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Completing suspension list before boxing day sales. Need some help with my suspension list

1MeanZ

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If I can step in here and put in a plug for Steeda I'll do so. I'm not new to cars, auto-x, road racing and performance handling at all, but was new to the S550 platform. After hours and hours spent researching, I ended up just going with all Steeda components. Everything works together, they offered tech assistance after the sale, and gave me a SCREAMIN deal when I called up and ordered everything all at once as a package deal. The car performs fantastically well, I'm super happy with it.

So if it means anything, I suggest keep it simple, call Steeda and let them put a package deal together for you. Their products have a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser, they are easy to communicate with and they do a good job of following up when I had a question.

I did springs, struts/shocks, sway bars, stop the hop kit, camber plates, bump steer correction kit, and billet rear shock mounts. Transformed the car.
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K4fxd

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When you call ask for Mike D. He one of their suspension engineers.

I'll add steeda goes over the top with customer service. Mike talked me out of buying the RLCA bearings, said they are for drag racing and a poly would be better for the type of driving I do.
 
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Nate_V8

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Alright I will call them then and ask for Mike D. If they give me a screaming deal I will be very pleased instead of waiting for sales. They also sell the bilsteins I want.

After researching about bearings vs poly for the rlca, yes I agree that poly does sound best for me. Read a few reviews saying it's around 75-80% of what a bearing can bring but without the harsher ride and longer life.

So why is it worth it to use bearings for the front but not the rear?
 

shogun32

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This is the first over heard of kdt943. How is it better than the steeda IRS bushings? An actual noticeable improvement?
the Whiteline 'insert' is made of softer material and thus doesn't add to NVH by way of the IRS. Steeda and BMR's materials are noticeably more rigid and thus pass on vibration.
And no, the metal tube with the 'ridges' is not interfered with.
 
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K4fxd

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the Whiteline 'insert' is made of softer material and thus doesn't add to NVH by way of the IRS. Steeda and BMR's materials are noticeably more rigid and thus pass on vibration.
Are you talking about the diff bushings or the IRS bushings?

The steeda IRS support bushings add ZERO NVH
 

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shogun32

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Nate_V8

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Well I called steeda today. I don't know if it mattered that's it's the weekend but I didn't really learn too much. The guy said the Ford PP toe links are a slight upgrade and their toe links are better because they are adjustable...ok...He did say the rear spherical aren't worth it for a DD.

For the front he said if I get their front control arms with the extended ball joints I would need the bumpsteer kit I should have inquired which FLCA come with he extended ball joints, slightly confusing. He mentioned about the geometry not really being affected with the .5" drop but with the extended ball joints the geometry changes and then I would want the bumpsteer. Does that sound right.



I didn't ask for Mike D, I was expecting someone to ask what department I was looking for or a menu but it just went straight to the guy I talked to. Also I tried fishing for some kind of deal or for him to offer me a package saying I have a bunch of parts to buy but nothing other than watch for Christmas sales. Ehhh. I was wasn't too wowed here, pretty much like any other standard place I've called.



I think I was expecting too much after the build up about how awesome they are to call lol
 

K4fxd

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Should have asked for Mike. The people answering the phone are sales people.
 

Adamone92

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Well I called steeda today. I don't know if it mattered that's it's the weekend but I didn't really learn too much. The guy said the Ford PP toe links are a slight upgrade and their toe links are better because they are adjustable...ok...He did say the rear spherical aren't worth it for a DD.

For the front he said if I get their front control arms with the extended ball joints I would need the bumpsteer kit I should have inquired which FLCA come with he extended ball joints, slightly confusing. He mentioned about the geometry not really being affected with the .5" drop but with the extended ball joints the geometry changes and then I would want the bumpsteer. Does that sound right.



I didn't ask for Mike D, I was expecting someone to ask what department I was looking for or a menu but it just went straight to the guy I talked to. Also I tried fishing for some kind of deal or for him to offer me a package saying I have a bunch of parts to buy but nothing other than watch for Christmas sales. Ehhh. I was wasn't too wowed here, pretty much like any other standard place I've called.



I think I was expecting too much after the build up about how awesome they are to call lol
Have you tried @LethalPerformance ? I mostly talk to @Logan@Lethal but they all can help you out. Ive always had great customer support with them.
 

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Nate_V8

Nate_V8

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Have you tried @LethalPerformance ? I mostly talk to @Logan@Lethal but they all can help you out. Ive always had great customer support with them.
I'm good for now. Lethal doesn't have many of the parts I want (from steeda). I'm going to call again and ask for Mike D, hopefully he is there next week.
 
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Nate_V8

Nate_V8

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nope, not remotely the same thing.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/lethal-performance-s550-extreme-diff-bolt-upgrade-kit.html
what you really need are the thin-wall tubes.
Interesting. I'm not familiar with all the bolts and bushings under my car. Hopefully i word this right.
Do those rear diff bolts/sheath replace any of the bolts I used to install the steeda IRS bushings/alignment dowels?

I ask because when I put the last subframe bolt in (big blue one) when doing the IRS bushings and dowels, it sort of left a bad taste in my mouth. I started the bolt by hand, got about 70% of the way in and then it got REALLY tight. I managed to get it all the way in (crapping myself along the way) and torqued but I'm wary of touching it again haha.
 

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He mentioned about the geometry not really being affected with the .5" drop but with the extended ball joints the geometry changes and then I would want the bumpsteer. Does that sound right.
0.5 drop - no bumpsteer, no extended ball joint.
1" drop - yes to both.

putting in a big bushing or bearing in the RLCA is for precision and accuracy, which for a DD is beside the point but if 'just DD' is your metric then the stock wet-noodle suspension and 245 section tires is plenty fine too.
 

shogun32

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Do those rear diff bolts/sheath replace any of the bolts I used to install the steeda IRS bushings/alignment dowels?
no. Diff = differential. IRS = IRS frame. Look at the underside of your car. There's a big-ass steel frame 5 feet wide by 3 feet long with 4 major anchor points. That's the IRS. The diff pumpkin is suspended at 4 points, 2 forward, 2 rear smack in the middle of the IRS frame. The rear bushing bolt holes is what the thin-wall collars fix.
 

shogun32

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I started the bolt by hand, got about 70% of the way in and then it got REALLY tight. I managed to get it all the way in (crapping myself along the way) and torqued but I'm wary of touching it again haha.
because you were supposed to keep all 4 'loose' and get the 4 corners ALIGNED before torquing stuff down.
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