether that’s true or false. I only know that this has been a mod that I’ve had on my radar ever since 1998. I knew it was difficult to do with the tranny in the car, so I shelved the idea until now, when I had to remove my tranny. I hope it does what MMR says it does because it was a PIMA to do.

 

[K4fxd]

I hope it does what MMR says it does because it was a PIMA to do.

If it doesn't at least it won't hurt anything. If I was doing it I'd add a Tee to the balance hose and Tee it into a heater hose.

 

[NGOT8R]

If it doesn't at least it won't hurt anything. If I was doing it I'd add a Tee to the balance hose and Tee it into a heater hose.

Is there any known documentation to show that this is an improvement over the original design?

 

[K4fxd]

Is there any known documentation to show that this is an improvement over the original design?

None just what my mechanic/engineer mind thinks would work.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Is there any known documentation to show that this is an improvement over the original design?

Is there any known documentation on the original design?